Gen1 headlight help

JP...guess what? All the folks who swapped in HID's into their gen 1 dont have to mess with the multi-function switch now...seems like this will also eliminate the "hot re-flash" danger of shortening the HID lifespan.

Nice find buddy. I am sure most folks would much rather install one of these, instead of re-pinning the MF switch.
 
BlackIceLSC said:
JP...guess what? All the folks who swapped in HID's into their gen 1 dont have to mess with the multi-function switch now...seems like this will also eliminate the "hot re-flash" danger of shortening the HID lifespan.

Nice find buddy. I am sure most folks would much rather install one of these, instead of re-pinning the MF switch.
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Exactly my thoughts as well. Right now it is wired for 9005 bulbs, but there would be no reason it wouldn't work as well for HID retrofitting(hint, hint). :Beer
 
My question is, dose that wire it in series or parallel? If its in series you are going to have a voltage drop over both the bulbs sure they will illuminate but they wont be as bright as just having one on, cause the have to split the voltage.
 
Markviiiedrea said:
My question is, dose that wire it in series or parallel? If its in series you are going to have a voltage drop over both the bulbs sure they will illuminate but they wont be as bright as just having one on, cause the have to split the voltage.
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The unit plugs in between the headlamp wiring and bulbs and also has a fused battery feed. I suspect it is a solid state device that supplies power from the fused battery feed to the low beams when the high beams are switched on.
 
So it must have some kind of mili volt switch for when the highs are turned on it activates the switch witch probably controls a larger currant from the bat to the low instead of robbing current from the high beams.

If that where the case I could see that working pretty well. How much did you say it was?

it does not say if it will work on linconls or MN12 for that manor, they have one for my f-150.
 
Markviiiedrea said:
So it must have some kind of mili volt switch for when the highs are turned on it activates the switch witch probably controls a larger currant from the bat to the low instead of robbing current from the high beams.

If that where the case I could see that working pretty well. How much did you say it was?
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Are you sitting down?...
 
Ewwwwwwww. I like my red neck version that I have on mine for now.

get an extra peace of 14 AWG wire, put a diode in it, install it so the current only flows from the bright's to the lows, just use a t-tap and tap into the hot wire of the bright's and the hot wire of the lows, the diode keeps the highs off when the lows are on and vise versa, but than there is me i drive with my fogs, lows and highs on every where, but i have my highs pointed down so they don't blind any one, plus i polish them every month.

I want HID's :(

sun-n-fun 003 (Small).jpg


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sun-n-fun 006 (Small).jpg
 
Markviiiedrea said:
Ewwwwwwww. I like my red neck version that I have on mine for now.

get an extra peace of 14 AWG wire, put a diode in it, install it so the current only flows from the bright's to the lows, just use a t-tap and tap into the hot wire of the bright's and the hot wire of the lows, the diode keeps the highs off when the lows are on and vise versa...
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But aren't you pulling the extra current for the low beams through the one factory circuit for the high beams with the 'redneck diode' - effectively now burning four 65w bulbs through the high beam circuit?
 
Markviiiedrea said:
it does not say if it will work on linconls or MN12 for that manor, they have one for my f-150.
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I believe the model number on the box I received was GM3. Apparently GM came out with a 4 bulb setup using 9005s.
 
driller said:
But aren't you pulling the extra current for the low beams through the one factory circuit for the high beams with the 'redneck diode' - effectively now burning four 65w bulbs through the high beam circuit?
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Yup, but its ok I checked the circuit and all is a nominal temp there is no over heating in the wires.
 
Markviiiedrea said:
Yup, but its ok I checked the circuit and all is a nominal temp there is no over heating in the wires.
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Usually the wires will be OK, it's the connections that heat up. My first concern would be the headlamp switch and/or multifunction switch. It would be the same effect on the stock wiring as having 130 watt bulbs. Depending upon the voltage, you would be pulling approximately 20 amps versus 10 amps stock. (65 watts x 2)/13.6 volts = 9.56 amps vs. (65 watts x 4)/13.6 volts = 19.12 amps. Ford's headlamp switches are notoriously weak anyway.
 
JC1994 said:
would the GM4 for dual 9005s be the one to get? or GM3? both are for dual 9005s which one is correct?
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The GM4 is listed for '01-'02 GMs while the GM3 is listed for '03-'04 GM applications. I was sold the GM3 unit. I do not know the difference between the two. You can call them on their contacts page phone listing and inquire.
 
driller said:
The GM4 is listed for '01-'02 GMs while the GM3 is listed for '03-'04 GM applications. I was sold the GM3 unit. I do not know the difference between the two. You can call them on their contacts page phone listing and inquire.
Click to expand...
THANKS for a GREAT post!!! I will be getting a pair soon.
 
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