Fuel pump replacement instructions and/or shop manual

[hillfolk]

Hi all,
I am having a hell of a time getting info and changing the delivery fuel pump on the 2000 LS. I have determined for sure that the pump is the issue. I have tried to remove the fuel lines from the top of the unit with no luck. As I understand it, I should squeeze the two tangs and lift the tube straight up to remove. The tubes don't want to move.
I also need to know how to remove the whole assembly from the tank. I purchased a shop manual online but am quite disappointed in it as it lacks sufficient detail.
I sure could use advice on the fuel pump or a decent manual available as I don't want to pay the dealer to change it if I can do it myself. Below is a pic of the two lines.
Thanks in advance, Dave A

 

[AmsterDutch]

Hi all,
I am having a hell of a time getting info and changing the delivery fuel pump on the 2000 LS. I have determined for sure that the pump is the issue. I have tried to remove the fuel lines from the top of the unit with no luck. As I understand it, I should squeeze the two tangs and lift the tube straight up to remove. The tubes don't want to move.
I also need to know how to remove the whole assembly from the tank. I purchased a shop manual online but am quite disappointed in it as it lacks sufficient detail.
I sure could use advice on the fuel pump or a decent manual available as I don't want to pay the dealer to change it if I can do it myself. Below is a pic of the two lines.
Thanks in advance, Dave A
View attachment 828568211

You're right it's a PITA to get those fuel lines out and worse yet plastic is fragile and breaks easily so its of most importance to take a big deep breath and go slow....you don't want to break those lines because its not a cheap fix the fuel line is like $70-$90 dollars not to mention lowering the tank to replace it...I went slow and used a Tongue-and-groove pliers when squeezing those two tangs inward, then pull the lines straight up with a pliers but don't squeeze to hard because they will break..... if you can pull them without using a pliers you'd be better off...if all else fails ....walk away if your patience wears thin and come back to it later when cooled down ha ha ha it's a real bugger this fuel pump assembly design but remember at least you don't have to drop the tank it's nice that it's under the seat...all my best

 

[hillfolk]

Yup, have tried just like you said.......even with the walking away and coming back ha ha. Still no luck. Thanks for the reply! Once I get those off, I am still not sure how to get the whole assembly out of the tank to disassemble and change the pump.

 

[TooManyToys]

Our '03 uses a different plumbing design, with the cross over lines in the tank and only one up top. This SAE style connector is always difficult as the O-Rings tend to develop adhesion to the lines. Sometimes a little twist can break the adhesion.

As far as getting the pump out, the locking ring has to be removed, another interesting endeavor. Then the pump assembly has to be maneuvered out of the bung, without damaging the float.

I would just be certain that it's really the pump. On the '03 you have the pump, the REM that controls the pump, and the fuel pressure regulator that informs the REM. It was an interesting sort out for me.

This tool I made for the tank ring, but you can buy them if hammering with a flat bar isn't your style. When you reinstall, lube the tank O-Ring and tank Ring with petroleum jelly to make it easier to install, and watch that you're not cross-threading.

Pics for the Jet Pump side. I also marked the ring and base so I would know when I retightened it I was to the factory torque.

 

[hillfolk]

Thanks for the info! I know it is the pump for sure as have metered the plug right at the pump connection and get 12 volts when the key is turned on. I have had the ring off with no problem. I am still unclear as to how the whole assy is mounted in the tank.

 

[joegr]

Thanks for the info! I know it is the pump for sure as have metered the plug right at the pump connection and get 12 volts when the key is turned on. I have had the ring off with no problem. I am still unclear as to how the whole assy is mounted in the tank.

The +12V is via a relay. It's the negative (ground) to the motor that is PWM driven by the REM. You have to measure for voltage between the positive and negative terminal to the fuel pump. Just measuring for 12V to ground tells you almost nothing.

 

[TooManyToys]

Yep, PWM controlled off the negative side. That's why I asked and it's a moderated circuit.