MsM8tress
Dedicated LVC Member
I am getting ready to get another Mark (96 Diamond Anniv.LSC) to replace my last one, she passed a few months ago.....
I am going to install a auto starter in the new one, should I provde the installer (they installed the starter in my 94) with these guidlines (below) that were posted a while back in a thread or should they know to be doing that way, or should they be doing it that way - heck I don't have a clue!
Thanks!
Gen 1 ('93 - '96)
The horn is your best bet, but you have to get it right out of the module before any other connections like the horn switch. The best way would be a connector located behind the left kick panel down on the left side where your foot would be. There is a removable panel with connectors hidden in there. Remove the panel and go to the largest and most rearward connector and look for a Yellow wire with a Light Green stripe on it (Y/LG). That is the connection from the Remote/Keyless Entry module without any other connectors or splices (except from the module in the trunk on the left hand side. You can cut the wire on either side of the connector. Use the wire going to the rear of the car.
Gen 2 ('97 & '98)
The only place to get to the wire without any splices is from the SCIL module (Steering Column/Ignition/Lighting) module. That is located on the right side of the instrument panel to the right of the glove box. To get to that, remove the contents of the glove box, remove the string loop from the right side of the box, and squeeze the back (or the front part) of the box to clear the rubber stoppers and the box will go down to the floor. Look inside to your right. The module right there is the SCIL module. Remove it and look for a Yellow wire with a Light Green stripe on it (Y/LG). That is the same wire as above. Use the wire coming OUT of the module for your trigger. So. leave enough wire to splice.
The Gen 2 cars use a networked system called the Multiplex Communications Network which sends signals from module to module, to reduce redundant wiring. The signal actually comes from the Driver's Door module through the network to the SCIL module.
You have to realize this will remove the horn from the panic system and no diode will help there to restore the horn function to the panic button. Also FYI, the outputs are internally connected to pull up resistors, so expect + or VCC on the cut wires FROM the modules. However, they do go to - or VDD when activated. If you are into PIC design, you may be able to restore the panic, but since you are using the same source to start the car, it's highly doubtful. The lights will still flash when you hit the panic button, but they do with a third party designed system too.
It's a start. Just design the start momentary relay and 4 ignition and heater, blower and A/C relays either with logic chips or a PIC with transistors (2N222s should do) to drive the relays. Use 30 - 40 amp automotive relays, not standard units like 4PDT units. They do not have the current carrying capability and the contacts are also too close for automotive work. Put the 4 relays on a timer so if you do not go out after around 15 minutes the engine will stop. Also, if the key is not turned on, or the brake pedal is pushed, the engine will again stop.
I am going to install a auto starter in the new one, should I provde the installer (they installed the starter in my 94) with these guidlines (below) that were posted a while back in a thread or should they know to be doing that way, or should they be doing it that way - heck I don't have a clue!
Thanks!
Gen 1 ('93 - '96)
The horn is your best bet, but you have to get it right out of the module before any other connections like the horn switch. The best way would be a connector located behind the left kick panel down on the left side where your foot would be. There is a removable panel with connectors hidden in there. Remove the panel and go to the largest and most rearward connector and look for a Yellow wire with a Light Green stripe on it (Y/LG). That is the connection from the Remote/Keyless Entry module without any other connectors or splices (except from the module in the trunk on the left hand side. You can cut the wire on either side of the connector. Use the wire going to the rear of the car.
Gen 2 ('97 & '98)
The only place to get to the wire without any splices is from the SCIL module (Steering Column/Ignition/Lighting) module. That is located on the right side of the instrument panel to the right of the glove box. To get to that, remove the contents of the glove box, remove the string loop from the right side of the box, and squeeze the back (or the front part) of the box to clear the rubber stoppers and the box will go down to the floor. Look inside to your right. The module right there is the SCIL module. Remove it and look for a Yellow wire with a Light Green stripe on it (Y/LG). That is the same wire as above. Use the wire coming OUT of the module for your trigger. So. leave enough wire to splice.
The Gen 2 cars use a networked system called the Multiplex Communications Network which sends signals from module to module, to reduce redundant wiring. The signal actually comes from the Driver's Door module through the network to the SCIL module.
You have to realize this will remove the horn from the panic system and no diode will help there to restore the horn function to the panic button. Also FYI, the outputs are internally connected to pull up resistors, so expect + or VCC on the cut wires FROM the modules. However, they do go to - or VDD when activated. If you are into PIC design, you may be able to restore the panic, but since you are using the same source to start the car, it's highly doubtful. The lights will still flash when you hit the panic button, but they do with a third party designed system too.
It's a start. Just design the start momentary relay and 4 ignition and heater, blower and A/C relays either with logic chips or a PIC with transistors (2N222s should do) to drive the relays. Use 30 - 40 amp automotive relays, not standard units like 4PDT units. They do not have the current carrying capability and the contacts are also too close for automotive work. Put the 4 relays on a timer so if you do not go out after around 15 minutes the engine will stop. Also, if the key is not turned on, or the brake pedal is pushed, the engine will again stop.
