Mark VIII Service/Shop Manual

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brendangillespie

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Well, I think I'm going to replace the head gaskets on my '98 Mark VIII LSC myself, and save $1500 in labor. My question is, what does everyone recommend as far as a shop/service manual that has instructions on how to do this? I know of the Chilton and Haynes books... Any recommendations anyone can give me as to what book to buy for this would be great!

Also, while I'm on the subject, where should I get the new head gaskets and head bolts? Also what type and brand?

Thanks for the help!!!
:yourock:

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i first bought the chilton manual, boy did that thing suck (it was for all lincolns but VERY little on the Mark VIII...) so I got me the service manuals on that one big auction site, the service manual (2 volumes) plus the evtm to boot....as for were to get the gaskets/bolts, just buy the OEM stuff
 
pages

94m5 said:
Tell you what......If you can wait till tomorrow afternoon, I will go down to the garage, grab my factory service manual and scan everything you need. then e-mail them to you. Will that work for ya?


Edit....this is what they will look like....http://community.webshots.com/photo/347930993/347933338hgNvxc
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That would be awesome! I need any sections pertaining to replacing the head gaskets, and anything else you think I might need that would help me while replacing them.... thanks!

brendangillespie@hotmail.com
 
Head Gaskets and Bolts

Anybody out there know what kind of head gaskets and bolts I should get (i.e. what brand, size, type, where to get it, all that...)? I've been told that while I can go OEM, that there are better quality, performance head gaskets out there... any recommendations anyone? Thanks
 
Sorry man...I got REALLY busy trying to get to the meet yesterday. I'll get them for you tomorrow. BTW....Ford OEM on your parts.




Mike
 
One other thought, if you go to the auction site _ Bay, you should find adleast manuals on CD (FOMOCO) that peeps are selling. I use this and the factory manual as there are times I print up off the disc and take it into the garage so that ny hard copy is still readable (Greasy paws).
 
getting it painted

k9t8m said:
Where is your grill?
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Did have it at a paint shop to get painted, but now I've changed my mind and am going to get a custom grill from customcargrill.com.
 
The factory manuals are printed and distributed by Helms.

http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?r=

But be prepared to get your wallet out. The best ain't cheap!! By the way, they often times offer them on cd/dvd too.

As to what head gaskets to use...find out what the compressed thickness is of your old gaskets when you take them off. Then buy gaskets that will compress to the same dimension. Felpro always makes good stuff...just make sure it's not too much thicker and absolutely NO thinner!!! That's why OEM gaskets are usually your best bet. As to bolts...you have two choices imo...factory torque to yields or ARP. I wouldn't consider anything else. The ARP fasteners are cold rolled threads and are re-usable. The factory units aren't. It wouldn't surprise me to see you pay over $150 for ARP bolts from Summit.
 
manual/head gaskets

brendangillespie said:
Anybody out there know what kind of head gaskets and bolts I should get (i.e. what brand, size, type, where to get it, all that...)? I've been told that while I can go OEM, that there are better quality, performance head gaskets out there... any recommendations anyone? Thanks
Click to expand...
For your your year service manual go to Books4cars on the web. They have all the MarkVIII service manuals for about 70$. It will be the thickest of the three manuals: one is for electronics, another is for body and interior, and the one you want is the service manual for your year. It will have a black and grey cover saying 1998 or so service manual on it. Now for the head gaskets I listen to Sean Hyland. He recomends part number 1L2Z-6051-EA/FA for the '93 to '98 aluminum block, aluminum head combo. This is the latest upgrade to MLS(multy layer steel) factory gaskets. The originals had a problem with leaking oil at the cylinder head to bkock interface near the oil passage. Make sure you follow the ford torque specs and tighten them and loosen them a couple times before you go for the final torque reading, If you do that you will never have a gesket blow out. Skid Mark
 
when torqueing take the bolts to 50 percent then 70 percent then full torque be sure and use the right pattern for the motor. also be careful when setting the cams timeing,clearance its nil and it needs to be right.
 
torqueing heads

This is not a small block cast iron motor. When you get your service manual you will see that FORD has a six step torque sequence that must be followed!! Talking about torque, 75% of the enrgy in a torque value goes to defeating the friction between the bolt and the head. To that end, the bolts should be torqued and loosened a minimun of three times each. This will work the lube (I use SAE 30 oil) into the threads and under the head of the bolt. I use a stretch gage to determine the amount of torque needed to reach the required stretch of each bolt, but if you get new bolts, or studs (ARP 256-5701) and follow the FORD torque specs you will be fine. Changing the head gaskets on a modular motor is not for the meek, if you are not a serious mechanic I would not recomend doing it yourself. I am a professional engine builder and have built many modular motors for drag racing customers. The internet, being as it is, you are going to hear alot of different theories on every subject put out there. This one you need to do your homework on before starting. Gleen what you can from other sources, but get the Ford manual and follow the instuctions to the letter and you should be okay. Skid Mark
 
head gaskets

Skid Mark said:
This is not a small block cast iron motor. When you get your service manual you will see that FORD has a six step torque sequence that must be followed!! Talking about torque, 75% of the enrgy in a torque value goes to defeating the friction between the bolt and the head. To that end, the bolts should be torqued and loosened a minimun of three times each. This will work the lube (I use SAE 30 oil) into the threads and under the head of the bolt. I use a stretch gage to determine the amount of torque needed to reach the required stretch of each bolt, but if you get new bolts, or studs (ARP 256-5701) and follow the FORD torque specs you will be fine. Changing the head gaskets on a modular motor is not for the meek, if you are not a serious mechanic I would not recomend doing it yourself. I am a professional engine builder and have built many modular motors for drag racing customers. The internet, being as it is, you are going to hear alot of different theories on every subject put out there. This one you need to do your homework on before starting. Gleen what you can from other sources, but get the Ford manual and follow the instuctions to the letter and you should be okay. Skid Mark
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Well, I'm not going to do it myself, I finally found a place that will do it for a reasonable price (plus I'm getting a hookup there) but I have the shop manual on CD if anyone wants a copy... let me know..

BTW, I bought the valve timing kit for the head gasket job, but now I don't need it, it's brand new, if you are interested:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...d=1,1&item=4573928705&sspagename=STRK:MESE:IT

Brendan
 
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