Fuel Filter on 1997 STS

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97blacksts

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where is it and how easy is it to change? am i better off just going to a mechanic that will give me a good deal to replace it, or is it a simple fix. I'm not even sure if the fuel filter is the problem i'm having, but its worth a shot. any info would be great.
thanks.
 
Just make sure you relieve the pressure in the fuel rail before removing it. You can relieve the pressure by pressing in the pin on the shraeder valve. You should put a rag underneath it while youre doing it to soak up the fuel that will spray out.
 
does anyone know if theres a fuel limiter that goes on if theres a problem with the engine. the service engine soon light came on, and i know some vehicles that have a problem wiht the engine and if the light comes on, it will limit the fuel from getting to the engine so you cna't drive it hard or fast, but give you enough to get around (to the mechanic)
 
It's a good thing that the SES light came on because that means that there is a code stored in the system. I'm not sure about there being a fuel limiter though. The code will be the best place to start in your diagnosis of the problem. In cadillacs you can retrieve the codes without a scanner tool.

HOW TO "ENTER" DIAGNOSTIC MODE
To enter diagnostic mode, proceed as follows:

Turn ignition "ON." Engine can be either OFF or RUNNING.

For cars equipped with the Digital Instrument Panel Display (Digital IPC):
Simultaneously press the "OFF and "WARMER" (red) buttons on climate control center (CCC) until all display segments (IPC and CCP) are illuminated

For cars equipped with the Analog Instrument Panel Display (Analog IPC): Simultaneously press on the Climate Control Panel (CCP) the "OFF" and "PASS WARMER" (up arrow) buttons.

After the segment display test, the driver message center displays all set DTC, current and history, in the following order:

PCM DTC
IPC DTC
ACM DTC
SDM DTC
TCS DTC
PZM DTC
IRC DTC
RFA DTC
CCP DTC
MSM DTC
MMM DTC
PHN DTC
The RSS, CCP, MSM, MMM and PHN DTC appear only on vehicles equipped with these options. Press the FAN DOWN button in order to bypass the DTC display.

On the OBD II cars, the prefixes you'll see are: "IP" for the IPC instrument panel; "AC" for air conditioning module; "TC" for traction control; "RS" for the road suspension system; "SD" for the air bags; "PZ" for the body control module; "CC" for the cell phone; "RF" for the integrated radio system.



HOW TO "EXIT" DIAGNOSTIC MODE
To exit the diagnostic mode anytime during the test, depress the "ECON" or "DEFOG" button, or turn the ignition switch "OFF."

This was copied and pasted from this page: http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/cadidiag.html

After you get all of the codes you can post them up here and I'll help you with them.
 
i check the code yesterday and got PCM P0131
looked it up online and found that it's Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1

anyway, now i've got even worse news. I was driving the car last night, and it was driving really :q:q:q:qty, but i was almost where i needed to get to, so i figured I could make it there. all of the sudden on the dash about three lights came one (along with the SES light that was already on). the airbag, ABS and traction control lights all came on. and then on my DIC it said Traction Control Limited (something along those lines) and Service Charging System. my car made it another block going about 30 km/h and then died. I had to push it down a hill and park it in the parking lot. i called up my girlfriend and got her to come and give me a boost, hoping it was the battery, but that did nothing.

i'm so pissed off right now about this car. i'm not exactly sitting on a lot of cash right now and i'm pretty sure i'm going to have to sell it. anyone have any idea whats up?
 
You have a bad alternator, or the connections to the alternator corroded away. Most likely the alternator rather than the connections though. All the lights came up because the modules weren't getting enough power. You were experiencing power loss because the ICM wasn't getting enough juice at higher RPM's, and you couldn't start it after because the aternator failed and the battery took over until it died.


When you get a new one, make sure that they test it before installing it. I've had some that were bad right off the shelf.
 
Krashed989 said:
You have a bad alternator, or the connections to the alternator corroded away. Most likely the alternator rather than the connections though. All the lights came up because the modules weren't getting enough power. You were experiencing power loss because the ICM wasn't getting enough juice at higher RPM's, and you couldn't start it after because the aternator failed and the battery took over until it died.


When you get a new one, make sure that they test it before installing it. I've had some that were bad right off the shelf.
Click to expand...

Check the battery as well. If you end up replacing the Alternator, its wise to also replace the battery. Ensure the battery and alternator cables are not corroded as well.
 
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