how do you take the rotors off

mark0101

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How do you remove the 1997 Mark VIII rotors. I can't see any screws that attach to the rotors. Thanks in advance.
 
Front or rear? Either way, it's about the same process. The bolts are all on the backside, and the rotor isn't really held on by them. You just need to first take the caliper off, then the bracket that holds the caliper. Then the rotor should just slide off. Good luck...
 
you have to remove the caliper from its mounting bracket some cars have flat star washer holding the rotor to the whellhub this is on the studs. generaly two per rotor. then the rotor will slide off. if you are going to replace the pads you will need to turn the pistons on the rear to get them to compress. be shure to check the level of fuild in your master cylinder. if someone has added fuild to it to bring it up to the fill line when you compress the pucks it will cause a spillage from the master cylinder of which you don't want. be shure to brake in the rotors per other links on sight. jds353
 
mark0101 said:
This is for the gen 1 mark. I am doing my brakes from that artical but can't get passed that since I can't find any screws to remove it. Do I just pull it out.



Yes - the rotor itself isnt held on by any mechanical fasteners. Once you remove the calipers, it 'should' come right off. If it doesnt, try giving it a few whacks with a rubber mallet. It might be held on by a little rust or something.
 
Front and rear rotors are held on with two speed nuts, and if the last folks who changed the rotors didn't put any of FORDS silicone dielectric compound or an equivalent on the hub, you could find the rotors firmly affixed to the hubs by rust and more than a rubber mallet will be required. More like lots of penetrating oil and a sledge hammer! Put them back on right! And be sure to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern or you can end up with new warped rotors.
 
Joeychgo said:
Yes - the rotor itself isnt held on by any mechanical fasteners. Once you remove the calipers, it 'should' come right off. If it doesnt, try giving it a few whacks with a rubber mallet. It might be held on by a little rust or something.
Thanks guys, it did just came right off. I talked to jibit, and he told me how to do it. I changed the brakes pads and rotors easily after I was done with the first one. thanks again.
 
did you break in the new rotors?

The following procedure is called “bedding in” your brake pads – it helps reduce brake noise and makes the pads last longer.

  • From a speed of 30 to 40 mph, brake gently until the car almost stops.
  • Reaccelerate to 30 to 40 mph; stay there for 30 to 40 seconds while the brakes cool.
  • Repeat this routine five times with no sudden or hard stops.
  • Next, take the car up to 55 mph and brake gently down to 20 mph.
  • Wait the same 30 to 40 seconds for the brakes to cool.
  • Repeat this four times.
  • Do not drive vehicle for one hour to allow the rotors to cool.
 
Joeychgo said:
did you break in the new rotors?

The following procedure is called “bedding in” your brake pads – it helps reduce brake noise and makes the pads last longer.

  • From a speed of 30 to 40 mph, brake gently until the car almost stops.
  • Reaccelerate to 30 to 40 mph; stay there for 30 to 40 seconds while the brakes cool.
  • Repeat this routine five times with no sudden or hard stops.
  • Next, take the car up to 55 mph and brake gently down to 20 mph.
  • Wait the same 30 to 40 seconds for the brakes to cool.
  • Repeat this four times.
  • Do not drive vehicle for one hour to allow the rotors to cool.
yeah i did that. just want thank you and jibit for the artical.
 
PioneerCrazed said:
Front or rear? Either way, it's about the same process. The bolts are all on the backside, and the rotor isn't really held on by them. You just need to first take the caliper off, then the bracket that holds the caliper. Then the rotor should just slide off. Good luck...

Dude your sig is CRAZY - I LOL.
 

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