lower block interchanable on 3.9 ls

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austin

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I blew a rod threw the side of the lower block on my ls everything else is ok just need to know if I can change the lower block out with another one?
 
All2kool said:
Isn't that what a Short Block is?
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Yes, but not everyone knows the exact terms. I only learned what a short block is about 5 months ago. I had previously assumed it was similar to big/small block differences.

austin said:
I blew a rod threw the side of the lower block on my ls everything else is ok just need to know if I can change the lower block out with another one?
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Yes, you can, presumably as long as it's from the same generation. I know at least rod big end diameter sizes changed in 03 according to SVT. But the question would be why did it throw a rod? I don't think finding a short block would be easier or cheaper than a junkyard engine...
 
I got the same engine from the junk yard the block is a two peace designe that holds the crank I blew a hole in the lower peace can I take that off the other engine? The the two peaces were bored together so switching them would probably mess with the tolerances right?
 
since you have to pull the old motor out regardless, why not just drop the new(er) engine right in instead of tearing them both down and putting one back together?
 
austin said:
I got the same engine from the junk yard the block is a two peace designe that holds the crank I blew a hole in the lower peace can I take that off the other engine? The the two peaces were bored together so switching them would probably mess with the tolerances right?
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What you are calling the "lower piece" or "lower block" is actually called the "sump body." AFAIK, it's replaceable. This covers the sealant, torque, and torque sequence to use: http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x31035.htm~gen~ref.htm It starts at step 47.
I, too, would just swap the whole engine.
 
If I understand your terminology, I believe you are talking about the casting that contains what would otherwise be the main bearing caps. This is NOT a simple bolt-on replacement. The block and the piece in question would undoubtedly have been line-bored and honed as a unit and such a procedure would be necessary again if you make a change.

If you are talking about the sump casting the change would be a simple bolt-on.

KS
 
1LoudLS said:
since you have to pull the old motor out regardless, why not just drop the new(er) engine right in instead of tearing them both down and putting one back together?
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Most junkyards have no idea how many miles are on the cars. You could be getting a 50,000 mile engine or a 200,000 mile engine. It's not a clear cut decision, but I can at least see why someone would want their original stuff. But if one rod already shot through the block, I guess a full mystery engine couldn't really be that much worse
 
LSFrank said:
Most junkyards have no idea how many miles are on the cars. You could be getting a 50,000 mile engine or a 200,000 mile engine. It's not a clear cut decision, but I can at least see why someone would want their original stuff. But if one rod already shot through the block, I guess a full mystery engine couldn't really be that much worse
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this part would be key in my decision...
 
Yes in talking about the main cap piece do you know the torque specs for the bolts?
 
dude calm down...

if somebody doesn't answer you in 2 minutes, you just need to wait longer...
 
I didn't understand that Autozone specs. Is it saying incrementally tighten them all up in 4 or 5 steps where it lists NA?
 
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