Grinding Noise

[itsnotmydaddys]

Theres a grinding noise when i reverse and turn the wheel and also sometimes when im stopping. does the mean its time for new brakes or what. if so where can i get some cheap parts im a college student on a budget with some bills to pay also so cheap i good.

 

[luckieleo]

Theres a grinding noise when i reverse and turn the wheel and also sometimes when im stopping. does the mean its time for new brakes or what. if so where can i get some cheap parts im a college student on a budget with some bills to pay also so cheap i good.

the brake pads are not hard to check...have you taken off a wheel & had a good look at the brakes...
if you can identify which side the grinding is coming from, go take a looksie at the brake pads. it might be time for new pads...

im a broke college student too, but i went with some ceramic brake pads from napa. cant even remember the price right now... but they werent all that cheap... i think around $100 for the front & rear pads & another $80 for the rotors? wow, i really cant remember and it was only about a month ago too!! :Bang

mine squeaked for about a week, then started grinding. it was my rears that were really worn with metal showing thru... i couldnt put it off anymroe..

 

[Jim Henderson]

Hmmm, does it gring when you are moving slowly in reverse? Is it really a grinding noise or is it more like the tires are rubbing and the car kind of jerks a little?

Reason I ask is maybe our LS have limited slip differentials and Maybe yours is "grabby" and could use some limited slip additive.

I do not know if the LS has limited slip, many rear drive perfomance axles are limited slip so I would guess better than 50/50 odds of us having it.

The test for a limited slip needing additive is when in slow speed tight turns, especially in reverse, the differential will "chatter", quick little grabby feel of the car like the brakes cutting in and out or the tires grabbing on the fender.

If this is what is happening you might try a tube of limited slip additive available at most autoparts stores. COmes in a big toothpate tube and costs soemthing like $5? Usually use one tube to cure the chatter.

First we need to findout if the LS has limited slip.

BUT if it is a metallic grinding noise, then you are looking at potentially an expensive problem. If it is the brakes, you need to pull the pads right now or at least take a good look at the rotors, both sides. Inspection is easy and free if you do it yourself. Pull each wheel and take a strong light and inspect the rotors.

If there are grooves big enough to easily catch your finger nail, then you probably had a pad wear out and got metal to metal contact. You will need to have the rotor turned if you are lucky(about $20), or you will need new rotors(maybe $100 plus or minus a lot).

A mickey mouse temporary fix would be to use new pads, but realizing the brakes are questionable and they won't wear as long.


Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

[lsbit]

I do not know if the LS has limited slip, many rear drive perfomance axles are limited slip so I would guess better than 50/50 odds of us having it.

The LS does not have a limited slip diff. It is open. Good idea otherwise!

 

[MikeB]

The LS does not have a limited slip diff. It is open. Good idea otherwise!

Please excuse me while I ask my dumb question for the day, but if the LS doesn't have a limited slip then why do I leave two black lines when I take off instead of one, like most cars?

 

[lsbit]

Please excuse me while I ask my dumb question for the day, but if the LS doesn't have a limited slip then why do I leave two black lines when I take off instead of one, like most cars?

Good question. I did rebuild my rear diff though, and I can tell you that is does not have a clutch pack in there! I don't think the advance track system would work well enough for you to leave two black lines, but hey.... Do you turn the traction control off when you do it? If so, we can rule that out.

On another note, the easiest way I know of to check if you have a limited slip rear is to jack the back up and turn the driveshaft and see if both wheels rotate the same way.

 

[itsnotmydaddys]

its not just when i back up its in drive too. i hear it when im stopping most of the time on the mornings mostly.

 

[MikeB]

Good question. I did rebuild my rear diff though, and I can tell you that is does not have a clutch pack in there! I don't think the advance track system would work well enough for you to leave two black lines, but hey.... Do you turn the traction control off when you do it? If so, we can rule that out.

On another note, the easiest way I know of to check if you have a limited slip rear is to jack the back up and turn the driveshaft and see if both wheels rotate the same way.

I appoligize for not staying on subject and I beleive you if you say you didn't see one, but I'm curious.
I don't have Advanced trac, traction control off, and just enough power break to load up the suspention. The tires don't break loose untill i let go of the break and floor the gas. At that point both tires spin and the a$$ end starts moving to the left (@ 2 to the side then @15 feet forward) before they catch.

 

[lsbit]

its not just when i back up its in drive too. i hear it when im stopping most of the time on the mornings mostly.

Tough to say. Mine does it in the morning, but it is because the rotors rust over-night. I would check brakes first, wheel bearings maybe next. You will usually get some pad contact with the rotor even when the brakes aren't applied, so it can be hard to listen for wheel bearing noise sometimes. I always remove the brakes to check the bearings.

 

[lsbit]

I appoligize for not staying on subject and I beleive you if you say you didn't see one, but I'm curious.

Well, it's not impossible to leave 2 marks in an open diff if it is going back and forth. ..and no offense taken at all. Maybe you have a prototype. You could start a new thread on this subject and see if anyone has an explanation.

 

[kleetus]

We do not have limited slip rears, someone on here was looking to instal one, but it's a pain to get it to fit, and it depends on what gears you have as to if it will even fit in the case. It is possible to leave to marks with an open diff. It just means your car is well balanced left to right. By the way, if you did have a limited slip, the last thing you want to do is put any additive in it. I tried real hard to get that sound in on of my other cars, it means the limited slip is working to it's fullest potential. Otherwise, it's slipping, and when it slips, you usually end up with "the one wheel peel".

 

[lsbit]

By the way, if you did have a limited slip, the last thing you want to do is put any additive in it.

Unless it is the Ford additive that you must use when you have a limited slip. If you don't use it, you will get chatter.

 

[kleetus]

Unless it is the Ford additive that you must use when you have a limited slip. If you don't use it, you will get chatter.

Negative.... you want that chatter... that's the only proof that the clutches aren't glazed over.

If you never plan on autocrossing or pulling out hard and making a right turn, by all means add the stuff. Otherwise, get the redline 75w-140 NS synthetic. NS quite literally means "non slip". We got about 55k miles out of an auburn pro differential on the street, Auburn's comment was use of a friction modifier reduces the effectiveness of any limited slip carrier. It was noisy, but it hooked up EVERY time.

 

[lsbit]

Negative.... you want that chatter... that's the only proof that the clutches aren't glazed over.

Well..."I" don't want the chatter. If I ever want to get serious, maybe, but I would look at a true locker setup at that point.