LS battery dying everynight :(

MysticMac

MysticMac

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Recently, I have been parking my car in the back (closer to my bedroom window ;)) due to my battery and being afraid of my double din getting stolen. I have had issues with the "door ajar" sensor in the latch killing my battery. I solved the problem(maybe not) by following a video on youtube on bending back a tab in side the latch mechanism so it contacts better when the door. It has worked like a charm ever since. I do not have a door ajar prompt on the gauge though and it seems to be working fine. What else could be killing my battery if lets say the door latch wasnt the issue?

How does one test for parasitic drains?
 
I have had it happen when power seat on Mercury Marquis developed a current draw. I look at circuits that are live when switch is off, like power seats,mirrors. don-ohio :)^)
 
I took my 2003 TBird to a dealer, and they identified the problem quickly. AC/Control head.

That's the good news.

The bad news, took them almost a year to find a new part.
 
The alternative is supposedly good, but does that imply the battery is good as well?

To see if you have a parasitic draw, you'll need to insert an ammeter (multimeter) in between the battery and cable, then pull fuses one by one until the current draw drops. An important note is that you'll need to wait half an hour from The last action or else the car will be awake. That means open the trunk, open the door, and open the hood, insert the ammeter, then wait. The LED trunk light (replaced the incandescentt) I have makes it really easy to tell when the car goes to sleep because it stops glowing at that point
 
pulling some fuses may result in something waking up and having to restart the waiting process.
 
Good point. Mystic, I saw in your other post that you have LED license plate lights. They probably glow when off/awake. So if you wake the car back up, they will start glowing again
 
What FDR and 1LoudLS said. If it's draining your battery overnight then it's going to be a fairly good sized draw like a couple amps at least. Should be easy to find once you get the car to go to 'sleep'.

Make sure you unplug any accessories you have in the car from the 12v power points. Last thing you need is to spend hours tracking down the issue to find the current was for the USB charger that was charging your phone.

You mentioned you have a double-din aftermarket radio. For ****s and giggles have you tried pulling the fuse for it and any amps you have in the car? That'd be easy to test overnight other then it might wipe your radio settings.
 
Kumba said:
other then it might wipe your radio settings.
Click to expand...

My JVC saves the radio presets, but wipes the color/lighting settings, Source option settings (I removed AM), and I believe the crossover settings, then starts up in demo mode. Apparently having *everything* saved is too much to ask
 
It helps if you say which fuse box. There's a fuse 20 in the trunk, and a fuse 20 in the cabin. The one in the cabin goes to:
DATC - climate control - It could be this. It's happened. Also note that a bad DCCV or air door actuator might cause the DATC to stay awake and run the battery down.
Cluster - the gauges
FEM - Front Electronics Module - Could be this, maybe if water has leaked into it. It could also be that it is staying awake due to a bad door switch or something like that
REM - Rear Electronics Module - Note that this controls power for most of the car. If you shut the REM down, it could be the problem load is elsewhere, but without the REM powered, the problem can't be powered either.
 
sorry joegr.. its the cabin fuse #20 ... My dccv fuse under the hood is blown. And ive had intermittent problems with my door switch... you thinking its those two ?
 
So I replaced the fuse that has something to do with the dccv under the hood that blew. Now doing a amp test again it jumped up to 10 amps when I replaced the fuse. I removed it and it jumped back to about 1 .2 amps meaning I probably have two problems. DCCV and the door switch.
 
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