Help with code P0412

JAY89ls6

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Hi,
Currently this is all I know about this code:* P0412 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Malfunction.
I had this code come up about a year or two ago and than it went away. I believe it has been on now for a over a month. It seems like this time it needs fixing. This vehicle is an 01 ls v6 5 speed manual. Can someone give me some additional info as to where this valve might be located and what its purpose. Is. I havn't checked the ford website yet, but i believe I can find the component's location or part number. My only guess right now would be the valve is bad/stuck or some electrical command is not going to the valve.

Thanks in advance for any help,

Jay
 
I don't have a V6 and haven't looked at one in a long time. There is an electric air pump and maybe a valve or two. The system pumps extra air into the catalytic converters to warm them up and to burn off contaminants. You should be able to trace the exhaust above the cats to find the plumbing for this. The plumbing will lead to the parts involved.
 
Clear the CEL error code, see if it comes back right away. if not, why worry about it.
if you don't have an OBDII reader then disconnect both battery cables for a few minutes, let it reset and see if it returns.
 
Thanks for the response. I will reset the code once and if it comes back I will begin tracking down which component needs to be replaced. Hopefully I remember to follow up on what resolved the problem if the code comes back again.
 
ok so the code came back after two days of driving. I'm looking at the parts breakdown and this is what I can make of it:the air pump(9A486) connects to a hose that than goes to another hose with a check valve(9B460) than, it connects to another check valve(9f491 $193.10) which has an output to the secondary air injection tube(9B480), and i believe that output is controlled by a solenoid vacuum valve(9H465 $49.48) I'm currently thinking it could be the solenoid, that expensive check valve or any of the hose/tubes in the circuit. I'm trying to figure out the best way to test my theory and make sure I replace the right part/parts. Any suggestions? airpump_ls.jpg

airpump_ls.jpg
 
There are several components, do a search on google for the p0411. Basically you have an extra air pump under the drivers front fender in front of the tire. The PCM signals the pump to send air to the switching valve that opens letting air enter both exhaust manifolds to burn extra fuel. There is a valve solenoid at the back of the intake manifold (black, 2 vac lines) that controls the switching valve (hard to see, but in front of engine down low). the air line comes from the pump to the valve, just follow the rubber air line to the valve, check for the vacuum lines at valve, make sure they have not slipped off. for that matter check all vacuum lines. This is a simple setup but rarely thought about. Vac lines are easy to break or rot from heat. Anyway a new valve cost $200+!!!! There are testing procedures in the manual. I got the p0411 code and fixed it with a new pump relay.
 
The 9h465 solenoid can be checked with a volt meter. measure resistance between terminals, 50-1000ohms? = good.

if the pump is not working you would get a p0411 secondary air system flow incorrect.

you can check the 9f491 with a vac pump to see if it holds vacuum. if not then bad. One other guy had the 9f491 go bad that i know of.
 
Thanks,
I will check those things. Have not looked in those areas in the past, but I'm sure I can find them. Did you pull certain hoses off to make sure the pump was actually pumping air out?
 
I checked all the hoses and tubes which were visible without having to take off anything major. Everything looks in good shape, no cracks in hose/tubes, no loose connections. I removed the hose that connects to the expensive 9F491 check valve, turned the car on, and I determined the air pump is working up to that point. So I believe I am looking at pulling off that vacuum solenoid and testing it. I believe there is a way to test this component. Can someone tell me what's involved in doing the testing?
 
... Can someone tell me what's involved in doing the testing?

Well, the ideal way is with a scan tool that can command PCM outputs on and off, a hand vacuum pump, a vacuum gauge, and a multi-meter. It can, of course, be done with less than that.
 
Oh crap! 3 days without a CEL and the P0411 comes back to haunt me! And I get a nail in the front tire! Just not my day. Ok, then plenty of good sunshine and warm weather in Atlanta Ga the next few days, so under the car I go.
 
to test the solenoid, put a test hose on the solenoid, start car and see if you feel a vacuum, if you feel vacuum for the 30-90 seconds, then either no vacuum getting to valve or valve bad. if no vacuum felt then either solenoid bad or vacuum line bad. will start investigating this weekend on my 01V6
 
Notes,,,,I found no check valve in 9b460 line. With car on ramps, removed hose connection at diverter valve, tied it down to check for pump air. Started cold engine, pump came on, could feel air being pumped thru hose, could hear the diverter valve open, exhaust noises coming thru strong, so i know at least one arm of exhaust is clear, 30 seconds and the diverter valve closed, no more exhaust noise and pump stopped pumping. System seems to be working correctly. Hmmmm.
 
Could it be that the pump is not pumping strongly enough?
 
Could it be that the pump is not pumping strongly enough?
, yes that was my question too, but how strong is strong enough? My 02 sensors have never been changed in 153k miles, maybe I am getting a false reading. Or possibly I have a intermittent air bypass solenoid.
 
replaced the o2 sensors, still getting the P0411, back to square one. will update with progress.
 
Update and fix

Ok, so I removed the vacuum line from the back from the solenoid switch and diverter valve. There is only one vacuum hose that goes to the back of the manifold for constant vacuum. The vacuum hose shares the vacuum with the charcoal canister, so pull off the line to the charcoal canister and check for vacuum too. Should be a mild vacuum on the skin of your finger. If not then you have a plugged vac line or a leak in the line. removed the vac solenoid next to the diverter valve and tested solenoid, resistence good! Ok, so replaced solenoid with a Dormon 600-400 4wd solenoid for $17 off ebay, this is the same solenoid as the lincoln one. Problem fixed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! the solenoid was sticking!!!!!!!!! I have another post on the P0411 code.
 
Sorry for the late update, but I have been quite busy at work. I ended up taking my car to the shop for this problem. I was able to leave it there for awhile and had them take their time fixing the issue. So for me I ended up having a faulty check valve part #(9f491) I ended up paying the $200 for the part and $100 in labor. From what they told me, they had to remove one of the radiator hoses, and the threaded nut that goes to one of the metal tubes was seized to the point that they sprayed it with penetrating fluid throughout a full day of working on other cars. Picked it up and no CEL
 

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