I’ve searched but no luck.. cruise control

BlacksonAudio

BlacksonAudio

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ive searched the forum and keep finding the same solution so I’m hoping that solution did not work and some had to go further.
My cruise control works intermittent. Some days I can go miles before it disengages. Others I can’t make it a 1/2 Mile if it engages at all.
I have changed the clockspring with a new OEM from Ford. There are two switches behind the brakes. I’ve replaced those with yard pulls. Same results. I’m lost now because these seem to be the same answer everyone gives.
Please help. Thanks in advance!
 
There are two very different cruise control setups used on the LS. The 1st gen uses a cruise control module with a servo and a mechanical connection to the throttle. The 2nd gen uses software that runs in the PCM which controls the electronic throttle. Troubleshooting the two different systems is very different.
If you want help, then I need to know what year and what engine your LS is.
 
Is this what you are talking about? I pulled this from a 2000v8

249392C1-DDE0-4F95-BB93-9A3BC7B8AFC0.jpg
 
A brake switch from the yard might have the same problem. If tapping the brakes a couple of times gets it to work again then it's likely the brake switch. Get a good scan tool and monitor the switch PIDs while driving and see if that one flips around if you want to really diagnose it.

Actually, with how the switches are actually installed, you're most likely to make the problem worse by installing a used switch. They have an internal stop which is manipulated by the brake pedal when it's first installed to set the brake pedal location. A very very small variance is enough to trip the switch.

Get a new cruise control brake switch. If your brake lights work correctly then you can keep that one.
 
Yes, that's the cruse module. Check for problems with the mechanical cable and where it attaches to the throttle. Any catches or rough spots can cause the cruise to shut off. It could also be that the servo is overheating on the module. If you can't spot any mechanical problems, then you will need to use a scan tool that can read all the modules in the car, otherwise it will just be guessing. I think the Forscan is a cheap setup that can do it.
 
I have Blue Driver and it reads the PIDs but I’m not sure what I’m looking at or for? Thanks guys I think this is the right direction!!
Any links to help me figure out the PIDs
 
Look for any errors from the cruise control module.
You can check the servo power switch (2nd brake switch) with a volt meter pretty quickly.
 
oddball said:
A brake switch from the yard might have the same problem. If tapping the brakes a couple of times gets it to work again then it's likely the brake switch. Get a good scan tool and monitor the switch PIDs while driving and see if that one flips around if you want to really diagnose it.

Actually, with how the switches are actually installed, you're most likely to make the problem worse by installing a used switch. They have an internal stop which is manipulated by the brake pedal when it's first installed to set the brake pedal location. A very very small variance is enough to trip the switch.

Get a new cruise control brake switch. If your brake lights work correctly then you can keep that one.
Click to expand...
There’s two switches behind the brake... which is the “brake control switch”? Or do you mean the servo module as joegr suggested?
 
On the 2nd gen, the top switch is the brake light switch, and the bottom switch is the cruise safety switch. I'm not sure if it is the same for the 1st gen. It is the brake light switch that has the one-time adjustment.
 
joegr said:
On the 2nd gen, the top switch is the brake light switch, and the bottom switch is the cruise safety switch. I'm not sure if it is the same for the 1st gen. It is the brake light switch that has the one-time adjustment.
Click to expand...

IMG_1383.PNG


IMG_1382.PNG
 
Well, to be fair, either one of them will stop the cruise control if the brake pedal is not pressing on them.
1F1Z-9F924-AB is the cruise control deactivation switch (redundant to the brake light switch).
XW4Z-13480-AA is the brake light switch.
I'm not sure how that translates to their numbers, and I don't recall off hand which one is blue and which one is gray.

Edit: Brake light is gray, redundant cruise is blue.
 
So brake light works fine. So check the blue, if fine then the servo would be the next route? If I’m following you correctly?
 
FWIW, my failure was a very occasional twitch in the cruise brake switch. So just checking the switch wouldn't have helped.
 
oddball said:
FWIW, my failure was a very occasional twitch in the cruise brake switch. So just checking the switch wouldn't have helped.
Click to expand...

Bypassing the switch would have confirmed it as the problem. I also suspect that a continuity check while thumping the switch would have caught it.
 
How do you bypass it? I changed both switches and servo module (junkyard pulls) and still have no cruise control.
 
BlacksonAudio said:
How do you bypass it? I changed both switches and servo module (junkyard pulls) and still have no cruise control.
Click to expand...

Unplug it and short the two wires together (temporarily only).
I doubt that this is going to be your problem. I take it that you don't have a multi-meter?
 
Never had a use for one. So I’m not even sure what I’d be looking for with it.
 
Strange action a moment ago. I click cruise control light lit but car didn’t cruise. The light lit up but the car just decelerated before light final went off.
 
Probably a bad module, but it could be wiring. The clockspring is also still a slight possibility.
 
I know for a fact I need a new module and/or Servo the damn thing pretty much crumbled and fell off my car that's Ford putting aluminum components on the LS no big deal I'm sure I'll find one online EBay is sure to have one or a salvage yard
 
AmsterDutch said:
... that's Ford putting aluminum components on the LS no big deal I'm sure I'll find one online EBay is sure to have one or a salvage yard
Click to expand...

I'm not sure about the module construction materials, but that is actually the same module that Ford used on many/most of their non-ETC vehicles for a number of years. It's one of the rare parts on the LS that was used on other cars too. (The bracket and throttle cable may be unique to the LS, I don't know.)
 
This will be interesting to say the least when Replacing the one that rusted out I'm hoping the cable connected to the throttle doesn't need to be calibrated some how or another almost just want to leave it off but I like cruise to much I have bigger fish to fry before I replace the Servo though
 
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