Lost rear lights/cruise control

badbolr

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Hi people. Hey, drove about 150 miles on the highway yesterday. When I return to my car about 3 hrs later can't get it out of park. Guess we have this system which prevents moving the gearshift knob if the brake lights are inop. Using the override in the manual I got home, but without any rear lights, brake lights or cruise control. Both worked for sure when I left. And I don't recall anything smelling or occuring to tell me something went wrong.

Obvious thing to suspect was a fuse, which the 97 manual says #1 fuse runs both brake lights, cruise, climate control blower and something else. SInce only 2 of the 4 things listed were inop I figured it was not the fuse. And it wasn't... the fuse was good. Fuse diagram in the manual didn't match my fuse box, so in addition to #1, I checked all 10amp fuses. All were good.

Anyone have an idea what happened? Appreciate any advice.
 
Does the 3rd brakelight also not work? How about the turn signals?
 
be carefull could cause a fire here is what happen to another guy from a different forum
Well it finally happened my cruise control quit working about 5 days ago. Didnt think much of it. Well I'm sure some of you remember I was having trouble with the fuse that controlled the CC and the brake lights. Ok today I get in my car and the fuse was blown cause it wouldnt shift out of park. I replaced and went on my way, everytime I park the car it wont shift out of park. So I used about 3 fuses and on the 4th I put a new one in and apply the brakes, then I check the fuse and it's blown. I figure something is really wrong. I put one more fuse in to test it and hold down the break well the second I applied them white acrid smoke starts coming from my engine bay, I pop the hood and there is a small fire just underneath my master cylinder and brake booster. The car is off and the fire is still going. Lucky for me I was at work and a fire extingusher was nearby. I get the fire put out and drove the car home, without fuse number 11 or it could be 10 dont remember. Also no brake lights. Now its sitting in my yard away from my house. I just read this thread by red_eye ( http://www.markviii.org/htdocs/dc/d...pic&forum=20&topic_id=3828&mesg_id=3828&page= ) and it says that the CC deactivator will not cause fire in marks. WRONG I believe this is the cause of mine, now how do I disconnect the damn thing so I can drive my car and have brake lights without it catching fire? I do not care about CC anymore I just want to be sure it wont happen again. Once again any and help is appreciated. Sorry for the long post.

hope this helps
 
Alright... diagnosis, blown ballast in rear lighting assembly. Must replace entire rear light system. Parts $800 from the dealer!!! And, hopefully, my ECM is not blown too... another $600! I think I'm done with the Mark. Just too costly to operate. TRanny shudder, blend door, head lamp and now a $1500 fix for blown lights! Damn, what car has this type crap go wrong so often. I'm bummed.
 
ECM blown why?

don't get down about the mark, i spent 15 000 on a mercedes that i no longer drive. now THATs a lot of money on repairs.
 
badbolr said:
Alright... diagnosis, blown ballast in rear lighting assembly. Must replace entire rear light system. Parts $800 from the dealer!!! And, hopefully, my ECM is not blown too... another $600! I think I'm done with the Mark. Just too costly to operate. TRanny shudder, blend door, head lamp and now a $1500 fix for blown lights! Damn, what car has this type crap go wrong so often. I'm bummed.


There is a guy on one of the other board who parts out these cars on Ebay and would probably have this part quite a bit cheaper. Never pay dealer prices, a used computer is about $50, I have seen the assembly go fairly cheap as well.
 
dunno... didn't try it before I took it to the shop. All I noticed was cruise and rear light deck. I took it to two shops [since the est was so high] told the both the same thing and they both diagnosed the same fix. One a dealer the other a local shop with a good reputation. As far as the ECM, I can't relay the entire reason they said {i glossed out after the $1k fix for lights} something that works on my 40 year old classic without ever being repaired}.

But they said the ECM may be impacted something to do with the short of the ballast. He doubted it, but wasn't sure.

What has me really down is I still face the blend door fix [hope it is a permanent fix] and then what, if I lose a headlight, another $800. Hell, I should have just bought a new luxury veh if I'm going to shell out $800 per mo...
 
There is a guy on another site that sells a kit for like $90 for the ballast. Several of the members over there have purchased the kit and LOVE it. Here is the link to his site, info about it, and how to order. This will save you ALOT of money on the ballast......like $700 savings.

Hope this helps.....
:Beer
 
the fuse for the horn and the cruise control is the same in my 94. this is why i asked you if the horn was working. if it isn;t, check the fuse, inexpensive fix.
 
Yeah, don't give up on the car yet. I did the blend door actuator motor on my car (similar to what you have to do, a bit different because 1st gens have no arm) and it only took me about 5 hours total taking breaks in between from start to finish. There is a step by step instruction guide with pictures on several sites. With a ton of parts cars out there used parts are cheap.
 
badbolr said:
Thanks... but too late for me since I authorized the mechanic to replace it. Wish I would have seen it sooner...

You can tell him no still. You may have to pay for the shipping of the part if it was something that the local dealership does not have in stock......the mechanic will get over it.....if not, then go somewheres else. :Beer
 
Update... part wasn't in so my Mech is going to contact the ballast guy and see if it will work for us. Might have to pay a restock fee... but 10-15% of $800 still puts me WAY ahead!!!

THanks!
 
badbolr said:
Update... part wasn't in so my Mech is going to contact the ballast guy and see if it will work for us. Might have to pay a restock fee... but 10-15% of $800 still puts me WAY ahead!!!

THanks!


Glad I could help, just too bad you did not read this before you ordered the parts........but like you said, you are WAY ahead. :Beer
 

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