My Mark VIII door keyless pad entry doesn't work, I like to go to the park and do a little walking so I like to leave my keys in my trunk, now I can't do that, they will work once I step on the brake or start the car, and they stay working for a little while after I stop the car how long they work you may ask, the shortest time I realize was about 3 to 5 minute, one day I forgot my key in the car, I lock the door via key pad, as I was walking away I remember my keys were still in the car, lucky for me the keyless didn't shut down instantly, that happen to me at work. Have any ideas..
keyless entry
- Thread starter Rope
- Start date
Moes8
Dedicated LVC Member
Hey guys,is there some way his car is powering down from a battery drain to save the battery?
my only tought here
Mike
my only tought here
Mike
JoeyLincolnMK8
Dedicated LVC Member
if was caused by a power drain in the battery, wouldnt his remote also not work???
S
scott9050
Guest
Rope said:
Either the keypad itself is bad, or the module in the trunk is bad. When you find out the problem, let me know, I have both parts from my wrecked 96 and will help you out cheap.
When you say bad, do you mean not working because they work as long power is going to it, when I pull on the door handel the intaria light don't come on, I will use the key to open the door, I will step on the brake then the intaria light will come on and the keypad will work without no douth, I always use the keypad to lock the doors when I get out of my car.
S
scott9050
Guest
Rope said:
Didn't see that. Strange problem.
Moes8
Dedicated LVC Member
so does your remote key fob work before you get in?
also,i wasnt talking about a bad battery.
these cars,like most all newer cars have a protection circuit that trips if something in the car is pulling more than basic standby power,like if a light is left on(or a high resistance short possible in this case)
i think it triggers after approx 10 minutes and if i am right the circuit will not re-energize until a "manual" action is taken,kinda like manually opening door with key and manually pressing brake pedal yada-yada,
now if you key fob works then i dont know,
sorry
Mike
also,i wasnt talking about a bad battery.
these cars,like most all newer cars have a protection circuit that trips if something in the car is pulling more than basic standby power,like if a light is left on(or a high resistance short possible in this case)
i think it triggers after approx 10 minutes and if i am right the circuit will not re-energize until a "manual" action is taken,kinda like manually opening door with key and manually pressing brake pedal yada-yada,
now if you key fob works then i dont know,
sorry
Mike
annjanne
New LVC Member
I had a wonderful 1995 that Ford (finally) bought back (in 97) because the keyless entry intermittently locked me out. This week I finally replaced the car with a 98 toreador red LSC with EVERYTHING including garage door opener, phone, moon roof, keyless entry, AND Octastar wheels. $8500.00, 67,000 miles.
JRMARK8
Well-Known LVC Member
HEY FROGMAN I FOUND A OLD THREAD WITH THE SAME PROBLEM THAT I HAVE,IT LIKE NOBODY CAME UP WITH A GOOD ANSWER. I WAS WONDERING IF YOU COULD HELP.THANKSRope said:
John Hubertz
Well-Known LVC Member
I'm betting it is the protection kicking in - a battery can be marginal on voltage yet have fine amperage to start the car etc. I don't think the remote radio transmitter circuit is controlled by this, but I know the keyless and interior light circuit is.
A quick way to test this would be to put a jumper or a trickle charger on the battery and then play with the keypad over a period of time, if it stays working there is your problem - the other alternative to a weak battery voltage is the ECU might be shutting off a little early - cutting off at 12.5 volts or so instead of waiting for (can't remember the exact spec) voltage to fall to the normal preset point.
Weak voltage is hard to detect from using a car - everything will pretty much work except electronic stuff that can get gremlins. The instant you start the car your alternator will make up the difference.
A quick way to test this would be to put a jumper or a trickle charger on the battery and then play with the keypad over a period of time, if it stays working there is your problem - the other alternative to a weak battery voltage is the ECU might be shutting off a little early - cutting off at 12.5 volts or so instead of waiting for (can't remember the exact spec) voltage to fall to the normal preset point.
Weak voltage is hard to detect from using a car - everything will pretty much work except electronic stuff that can get gremlins. The instant you start the car your alternator will make up the difference.
bufordtpisser
Dedicated LVC Member
Same issue
I have recently run into the same issue. Door pad works intermittantly. Remote always works. I have a yellow top that is never below 13.5 volts. I will be looking into this issue more closely as soon as it warms up. Until then, no keys left in the car.
I have recently run into the same issue. Door pad works intermittantly. Remote always works. I have a yellow top that is never below 13.5 volts. I will be looking into this issue more closely as soon as it warms up. Until then, no keys left in the car.
John Hubertz
Well-Known LVC Member
In a few weeks I'll have a good "test" doorpad for you guys to play with - mine has the numbers rubbed off and I've bought a replacement.
Also, my driver's door lock button (interior door panel button) is intermittent - anybody ever run into this? Lock or unlock, it sometimes takes 7 or 10 tries before it cycles the locks. I bought a spare from the same source, but Í've got my suspicion this won't fix it.....
Also, my driver's door lock button (interior door panel button) is intermittent - anybody ever run into this? Lock or unlock, it sometimes takes 7 or 10 tries before it cycles the locks. I bought a spare from the same source, but Í've got my suspicion this won't fix it.....