lowering car?

marco93L

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How much can you lower the LS and still get a good ride without alot of modifications?

I am thinking about trying to get it to sit maybe 1.5" lower than it is factory.

Is there anykind of sway bar changes, stops, CC plates, lowering shocks and struts, ect that you need to get or is it a set of springs and that is it?

Also, what is your input on cutting the factory springs?
If so, how much will a full round lower the car?

Thanks
Marco
 
cutting springs is always bad, it ruins the temperment of the steel and can severely weaken the metal. With that said, many people do it, but it tends to make for a harsh ride. Its almost not worth it since alot of springs will only run 150$.

Some people get camber bolts to correct the alignment afterwards, but most just get away with the springs.
 
I have the Eiback Pro kit for the Cobra. It is a very nice kit, but it did make for a harder ride than what I would like for the Ls. I drive the car 150 miles every day.

If I was to cut the spring, I would take my time and cut it with a cutoff wheel, not the torch.
 
no.

for the most part shock deal with the dampining of the suspenion travel on the veritcal axis.

for the most part springs set the ride height of the vehicle and somewhat control the roll.

it all works together as a package, but you can lower the car by simply using lowering spring and then delaing with the camber issue with an alignment (somewhat).

Lowering spring use a progressive winding, and therefore increase the tension as they are squeezed, designed to limit the travel crush to the same spec as the OEM spring. If you simply cut the spring you loose not only the height, by some of the force of the spring and will more likely bottom out than if you used a properly designed lowering spring.
 
no.


Lowering spring use a progressive winding, and therefore increase the tension as they are squeezed, designed to limit the travel crush to the same spec as the OEM spring. If you simply cut the spring you loose not only the height, by some of the force of the spring and will more likely bottom out than if you used a properly designed lowering spring.

Thanks, you made a very strong point there. I will just go ahead and buy a set of springs.

Do you how low I can go without messing with camber bolts and still get a true alignment.

Thanks again
Marco
 
Thanks, you made a very strong point there. I will just go ahead and buy a set of springs.

Do you how low I can go without messing with camber bolts and still get a true alignment.

Thanks again
Marco

Zero. The rear camber is already pretty much maxed out and has no adjustment. Actually, you could probably go 1/2" and still be in spec without the adjustment kit (only bolts for the front). I was at ~1 3/4" and the rears were at -1º and I used the bolts for the front. I didn't notice any appreciable extra wear on the outside of the tires. Then again, with ~32# pressure I wore out the centers of the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S' in ~12K miles. The edges looked fine.

If you don't fix the camber, I would rotate the tires every 5K miles (do that anyway); and if they are directional, I would have the rights and lefts swapped every 10K. Sounds crazy and expensive, but that should get you the best wear on the tires.

YMMV
 
just want to let you guys know, when I took my eibach springs off, the menroe shocks I bought and installed with eibachs were shot. Fortunately, they were all under warrantee from napa.
 
just want to let you guys know, when I took my eibach springs off, the menroe shocks I bought and installed with eibachs were shot. Fortunately, they were all under warrantee from napa.

Lowering will also put extra stress on the ball joints and they will fail early.
 

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