front suspension instantly bombed out, what happened?

kolohejenMarkVIII

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air suspension bombed out in front

I had my two front struts, relay, and compressor replaced. I was driving home from the shop when my front suspension bottomed out as I was making a turn. What could have happened?
 
I just had my two front struts, relay, and compressor replaced. I was driving home from the shop, when my front suspension bombed out all at once while making a turn. What could have happened?
 
i don't know, but my car is all jacked up right now even tho it's sensor lowere - i really need to replace my compressor, it doesn't vent at all.
 
kolohejenMarkVIII said:
I just had my two front struts, relay, and compressor replaced. I was driving home from the shop, when my front suspension bombed out all at once while making a turn. What could have happened?
One of your solenoids on top of the bag might have broken or popped off. I'd check both sides. They are on a bracket next to the bag.
 
67Continental said:
i don't know, but my car is all jacked up right now even tho it's sensor lowere - i really need to replace my compressor, it doesn't vent at all.




That would'nt be the compressor. The solenoids are what you need, as they release pressure from the bags and send it back through the dryer assy up front.

Mike
 
94m5 said:
That would'nt be the compressor. The solenoids are what you need, as they release pressure from the bags and send it back through the dryer assy up front.

Mike


That is not totally true either. The entire system vents THRU the compressor. So, if the vent solenoid inside the compressor is shot, or the connections are bad, the whole system will NOT vent.

There are a few things you can do to check to see if the vent solenoid for the system is fine. Of course turn off the switch for the suspension in the trunk first when trying to diagnose any problems.

1) Disconnect the wiring harness for the compressor and check to see if there is any corrosion on ANY of the terminals, but the ones you are most concerned about for the vent solenoid are the Black and the White wires (on the compressor side), or the Pink and Gray wires (on the harness that brings power to the compressor).....ANY corrosion and the connector should be replaced.

2) If no corrosion then you can check to see if there is an open in the circuit by checkin the resistance between the two wires on the harness that brings power to the compressor the Pink and Gray wires. Check to see if there is 19 - 24 ohms. If not, compressor needs to be replaced.

3) If there is between 19 - 24 ohms, then you have to check for an open between the Gray wire and ground. If you get an open, then you have to chase that wire to find where the open is.....or replace the whole assembly (could be costly, but who knows).

4) If you get ANY continuity (anything but infinity) then you have to leave the connector for the compressor disconnected, and pull the passenger kick panel and disconnect the Gray connector on the Suspension Control Module (not the black one) and check the Pink wire in the connector to ground. You should NOT have any voltage, if so, search out the short to ground.

5) If you do not get any voltage you have to check the continuity of the Pink wire in the Gray connector on the Suspension Control Module. Check the Pink wire to ground, if you get a short you have to chase that wire for the short to ground.

6) If you do not get a short then you have to check for continuity between the Pink wire on the Suspension Control Module and the Pink on the harness that brings the power to the compressor. If you get a measurement of infinity then you have to search out the open in that specific wire....or again replace that harness.

7) If you get any measurement other than infinity then you have to check the pulse from the Suspension Control Module to the compressor. But, to do this you have to have the tester from Ford to run the diagnostics for the suspension control module. What I would suggest is if you can not find a problem by now, then to take it to the Stealership to see what the deal is. Most likely it is the vent soleniod in the compressor.

Hope this helps a bit.
:Beer
 
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MonsterMark said:
One of your solenoids on top of the bag might have broken or popped off. I'd check both sides. They are on a bracket next to the bag.

OR, one of the 2 o-rings that make a seal for the solenoids are out of place, have dirt on them, or are missing/cracked and are causing a leak. What I would do is to take it back to the place that did the work and tell them to fix it.

I would have to guess that that is most likely your problem. The o-rings on the solenoids, or the solenoids themselves. Have the place that did the work check it out. You paid them for it to work, not to fall apart down the road.
:Beer
 
67Continental said:
i am consistently impressed with the detailed help you give to us this site, ray.


It helps to have the knowledge, and where to look it up at.....lol.

I not only have an EVTM manual, but I have a CD for EVERY year Mark VIII, and I have the 'Bible'....as I like to call it. The paperback manual for my old green car which was a '95. Not only all of that, I have the parts list, and I have a schematic for a '94. So, I have a plethora of info to give out....when I can.
:Beer
 
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1wykdmk8 said:
It helps to have the knowledge, and where to look it up at.....lol.

I not only have an EVTM manual, but I have a CD for EVERY year Mark VIII, and I have the 'Bible'....as I like to call it. The paperback manual for my old green car which was a '95. Not only all of that, I have the parts list, and I have a schematic for a '94. So, I have a plethora of info to give out....when I can.
:Beer

My first Mod for my 93 was the shop manual! Now to only be able to understand the whole thing but is sure helps. I also have the CD for my 95, And a nice gift from Scott9050 the CD to 93 - 94 for all Ford thanks Scott. I like the textbook better. Let me know if anyone needs a copy.

Then again to have the electrical knowledge that Ray already posesses (no I didn't say he was posessed but.... :N ) It is guys like Ray who make this site great - a whore house of knowledge! Ooops I mean wearhouse. Then those average Joe's on this site who come accross a great idea as they search the net trying to find answers to problems to help save taking the car to the shop.
 
where did you get the struts from
did they come from the dealler or after market
 
I would take a look at the height sensors. It is possible that the shop doing the repairs did not reconnect the height sensors causeing the front of the car to drop. Check that first, and then let me know. Be patient and we will figure this thing out.

Thanks,
Strutmasters Team
 
Is manufacturer responsible for damages from faulty parts?

bigdog1279 said:
where did you get the struts from
did they come from the dealler or after market
I got it from Suncore Industries Incorporated (Florida) and had them installed by the dealership mechanics here in Hawaii. The gentleman that sold it to me said there is a 12 month, 12,000 mile warranty on the parts. The towing guy showed me that the bag was completely separated on the top of the strut. There was no tear in the bag, and the clamp was loose. I believe it was a faulty part. Thank God it didn't happen on the freeway. If it did, I'd probably be dead right now.
The impact of the drop bent my crossmember on the engine mount. I'm worried that there might be more damage to my car. My father said that a bent crossmember could cause alignment and steering problems. I'm waiting for the final diagnosis on my car before I call the company for a replacement part. I think they should be responsible for the extra labor, a new part, any damages from the drop to the concrete, the towing and the rental car. I called Strutmasters for advice. Strutmasters told me I might have to get a lawyer to get reimbursed. When my car is diagnosed, I'm having my father talk to the company. I don't want anyone trying to pull the wool over my eyes due to being a girl.
Has anyone been in this type of situation? Any suggestions?
 
kolohejenMarkVIII said:
Has anyone been in this type of situation? Any suggestions?

Not exactly the same mechanical issue, but I once sued Valvoline Instant Oil Change for a new motor for $1500 b/c they screwed the filter on crooked and the oil leaked out and ruined it. I won after a 20-minute trial in small claims court. I don't know how relevant my story is, but the question is how much damage is there in $$$, and what is the small claims limit where you live? If it doesn't exceed the limit, you could probably go in there without a lawyer but with the evidence and win.

My advice: if you decide to sue, don't let the defendants get their hands on any evidence, damaged parts, etc. Valvoline tried to get me to give them the damaged filter so they could send it back for testing. I said no and sued them instead.
 
Before you go assuming it was a faulty part, be sure the mechaic installed everything correctly.

This is EXACTLY why many shops wont install YOUR OWN parts. Now, everyone who had a hand in this is questionably liable, and I assure you, none of them will assume responsibility.

the strut company will say the mechanic did it. The mechanic will say the part was defective.

I dont know how a mechanic could have damaged the part, but knowing what kind of people work on cars at a dealership level these days, nothing surprises me anymore.

Just be glad you arent hurt, the car survived, and hopefully you can get your money back, and go with a reliable supplier.

if the car bottomed out hard enough to tweak the K-member, you would have a destroyed oil pan, exhaust and possibly a tranny pan, radiator, and power steering lines(all of which run underneath the car). I am going to assume when they said "bent cross-member at the engine mount" they meant it has some signs of contact with the ground, but I doubt it tweaked it so much as to cause severe alignment problems.

Keep us posted. Hopefully "sun industries" sees this thread, and makes good on their problem. if not, screw them. They deserve a bad rap.

reason # 27 I went with a coil conversion.
 
fossten said:
Not exactly the same mechanical issue, but I once sued Valvoline Instant Oil Change for a new motor for $1500 b/c they screwed the filter on crooked and the oil leaked out and ruined it. I won after a 20-minute trial in small claims court. I don't know how relevant my story is, but the question is how much damage is there in $$$, and what is the small claims limit where you live? If it doesn't exceed the limit, you could probably go in there without a lawyer but with the evidence and win.

My advice: if you decide to sue, don't let the defendants get their hands on any evidence, damaged parts, etc. Valvoline tried to get me to give them the damaged filter so they could send it back for testing. I said no and sued them instead.


i tried to do exactky the same thing for exactly the same reason, but it didn't work out :(
 
67Continental said:
i tried to do exactky the same thing for exactly the same reason, but it didn't work out :(

Did your filter look damaged? Mine had a crease in the rubber gasket that made it obvious. Plus, I had an affidavit from a mechanic shop indicating their opinion which helped me. Showed both to the judge. JUDGMENT PLAINTIFF. CASE CLOSED.
 
They are replacing the part and reimbursing me $100 towards my costs, but that won't cover nearly everything. The manager said that about 1% of those parts fail, and I just happen to be the lucky person. He said since I got the part for wholesale price, there isn't much more he could do. He was really nice about it, but I'm still left with the cost of 1/3 the rental car, the towing charge, and the labor to put the new part in again. The dealership was going to reimburse me for the rental and the towing until they found that it was a parts failure. :Bang
BlackIceLSC said:
Before you go assuming it was a faulty part, be sure the mechaic installed everything correctly.

This is EXACTLY why many shops wont install YOUR OWN parts. Now, everyone who had a hand in this is questionably liable, and I assure you, none of them will assume responsibility.

the strut company will say the mechanic did it. The mechanic will say the part was defective.

I dont know how a mechanic could have damaged the part, but knowing what kind of people work on cars at a dealership level these days, nothing surprises me anymore.

Just be glad you arent hurt, the car survived, and hopefully you can get your money back, and go with a reliable supplier.

if the car bottomed out hard enough to tweak the K-member, you would have a destroyed oil pan, exhaust and possibly a tranny pan, radiator, and power steering lines(all of which run underneath the car). I am going to assume when they said "bent cross-member at the engine mount" they meant it has some signs of contact with the ground, but I doubt it tweaked it so much as to cause severe alignment problems.

Keep us posted. Hopefully "sun industries" sees this thread, and makes good on their problem. if not, screw them. They deserve a bad rap.

reason # 27 I went with a coil conversion.
 

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