Eric0508
Well-Known LVC Member
Help!!! We're working on the front lower ball joints, the knuckle is off but we cant figure out how to remove the hub from the knuckle. Any help would be appreciated.
Help!!! Ball Joints and Wheel bearings
- Thread starter Eric0508
- Start date
Black87LSC
Dedicated LVC Member
I dont have any experience with LS's, but I would assume its the same as any other car ive worked on. Just pop the dust cap off, pull out the cotter pin, take the nut off, and slide the rotor off
milehighmikey
Dedicated LVC Member
The two dissimilar metals from the hub and knuckle tend to bond to each other making it a total pita to get them apart. Once you remove the 4 bolts that attach the hub to the knuckle, there is nothing else holding the two together, except corrosion. If I had to do it again, I would take it to a machine shop and press it apart, using the bolts that hold the two together as a place to press against, backed off maybe 4 turns from snug. In fact, I used a 5/8" drift to hammer my bolts to get them to push the hub away from the knuckle when I did mine, but one of them would not budge.
If you are replacing the whole knuckle, you can actually cut a line into the knuckle to get to the hub and if you are good with a sawzall or other reciprocating saw, you can get the cut line all the way to the hub. Then when you break through the knuckle to the hub, you can drive a wedge into the cut aluminum of the knuckle to release the pressure and remove the good hub to transplant to the new knuckle. I prepped mine with a generous coating of anti-seize where the metal bonds the two parts together to prevent a recurrence.
If you are replacing the whole knuckle, you can actually cut a line into the knuckle to get to the hub and if you are good with a sawzall or other reciprocating saw, you can get the cut line all the way to the hub. Then when you break through the knuckle to the hub, you can drive a wedge into the cut aluminum of the knuckle to release the pressure and remove the good hub to transplant to the new knuckle. I prepped mine with a generous coating of anti-seize where the metal bonds the two parts together to prevent a recurrence.
Eric0508
Well-Known LVC Member
well, guess its to the machine shop tomorrow, gotta go there tomorrow anyways to get the bearings pushed in. thanks for the help!!
jeffyman215267
Active LVC Member
from the back
5 bolts and a connection
5 bolts and a connection
jeffyman215267
Active LVC Member
need whole hub
cant just press in bearings,only the rears,
cant just press in bearings,only the rears,
Eric0508
Well-Known LVC Member
Yeah, thats the easy part
Anyways... the deed is done. Took them to a mechanic today and $100 later, the hubs and ball joints were pressed out and the new ball joints were pressed in. While the knuckles were off, I determined that a new left wheel bearing was needed too. So I picked up a pair from the local dealer, and a good thing too because the mechanic destroyed the bearing assembly pressing the hub out. Regardless, I saved a ton of money.
Dealer quote: $1400 for ball joints + $??? for wheel bearing/hubs
My cost: $120 for ball joints, $280 for bearings, $8 for nylocs
Still working the the sway bar bushings, god that front passenger bolt is a pita, should be finished tommorow. Again, thats for the help everyone.