Hesitation when cold
- Thread starter MrWilson
- Start date
turborich said:
yea its well maintained...the problems are problems that never get cured, i just keep trying to solve the situation. this problem has been arround for 2 years now. im not 100% on the 71k, but carfax says so. im bout 99% on the 71k.
94m5
Dmaup's Daddy
Check your fuel pressure.
JC1994
Dedicated LVC Member
My Mark 8 has 140,000 miles on it and I have not had hardly any problems with it, I must have got a good one.....
NYC LS8
Dedicated LVC Member
Put a fuel pressure gauge on the schraeder valve of the fuel rail.
GMAN
Dedicated LVC Member
Yes, it is that little thing that has a black cap on it. Just twist that off.
Bluesman73
Active LVC Member
I've noticed my Mark likes to be warmed up before getting on it. That's just how fuel injection is until it warm up completely. When first started cold, your engine runs in what is called "open loop." This is a basic factory program that tells the computer how to run your engine until it warms up. Not the best for performance, but best for your engine until it properly warms up. After your engine has warmed up, your computer will enter the "closed loop" and rely on all of the sensors to properly regulate fuel and timing demands.
You should always let your engine warm up completely before romping around. This also goes for your transmission. They like to be warmed up before abusing them.
You should always let your engine warm up completely before romping around. This also goes for your transmission. They like to be warmed up before abusing them.
JC1994
Dedicated LVC Member
:I It's never good to floor it on a cold engine, it is not good on all those rapidly expanding internal parts.. my car also likes to be fully warmed up before it will make full power.
torquemonkey
Dedicated LVC Member
I came across a Tech link that had stated that the MK VIII engine should be at least 140 degrees before hammering on it. It gives the aluminum the chance to fully expand to keep your gaskets in palce.
Whether fuel injected or carb, the engine needs to be brought up to operating temp before any rated values can be met or reliable performance can be expected.
Whether fuel injected or carb, the engine needs to be brought up to operating temp before any rated values can be met or reliable performance can be expected.
JC1994
Dedicated LVC Member
dude, don't be a tard, if it's off idle than maybe you should check your TPS voltage.MrWilson said:
JC1994
Dedicated LVC Member
and if that doesn't fix the problem try adjusting your muffler bearings with a metric crescent wrench.
Moes8
Dedicated LVC Member
JC1994 said:
i thought muffler bearings used Torx bits for the adjusting rod...?no?
JC1994 said:
dude! iv done that, my tps is only one year old. im getting codes that show low voltage on tps egr and maf...and since the tps is new, its more than likely a bigger problem than the individual sensors.
Bluesman73
Active LVC Member
So, Mr. Wilson. If your car is only missing "off idle" when it is cold, what does it do when it is warmed up?
bufordtpisser
Dedicated LVC Member
OK, so the TPS is new.....................
What about the egr and the MAF? Are they new also? The only real way to attack a problem is a systematic approach. You are getting codes, for the TPS, it is new, could it still be bad?? Possibly. But you are also getting the other codes. Try eliminating those as the possible cause of the codes. You usually can't eliminate all of the issues that you are getting codes for by just replacing one bad part. Wishful thinking.
It is very true that any internal combustion engine should reach operating temperture before being flogged. And that includes everything from way tiny little hobby engines to way big humongus navy destroyer powerplants. Maybe, just maybe Mr. Wilson, it is you that is your Marks worst enemy. Not picking on you, but from the list of issues that you have gone through, you either have one of the worst lemon Marks in history, or you just plain beat the hell out of that poor car.
MrWilson said:
What about the egr and the MAF? Are they new also? The only real way to attack a problem is a systematic approach. You are getting codes, for the TPS, it is new, could it still be bad?? Possibly. But you are also getting the other codes. Try eliminating those as the possible cause of the codes. You usually can't eliminate all of the issues that you are getting codes for by just replacing one bad part. Wishful thinking.
It is very true that any internal combustion engine should reach operating temperture before being flogged. And that includes everything from way tiny little hobby engines to way big humongus navy destroyer powerplants. Maybe, just maybe Mr. Wilson, it is you that is your Marks worst enemy. Not picking on you, but from the list of issues that you have gone through, you either have one of the worst lemon Marks in history, or you just plain beat the hell out of that poor car.
bufordtpisser said:
well, im quite sure its a lemon, cuz i got the car with 42k, and im the 6th owner...so theres obviously a reason everyone dumped it.
My thinking is that its something other than those individual parts, because it all failed at once.
torquemonkey
Dedicated LVC Member
MrWilson said:
Do list all of your "new" codes individually. Sounds like you have a low voltage issue that stems from a low battery or Alternator. If I were you, I would begin a methodical search of every ground connection on the car. Do a votlage drop check at every ground tap to see if the issue lies in that.
Its not a bad idea to look at the cables that come off of the battery to see if they are in good shape. More than a cursory "visual" check, mind you. Get in there and move the cables around, looking for corrosion, splits in insulation or anything that feels or sounds funky.
After you have posted all of your numbers as accurately as possible, that should help the rest of us w/ potential suggestions.