Gen 2 deck lid lite "Glitch" ballast needed quickly!

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wkokaneeman

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I have been posting on another string about my gen 2 deck lid lite inop problem, and understand that more than likely, I need a ballast to get the deck lid neon lite bar working again. I know the way to go is the Glitch model, and I know he's passed away, and buying a used model off eBay might not be the smartest thing to do.
Can someone help me nail one of these down, soon, so I can get it working again?
I've had this car for 61 months, and never knew us was supposed to lite up. just a bit embarrassing I would have to say. any help on this is very greatly appreciated!
I also have a gen 1 with the same problem, and have replaced 4 bulbs(168's), and I understand that there are actually 6 bulbs. is that true? I also have been told that it may be a wire problem by the right side trunk hinge. any help on both of my cars with this problem will be greatly appreciated! My gen 1 has only 38,000 original mile on it, and right now, this is the only thing not working properly, that I have figured out, up to this point. maybe more has time goes forward.
I did gave a problem with my power antenna in the gen 1 car, but I got a used antenna out of a 94 donor car, installed it, and it works great!
Any help would be awesome. Thanks!
 
remember Glitch has passed away. i had heard his wife was still making them, but i would email first to be sure.
 
Glitch ballast is still available, but there is another e-bay version you should check out, it has a metal body versus the glitch plastic body, and to me looks sturdy, its 160$ right now on sale, just type in mark viii rear ballast, or mark viii ballast, should come up, it has free shipping too.
 
Travisg32v said:
Glitch ballast is still available, but there is another e-bay version you should check out, it has a metal body versus the glitch plastic body, and to me looks sturdy, its 160$ right now on sale, just type in mark viii rear ballast, or mark viii ballast, should come up, it has free shipping too.
Click to expand...

Why spend $160 on something that may or may not be reliable. Glitch ballasts are proven to be good reliable units and are $60 cheaper. They don't need to be metal, the plastic holds up fine. I have one in my CE for two problem free years now.
 
My Great 8;

I ordered the "Glitch" ballast on Friday. I anxiously await it's arrival! the car is down for at least a week and a half right now. my air ride system pump failed on my gen 2, 98 LSC on the way home from work on Saturday. I already have it out of the car, and on it's way to Eddie at American Air Suspension.
And on my gen 1 car, I was talking to a few folks here on the forums, and through facebook late last week, and I got in contact with a gentleman in NY, that gave me an idea on where, and what to look for, and on Saturday when I got home from work, I disconnected the deck lid light connector, behind & above where the air ride system on/off switch is located in the trunk, and found the black ground wire, came disconnected from the metal pin, in the connector. so my neighbor and I soldered it back together, put 6 new bulbs in, and it is now working great. it looks awesome! the way it should. thanks for your input!
 
So I'm trying to install the glitch on my light. the instruction don't tell me wether I'm supposed to solder back on the ground wire, that screws to the trunk lid, where the connector, connects to the other connector on the car end?
And what the heck do you do with these frickin mesh wires on the light? I think it says something about taping them up, so has not to touch metal. And what about the other gronnd wire on the light , that runs into the keyhole area if the light, that also was connected the the wire mesh wires, that all connected to the side of ghe ballast mounting plate? man, the instructions don't really touch on these questions. Thanks for the help!
 
Ok, so now, after replacing the ballast with the Glitch ballast, my taillights don't work? And by the way, the deck lid light isn't working either! They were before doing the ballast switch. I looked in the owners manual to see which fuse it might be, but it doesn't show anything for a taillight fuse, and what position. The 30 amp fuse under the hood, for the deck lid light is good.the taillights were working before the ballast switch.
The brake lights, and emergency lights are working. The connector for the deck lid light, looks to be in excellent shape. The keyhole ground wire, I ran straight to the deck lid ground wire screw, next to the deck lid light connector. What's up?
 
Guess again. both those fuses are good. it has to be something else. all I have done is replace the inverter. my tail lights now don't work, and the deck lid light does not work. right now, all I want to do is get the tail lights working, so when I get the air rude pump back, and hopefully, the bags will pump up, I can at least drive the car again.
 
I was going to say double check your work but that is not the case. I would start over and not skip a step or say I know I did that. DO the job again and I am sure you will find your problem.
Start at step 1 and begin again. You are a human and we all make mistakes. If a ground came from one point then put it back where it came from. Do not let frustration get the best of you.
 
LSC Hunter;

You are correct. it was a blown #31 fuse. I repulled it, looked at it, decided to look at it on top of a high intensity light with a magnifying glass, and sure has heck, it was bad.
The first time I looked at it this morning, it was dark, and the break in the fuse was so small, I couldn't see it. Taillights and deck lid light are now both working! now I just have to wait for my air ride pump to arrive, reinstall it, with the 2 new front struts I just replaced on Monday, and hop it raises the car, then l will be good again! fingers crossed!
 
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