Huge favor to ask...

pektel

pektel

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Anyone have a stock gen 1 ring gear and pinion to take accurate measurements? I'm searching right now to see if any other auto manufacturer's 8.0" gears will work in the LS. For example, some toyotas have an 8.0" diff, and have a large selection of gears (3.9, 4.11, 4.56, etc). But I need to make sure of a few things. spacing/diameter of bolt holes to make sure they line up with the diff, and all the overall measurements (inside and outside diameter of ring gear, pinion measurements, etc.)

Or by the odd chance someone has a set to donate, I would pay the shipping to get them to me so I could take the measurements.
 
94m5 said:
Why not convert to the 8.8 IRS pumpkin?
Click to expand...

Total cost to do that runs a little more than 1200. Hoping to see if I can just buy a set of gears. Or even get a custom set made. The only thing is, I don't know how much stress the stock 8.0" can take. As pointed out by Sully on another forum, the 8.8 is already tried and true!

ford nut said:
I will have a spare out of my LSC you can play with if you want.
Click to expand...

Well, I know the 8.8 ring gear and pinion won't work with the 8.0" housing. So not sure how much help that would be. And I can't compare the 2 since the only set I have are installed in my car. Thank you for the offer though. :D
 
pektel said:
Total cost to do that runs a little more than 1200. Hoping to see if I can just buy a set of gears. Or even get a custom set made. The only thing is, I don't know how much stress the stock 8.0" can take. As pointed out by Sully on another forum, the 8.8 is already tried and true!



Well, I know the 8.8 ring gear and pinion won't work with the 8.0" housing. So not sure how much help that would be.
Click to expand...

To do the swap silly..... Go big or go home.
 
Oh, in that case... YES! I thought you were just talking about the ring gear and pinion :D
 
You might find a matching ring gear, but on the pinion will be miracle. The one in the LS is very different.
 
pektel said:
Total cost to do that runs a little more than 1200. Hoping to see if I can just buy a set of gears. Or even get a custom set made. The only thing is, I don't know how much stress the stock 8.0" can take. As pointed out by Sully on another forum, the 8.8 is already tried and true!
Click to expand...

Custom will cost far more.

And you don't have to worry about stress unless you're running slicks. I would think that if you're putting any real power down that the tires spinning will save your rear, driveshaft and axle shafts from blowing up.
 
yeah i.m having trouble even finding a place to do the gears if i were to need a custom set made.
 
Well the pump is out of my car...so the tank has to come out......so a 93 shaft that Brandon wants to sell is going in my car......so I might as well stick the pumpkin with the trac loc and the 4 10s I have been hording into the LSC. Sooooooo if you talk nice to Brandon.......
You know its a stock open 3.27 Diff right?
 
yeah the guts don.t really matter. i have a t lock already that i can swap out of my current setup. just would need to buy some gears, and the custom driveshaft. then figure out the front brace.
 
Dude, that's awesome. Looks like what's left is a set of 8.8 gears, and the driveshaft. Then some steel for the brace.

I'm so excited now... I can just imagine the difference between stock open diff, and 4.30's with a t lock and stalled. Completely different car I expect.
 
Get your steel here.
You can get it shiped to my work or I can pick it up...let me know.

We might have to run them this summer :)
Loser buys the beer.
Now were is that link for that NOS kit I wanted.......
 
Holy crap I thought you disappeared.

I'm exploring one other option right now, but it looks like it may be another dead end. I was looking into some options with the tbird, as I was told it came with an 8.8" rear. So I was hoping to swap driveshaft and housing. First I found out that there's only a few mm difference in rear track... sounds good so far. But after some research, I'm finding that the wheelbase is WAY different (107.2" for the tbird vs. 114.49" for the LS). So I think I'm back at square one.
 
T-Bird has the same rear.

Everyone that doesn't know the LS thinks it has the 8.8, so I could see the same for the T-Bird. I had a junk yard guy arguing with me at a bar once. I told him I had the only 4.10ed LS that exists as far as I know. He was like its a 8.8, whats the big deal. Explained the whole Jag platform thing to him.

Usually when you start talking about guibos and flex couplers and no u-joints at the ends only in the middle, people get lost. The whole concept is strange to most, even people that know cars.

Thats said I even had to get used to the whole design and how it works.


What I did is the only way to gear up unless the Jag 8.0 is still being used and has more options now in a more recent model.
 
What about a machine shop or something making the gears for an 8.0"? Or would that be even more expensive than just upgrading to the 8.8"? The only things that have me really worried are the custom brace, and the driveshaft mod. I mean, I would love to hear your input as to what I should have done to the driveshaft, so that part of the equation is solved.
 
I can't imagine the cost of having the gears made, guessing way more than the swap I did.


The brace isn't bad with a good welder and someone that has a good chop saw caplable of neatly cutting the thick steel at angles cleanly. ILLS had me covered there. With patience I suppose sawzall, file and patience would work.



As far as the driveshaft. Well first you have to get the general concept of a driveshaft out of your mind. The LS unit doesn't really work that way. Yet what you have to do to it is a mix of the LS design and the more conventional drive shaft.


The LS shaft connects to the tranny and the to diff when stock in a straight fasion best I can tell with no - or + angle. Think of the shafts as just extensions on the trans and diff. The Guibo does allow give and flex but the shaft has a what I would call a pilot bearing in the connection similar to the way a manual trans shaft sits in the crank of a motor. Difference being they spin at the same rate all but what the Guibo allows to give being the only difference in rotation, almost none, just some give.


The only angle in the shaft would be at the center bearing, there is a u-joint there. It is staked and supposedly unserviceable but I did read on here someone having it replaced alone. Also there is a slide yoke there at the center bearing. *****This is where 2 shaft designs seem to exist, or at least i found, who knows if there is more. They are interchangeable but different designs*****.

So in a more typical car a driveshaft knuckles at both the trans and diff with proper but flexable angles. Thats why cars/trucks can be raised (talking solid axle now) and lowered with no problems unless taking to the extreme usually.


Again the LS has the knuckle in the middle. diff and trans don't move.....little anyway.


Now thats fine and dandy but once you 8.8 you loose the pilot shaft on the yoke so you now have to loose the Guibo all together. NOW you no longer want a straight joint there. I went wrong here and tried to locate the pinion in the same place as the stock diff. Fine no problem the u-joint was there already, so I just lowered the pinion alittle. Hard to say if my angles are equal but its working fine. You end up with the front of the shaft operating normal as it would stock....and the back have is now a very short typical shaft with u-joints at both ends and some proper angles.

I'm tired of typing.

I'll get into the center slide yoke and 2 different designs....why I have one and want to do the other and why if you do what I did with the other style shaft you'll likely have BIG vibes, stay continued
 
Pete quit trying to reinvent the wheel... there is an 8.8 carrier in my trunk that has your name all over it and I'm going to build you the brace...
 
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