Installed New Pioneer Double Din - Questions

myfirstlincoln

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So I installed the new head unit and when the volume is fairly loud and I'm playing a cd, I can hear sound through the speakers in between songs (when there shouldn't be sound). I have the Pioneer AVH 3300 and infinity speakers in the doors. I think this is fairly common when using an FM transmitter or something like that but why would it do this/does anyone else have this problem?? It's not an issue - it's just annoying.

THanks for the help and pics to come tomorrow.
 
Do you have subs or anything? When I had subs and this noise would occur it was usually RCA cables.
 
It's called "white noise."
Do you have any external amps?
 
Yes, I do have an external amp (Pioneer) powering two subs in the trunk...Any way to fix this fairly easily or do I just have to live with it?
 
try different RCA cables.
You might have stretched then or there could be a break in them some where.
 
Here are a few pics...

There are a few things I didn't know of during the install (this is my first real radio install). I switched out some simple headunits a few years ago but nothing like this nor did I ever hook up an amp/sub so I'm fairly proud of myself.


Some notes:
1. Is it possible to dim the headunit like I would dim my interior lights?

2. I used Metra Axxess ASWC Universal Steering Wheel Control Interface and it works pretty well although it's not nearly as responsive as when I had the stock head unit - I kinda expected that though.

3. I'm fairly annoyed at the fact that this unit comes with bluetooth but from what I've read it appears it only works with the phone aspect and not the audio part (meaning I can't play songs through my phone via bluetooth).
I would have to buy a PIONEER CD-BTB200 Bluetooth Adapter which are running 70-100 on ebay. Not a big deal but still kinda a pain - guess I shoulda researched a bit more.

4. I don't have the delayed off - meaning as soon as I turn the car off, the head unit goes off - there isn't the delay that the stock unit had.

I know most of the things above are probably easy fixes, but a bit more reading and perhaps I'll get around to doing them. I'm just happy the thing works and I didn't screw it up. :)

doubledin1.jpg


doubledin2.jpg


doubledin3.jpg
 
I have the avic 120bt...

1. Not sure what features yours has but if there was a orange (usually) "dimmer" wire off the HU, then you should have connected that to the factory dimmer wire... It usually doesn't "dim" the amount of light, but contrast the white backrounds to black...you'll learn to live with that...

2. i've only used a PAC SWI-JACK... no problems with response

3. again not sure on your features, but most pioneers are able to BT audio

4. the power delay was built into the OEM HU. there are things that can be tapped into to retain power after shut off... IIRC the sun roof is the easiest

Here are a few pics...

There are a few things I didn't know of during the install (this is my first real radio install). I switched out some simple headunits a few years ago but nothing like this nor did I ever hook up an amp/sub so I'm fairly proud of myself.


Some notes:
1. Is it possible to dim the headunit like I would dim my interior lights?

2. I used Metra Axxess ASWC Universal Steering Wheel Control Interface and it works pretty well although it's not nearly as responsive as when I had the stock head unit - I kinda expected that though.

3. I'm fairly annoyed at the fact that this unit comes with bluetooth but from what I've read it appears it only works with the phone aspect and not the audio part (meaning I can't play songs through my phone via bluetooth).
I would have to buy a PIONEER CD-BTB200 Bluetooth Adapter which are running 70-100 on ebay. Not a big deal but still kinda a pain - guess I shoulda researched a bit more.

4. I don't have the delayed off - meaning as soon as I turn the car off, the head unit goes off - there isn't the delay that the stock unit had.

I know most of the things above are probably easy fixes, but a bit more reading and perhaps I'll get around to doing them. I'm just happy the thing works and I didn't screw it up. :)
 
Check your ground cable. I use to have two amps and when I bought my new one I left one of the old ground cables connected. Disconnecttoday ed it and the noise went away.
Make sure you have a good ground.
 
LeaSr77 - you're talking about the ground for the amp right?? I currently have it grounded using one of the bolts that holds the rear shock...
 
Best way is to drill a fresh hole, sand the paint down and put its own dedicated bolt.
 
not sure about all of the AVH models, but all of the AVIC models do have a faint white noise in the back ground, even when there is pure silence being played from a CD. at louder volumes, it can get pretty damn annoying. it has been explained to me that it has to do with the way that pioneers computer running all of the software, interfaces with the preamp. most of the other brands have a basic radio, and the nav is one of the inputs, and the radio has good sound quality. but the avics audio sources are inputs to the computer, so mater what you listen to, its going to be there. which is the reason they only gave one avic the Premier branding (which it failed to live up to) and is why there hasnt been any new Premier or Stage 4 nav systems. but this is Pioneer we are talking about, time to man the failboats.

1. Is it possible to dim the headunit like I would dim my interior lights?
not exactly, you can have the unit dim a little bit when the dash lights are on by running a illum wire from the radio to the light bulb in the ash tray. and the brightness can be adjusted through the menu.


2. I used Metra Axxess ASWC Universal Steering Wheel Control Interface and it works pretty well although it's not nearly as responsive as when I had the stock head unit - I kinda expected that though.
yup, some modles are better than others, but they all are a bit less responsive than oem


3. I'm fairly annoyed at the fact that this unit comes with bluetooth but from what I've read it appears it only works with the phone aspect and not the audio part (meaning I can't play songs through my phone via bluetooth).
I would have to buy a PIONEER CD-BTB200 Bluetooth Adapter which are running 70-100 on ebay. Not a big deal but still kinda a pain - guess I shoulda researched a bit more.
yup dumb as hell, but something the engineers at pioneer cant seem to wrap their damn heads around and only add it to a few of their models. i dont know how many of them have phones with BT but no AD2P. again just f'ing stupid


4. I don't have the delayed off - meaning as soon as I turn the car off, the head unit goes off - there isn't the delay that the stock unit had.
you will have to tap into one of the circuits that has RAP, i tapped into one of the wires for the sunroof in the pass C pillar.

1. Not sure what features yours has but if there was a orange (usually) "dimmer" wire off the HU, then you should have connected that to the factory dimmer wire... It usually doesn't "dim" the amount of light, but contrast the white backrounds to black...you'll learn to live with that...
well for staarters there is not a factory dimmer wire, the OEM radio gets its brightness setting from the can bus.


2. i've only used a PAC SWI-JACK... no problems with response
thats interesting, from the pac websight:

SWI-JACK:
Steering Wheel Control Interface for JVC, Alpine, Clarion, Kenwood, OEM, Valor & Blaupunkt Radios

are you sure that you didnt use the SWI-PS

SWI-PS:
Steering Wheel Control Interface for Pioneer, Sony Radios

and it sure as sh!t has a delay, the newer ones are better than the older ones but it is sure still there.

3. again not sure on your features, but most pioneers are able to BT audio
no they dont, only a few of pioneer's modes with the built in BT support AD2P.






now while i do seem to be pretty harsh on pioneer, i will and do still reccomend them a lot of the time, because they are a great value. you just get so much for the price they can be had for. for instance, just like the LS, i knew about all of the "normal" glitches that they come with, and when your getting them for half price, i dont mind dealing with a few glitches. even with all of the bugs, my F900 was a great radio for the little over $500 i paid for it.
 
Install looks good.

Looks like most of the questions have been answered effectively. However try grounding (the amp) directly to the battery, if the noise goes away, that is the issue. Easy test.

In fact, just ground it to the battery... lol
 
Thanks for the info everyone. And Loud, as usual, you always have great car audio info - I learn a lot. After playing with the head unit for the last few days I really like it...other than no bluetooth audio, my only major gripe is that if I I choose a selectable background for Aux mode, which is the mode that really needs a background since the display is otherwise normally blank, I can't watch video on any of the other sources unless I remove the background. So if I have any of the backgrounds on, pop in a dvd, I'll hear the dvd audio but will just see the regular background. I have to go back in and turn the background off - what a pain.

One other question...Since I have a Pioneer amp and 2 12" subs in the trunk, is there any way I can hook up regular 6x9 speakers in the rear deck rather than having the stock 6x9 subs. I already removed the stock amp and stock subs to fit my new sub box back as far as possible in the trunk but I'd sacrifice that room to get a couple more decent speakers in the car - I currently have Infinity speakers in the doors.
 
I stand corrected... I thought I had mentioned in the beginning that this unit was installed in my expedition. which I believe has a true (dimmer) wire... i guess i could be wrong.... and you are correct with the PAC SWI-PS, which again (in my expedition) has no delay.... maybe the truck is set up a little different than the LS with controls. Thank you for correcting me...
 
the expedition waited a lot longer to switch to can controlled radios. for most fords, they kept the radio systems the same until the late 2000's, (which they should have done with the LS) most of the time the retained accessory power still functions.



looks like you got lucky, i havent had any SWI models work exactly like the factory ones. its not so much a delay in the time it takes to send the command, but more of how much longer you have to hold the button down, ist not much, but even fractions of a second seems like forever when you go from instant.
 
very true.... i suppose the only buttons i really mess with would be volume. and with the long range of the volume scale, im usually holding it down anyways.

You can always add more speakers... worst case just run speaker wire from the "REAR L/R" of the HU to new 6x9 in the back. Without running a new amp, and not knowing what you HU output is, it might not be much, but def should sound better.
 

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