Help with p1235 p1237 codes after engine swap - crank no start.

slevane

New LVC Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2013
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Location
Columbus
I had a "pro" do an engine swap for me. I have the car back after a "year" and it is setting codes 1235/1237

Particulars
2002 Lincoln LS
Engine V6 - engine came out of 2001

The car sat for a year (was running before engine death) has never run since.
Engine cranks but doesn't start
PATS light is not flashing
I do not hear the fuel pump(s) run when I turn the ignition to run
No pressure at the fuel rail
The "pro" told me the fuel pump fuse was blown and he replaced it

The car is setting a p1237 and p1235 which appear to be related to the fuel circuit

Could this be bad fuel pump(s) or is it more likely an open circuit somewhere?

What is the best way to check that there is power to the fuel circuit all the way through?


Thanks

Scott
 
Last edited:
This is still unclear. After the engine was replaced, did the car ever start and run? It doesn't seem like a "pro" would return a non-working car to you.

The REM controls the fuel pump, and pressure is regulated via this control. You could apply power directly to the fuel pump to see if it works, but you couldn't drive the car that way, the fuel pressure would be way too high most of the time.
Those codes indicate a problem with the fuel pump, the REM, and/or the wiring between the two.
 
Joeger I updated the description with more details (car has never started since swap, the fuel pump fuse was blown and replaced, the "pro" thinks maybe it is the fuel pump. What do you mean by the REM controls the fuel pump? What is the REM? The "pro" quite literally had the car for one year and I think he just gave up. I don't believe he could figure out the issue. I should have done this swap myself to begin with, my mistake, lesson learned again. Quite frankly I think the car is in better hands now. I am looking for one of the Ford diagnostic charts to tell me how and where to check through the fuel circuit.

It appears he did a decent job with the swap itself I don't see anything visibly broken, damaged, or out of place.
 
REM = Rear Electronics Module. It's in the trunk, behind the trunk light.
There is no fuel pressure regulator. Instead there's a fuel pressure sensor the the PCM reads. Based on that and other conditions, the PCM tells the REM how much power to give the fuel pump.
 
the "Pro" probably went to test the fuel pump, and sh!t himself when he saw there were two of them!
 
With a mulimeter should I see a current to the fuel pumps when the key is turned to the run position? Can I safely probe this?

Same question for fuel pump kill switch in the drivers kick panel?


Scott
 
Last edited:
Search is your friend...
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...mages&tbs=&as_filetype=&as_rights=&gws_rd=ssl

Only the passenger side pump is electric. The driver's side pump is a jet pump powered by the gasoline flow from the electric pump on the passenger side.

Positive power (+12V) is switched to the pump via a relay controlled by the REM. Negative power (ground) is electronically switched inside the REM. It uses PWM to control the pump speed.

From the second search result above:
On the passenger's side.

Green with orange band is the positive power to the fuel pump. (pin 2)
Black with red band is the negative power to the fuel pump. (pin 4)

White with red band is the feed to the fuel level sender. (pin 1)
Brown with red band is the ground to the fuel level sender. (pin 3)

On the driver's side.

White with blue band is the feed to the fuel level sender. (pin 1)
Brown with blue band is the ground to the fuel level sender. (pin 3)
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top