Getting My MAF Adjusted Correctly...

fastmarkviii

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Ok so a while back I shaved my maf to get the square side of it round, I did it with success and got a big K&N on there, however, sometimes at certain downshift spots when I floor it, it like hick ups than goes, I know this is due to the maf not being turned clockwise or counter clockwise just right. my buddy got a bigger maf kit with the filter and he had trouble gettint it right as well. What can I do to solve this problem other than continually turning it than driving it around until its at the right spot????????

please help!!!!!!!! thanx:eek:
 
fastmarkviii said:
Ok so a while back I shaved my maf to get the square side of it round, I did it with success and got a big K&N on there, however, sometimes at certain downshift spots when I floor it, it like hick ups than goes, I know this is due to the maf not being turned clockwise or counter clockwise just right. my buddy got a bigger maf kit with the filter and he had trouble gettint it right as well. What can I do to solve this problem other than continually turning it than driving it around until its at the right spot????????

please help!!!!!!!! thanx:eek:


Just buy a real maf kit and be done with it. By the time your done trying to fix/remedy you could have bought two.
 
What did you round, the sensor or the stock housing? And yes you will have to clock your MAF housing to find the sweet spot, since you changed the factory design.
 
I rounded the stock housing I guess, its the part that was in the air box with the stock stuff, and even if I got a after market maf it still has to be adjusted just right, thats what my buddy had to do with his 80mm maf, plus they are like $215 with really no improvement as far as the track goes.
 
ONEBADMK8 said:
Just buy a real maf kit and be done with it. By the time your done trying to fix/remedy you could have bought two.

What benefits would "a real MAF kit" provide, and how?
 
fastmarkviii said:
I rounded the stock housing I guess, its the part that was in the air box with the stock stuff, and even if I got a after market maf it still has to be adjusted just right, thats what my buddy had to do with his 80mm maf, plus they are like $215 with really no improvement as far as the track goes.


Where do you get this info? Its a very big difference at the track, try it before you balk it. Its worth a minimum of one tenth easily.

It's $279.00 tried and proven with a lifetime warranty.
 
fastmarkviii said:
LITTLE HORSE POWER, BY INCREASING THE CFM FROM ABOUT 575CFM TO ABOUT 900CFM


Yeah 10-12 hp is very little. It allows more airflow with less restriction because the sample tube is laid down vs standing up like the stock units and it retains the factory electronics.

Heres more info.
 
Alright, Alright Dont Get Pissed But My Buddy Got It And Im Still Faster That S All. At The Same Time I Know That U Know What Your Talking About So My Bad
 
ONEBADMK8 said:
Yeah 10-12 hp is very little. It allows more airflow with less restriction because the sample tube is laid down vs standing up like the stock units and it retains the factory electronics.

Heres more info.

Care to put your product where your mouth is?

I'll back-to-back dyno test that product on video. I'll even have another LVC forum member there to check my figures and make sure I'm not 'cheating'. I doubt that the factory meter and airbox is so restrictive on a NA 4V motor that it will max the transfer function on the stock meter, or restrict airflow that much. That's roughly the same power gains blown '03/'04 Cobras are making with significantly increased airflow demands.

I have a 1998 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC, bone stock save for a K&N drop-in filter. I'll even put the paper filter back in for the initial dyno run. It made 228 rwhp last time I dynoed it.

If your meter/filter provides the gains you say, I'll happily pay full price for it, write a huge article on it complete with pictures, detailed installation instructions, and write/publish rave reviews about how kickass this product is.

If not, then I keep it free.


So if you're confident in your product claims, then you've got nothing to lose. I, on the other hand, will at least be shelling out some bucks for some dyno time, at the minimum.


I have a 422 cubic inch Windsor in my Mustang that I've spent a ridiculous amount of money on, so it's been a long time since I've gotten 12 rwhp for $300 - and I applaud any product that can do it.

Can yours?

Paul.
 
m_maker said:
I'd like to see the results of such test.

Well, we wait patiently for a yay or nay response. I am hopeful that manufacturer is up to the challenge.

Paul.
 
fastmarkviii said:
Alright, Alright Dont Get Pissed But My Buddy Got It And Im Still Faster That S All. At The Same Time I Know That U Know What Your Talking About So My Bad


Im not pissed at all.
 
Dr. Paul said:
Well, we wait patiently for a yay or nay response. I am hopeful that manufacturer is up to the challenge.

Paul.

Anytime anywhere bud. Walt had taken his off in 2002 and ran 1 tenth less in 3 consecutive runs, then re installs it and gets 1 tenth back for 3 runs. MANY people have had the same results. Plus you can read all the MM&FF tests on the Cobras and they all yeilded 10-12 hp.

You think your the first person to test this?

Anytime.
 
Dr. Paul said:
I have a 422 cubic inch Windsor in my Mustang that I've spent a ridiculous amount of money on, so it's been a long time since I've gotten 12 rwhp for $300.
Paul.


Oh man I Love it already. Pics PLEASE!
 
ONEBADMK8 said:
Anytime anywhere bud. Walt had taken his off in 2002 and ran 1 tenth less in 3 consecutive runs, then re installs it and gets 1 tenth back for 3 runs. MANY people have had the same results. Plus you can read all the MM&FF tests on the Cobras and they all yeilded 10-12 hp.

You think your the first person to test this?

Anytime.

I applaud a vendor that stands by their product. :D

Then it shall be. I will create a thread about it (probably tomorrow), and we'll set up all the details.

As for my Moostang pics - here ya go:

Saleen%20His%20Res%202.jpg

Motor%20Complete.jpg


The motor picture is sans my 4" stainless steel air inlet and filter. I no longer run MAF in this car because, well, I hate the damn things. :D

Paul.
 
ONEBADMK8 said:
HOLY CRAP! Any vids? Id love to hear that "CACKLE"!

Sure thing. This one isn't great - but it's the only one I have of the car with the new motor.

http://members.cox.net/carpinteri2/Car Start .avi

I just recently got it running, and now I'm 'ironing out all the bugs' - unfortunately, my car seems to be a bit infested with these darn bugs. :mad:

I'm struggling to pass emissions (imagine that) even with a couple gallons of denatured alcohol in the tank. I just had to pull my tranny again, and mail the flywheel back to McLeod to have a new ring gear put on. It seems the bottom bolt on my starter decided it would go ahead and back itself out, causing my starter to tear up the ring gear. So my transmission is currently laying on the floor underneath my car. :( It's a good thing I have my trusty Lincoln to get me to work everyday! :D

Paul.
 
so has it been proven to lose 1 tenth with a 80mm maf? wheres the proof, im not doubting, I just want to see it because its on the list of things to get for my mark viii, after tranny work and headers of course:) :cool:
 
I have heard of some having a bad experience with the C&L kit. Supposedly the car just won't run right, even with the right sample tube. What could cause this?
 
shagdrum said:
I have heard of some having a bad experience with the C&L kit. Supposedly the car just won't run right, even with the right sample tube. What could cause this?

People over oiling their air filter for one. Any contamination of the MAF wire can cause all sorts of driveability problems. I've used C&L's on 3 cars with no problems whatsoever with driveability.
 

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