Key Fob Replacement

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PghBlkLS

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Bought my '06 last week and got the itch to do SOMETHING given the season and weather. When I had my 2007 Mustang, I came to really dislike this (mostly because I kept breaking off the tab that kept it on my key ring):

2013-12-14 18.19.58.jpg

So I replaced it with this (just like I did with my Mustang):

2013-12-14 18.20.22.jpg

Its a Fusion/Zephyr/MKZ key. and all four buttons work. And my LS starts (wiping sweat from brow). You can program the memory settings as well.

Just a few notes:
  • Before you get the key cut or programmed, make sure it slides into the ignition
  • Program the buttons next ... you don't want to pay for it if the buttons don't work
  • Have the key cut and make sure it starts the car ... this can be the tricky part.

Works perfectly for me (ymmv). Had mine done at the dealer when I was having the car checked for a few other little things.

Happy I did it and would recommend you doing it if you want a "cleaner" key + remote.

2013-12-14 18.19.58.jpg


2013-12-14 18.20.22.jpg
 
thats sweet man , i might do this with a volkwagon flip key and see how it turns out
 
2005_LS_V8 said:
Cool! Can I ask what the cost was?
Click to expand...

Being that I was Mr. I Want It Right Now and could not wait to order online, I know I paid more than I should have. But, the cost broke out to be: $125. for the blank and $42. to program and cut it. You can get the blanks online for about $85. + shipping and it will include programming instructions. Either a locksmith or the dealer can cut it for you.

Hope that helps.
 
Can you update on this if you do it? I have a newer switchblade key from a passat and want to try it out too.
 
usafguy69 said:
Can you update on this if you do it? I have a newer switchblade key from a passat and want to try it out too.
Click to expand...

I am not sure it will work ... but, if the key slides into the ignition, you have a pretty good shot at making it work. Not sure how their programming works.

My first concern, as I mentioned, are the grooves on the key allowing it into the ignition block.
 
PghBlkLS said:
I am not sure it will work ... but, if the key slides into the ignition, you have a pretty good shot at making it work. Not sure how their programming works.

My first concern, as I mentioned, are the grooves on the key allowing it into the ignition block.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's probably just a waste of time I'm just going to order one from eBay.
 
yea thats a good looking key , i wonder where he got the little lincoln symbol on it
 
PghBlkLS said:
Reading the details of the ad:

**Lincoln LS not Self Programmable. Dealer/Locksmith Only**
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Ghost_Ls8 said:
I wonder why that is
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The seller has that in all their Lincoln LS compatible remote ads (at least all those I have read) I just bought a set of these...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181271961140?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

And programmed them to my '04 with no problem.

Last week I even wrote them and mentioned that 00-02 is dealer only, but 03-06 can be done by the buyer. I backed it up with a link too and exact page number in the Owners Manual. Pointed out that changing the listing may bring more sales.

They simply replied with "Thanks for the feedback" and nothing has changed in the ads
 
Now if I could just get my LS to except a second key :mad: I might give one of these other options a try.
 
Ghost_Ls8 said:
why cant yours accept it ?
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When I bought the car the PO only had 1 key and 1 remote, so I bought a second key online. Then made arrangements with a friend on one of his days off to take it in and program it. Met him at his house then drove to the dealership he works for (Ford Tech.) He ran it through the programming sequence a total of four times. Two attempts with the cheap key, then we decided to risk it and delete all the keys in memory. Reprogramed the original key worked without a problem, but once again the new one failed.

Fairly confident that it is a bad key, but neither of us had the time remaining to try it again. So the tentative plan (without further and proper troubleshooting) is to try it again after a fresh battery we'll give it another shot. If it fails again I will just get a new key from the dealer.

Of course this all took place in early '13... we've just not had the time, at the same time, to revisit it. Maybe after the holidays pass, we'll be able to work it out.
 
Old thread but... I need more keys. I have a good key/fob set, a valet key, and fob that doesn't work. Chances are I just need it programmed (Gen 1, so dealer only). Working for a Ford dealer and all, I can probably get it programmed for free. I figure while I'm at it, I may as well try some new keys since ALL 5 of my Ford fobs are broken, missing one keychain loop of the shell. First off, I'd like to move to a Gen 2 key (rectangular instead of lumpy trapezoid). I can't imagine why that would be a problem. If you can replace it with a next-decade one piece key, a next year key should be fine, right?

Has anyone used an eBay flip key? Someone said theirs broke after 6 months, but what about anyone else? And how did it break?

VW style ~2005?: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...akeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

Flatter, cleaner, but more expensive: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...akeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

I would probably like the replacement key that started this thread if I didn't work for Ford. I drive all the new cars (like a Raptor and a Roush Stage 3 Mustang today!) and associate that particular key with the Explorer, Edge, Mustang, and F-150, being they use that style. The older similar key with circular buttons is now a cheap Focus/Fiesta/Escape key. I'm probably being too picky. You can ask me all about being a lot attendant/swap driver though. I prefer the title "Exterior Asset and Local Import/Export Manager"
 
it really does depend on the specific keys you're using, ford does have a couple of different kinds of chipped keys (the chipped part being the important difference) so not all ford keys will work in all cars...

for example newer 80bit keys are backwards compatible and can work in some(dont really know which will and which wont) 40bit cars, but a 40bit key will not work in an 80bit car...


also that second key is a mazda style, I can say that probably near half of the mazdas I work on come in with broken switchblades... I can only imagine a cheaper ebay version is only going to be more likely to break. its always fun to try to start a car when the blade of the key is flopping around all loosey goosey because the spring decided it was going on strike... or the two pieces are taped together because the tabs that hold it together snapped off.
 
So if I decide to take a chance on a flip key, carry a spare in the car for *when* it breaks. Thanks, got it. The VW key is cheap enough to take a chance on so I'll probably order that and a Gen 2 key set.
 
you shouldnt have to carry a spare key, the blade itself won't break so youll still be able to at least manually unlock the doors and start the engine.
 
Posted to the entirely wrong forum (LvC and TaurusClub are both bluish) and I can't figure out how to delete this post. So if any mods want to delete it, go ahead. Otherwise, oops.

While I'm here, I got my 03-06 LS OEM key, the rounder VW-looking flipkey, and 2 remotes in the mail. Hopefully tomorrow at work I'll be back with results as to whether or not they work in my 02. One of the perks to working at a Ford dealer. Cut and program for probably $35. They'd charge probably $125 (an hour) for a regular customer.
 
Yeah be nice to find someone willing to offer a bit of a break on a key programing around here... I have just one key right now :(
 
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