Misfire and stalling problems after repairing valve cover gaskets and COP

berny

LVC Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2016
Messages
40
Reaction score
0
Location
Burien
Hello all.

I just registered today but have been lurking for several months reading threads. Let me start by thanking everyone for all the helpful information that they have posted. It has been vital to keep my Lincoln running.

My lady friend bought a 2000 V8 Lincoln LS last September from my Grandparents. I was an ideal one-owner-driven-once-a-week-to-the-grocery-store type situation and the car only has 70k miles on it. We are really happy to have such a nice luxury car!

A couple months after we bought it we started to have problems with the car. It started with an obvious loss of power when accelerated to freeway speeds, and not long after the check engine light came on. I got the code read at autozone and learned it was a misfire in a cylinder on the drivers side cylinder bank. After some googling and research here (again, thank you) I learned that it was likely one or more ignition coils that had gone bad. I bought a set of 8 new coils on amazon for $70 or so dollars went to replace the 4 coils on the drivers side. When I got in there I found that they were covered in oil, after more research here I found that the valve cover seal had gone bad. I bought a new one and ended up replacing the coils, spark plugs (non motorcraft but still compatible autozone assured me, which I foolishly believed) and the valve cover seal on the drivers side. That fixed the problem. The car ran fine for a month but then started to have the same symptoms as before. I assumed that now the passenger side valve cover seal and COPs had gone bad and it was time to fix them. I took it to autozone to get the code read and the computer told me it was a cylinder 1 and 6 misfire. I was a little nervous because cylinder 6 was on the drivers side but some research told me that the onboard computer was guessing at which cylinder was misfiring and just because it said 6 didn't necessarily mean that 6 was misfiring. So about a month ago I changed the valve cover seal, COPs and spark plugs on the passenger side. The coils definitely had oil them so the valve cover gasket was bad. I cleaned out the oil the best I could. At this point all the COPs and plugs are new. The car ran great for a couple weeks and I assumed I had solved the problem. Then about a week ago my lady friend tells me that the car is stalling! She says that it is idling rough and occasionally at a stoplight it will idle down and die. It always starts back up, but this is a problem I need to solve. A day or two later I took a look at the car and saw the check engine light was on. The following codes were stored, I don't have the numbers but I think they are the same as the ones below. Cylinder one misfire, cylinder six misfire, Misfire monitor, and Advancetrac something (which I take is just informational and may not be relevant to my situation). At this point I am very confused, cylinder one was read as misfiring when the COP was covered in oil, and also again when it had a new plug and coil and valve cover gasket. I had him clear the codes. I bought a new (motorcraft this time) spark plug and went home. I switched the #1 and#2 coil to see if maybe my Amazon purchased coil had already failed, and switched out the brand new off brand spark plug with the motorcraft one. No discernible change in the cars operation, and the CEL stayed off for a couple of days and came back on. I had it checked again and this time I wrote down the codes. They are as follows C1963 Stability control inhibit, P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire, P1000 Monitor test incomplete, P1100 Mass Airflow sensor intermittent, P1309 Misfire Moniter not enabled. The ones that jumped out at me were the Cylinder 6 Misfire and the MAF one. I read on this forum that a faulty MAF could cause the idle and stalling problem the car is experiencing. I also noticed that while Cylinder 6 was still misfiring, Cylinder one was not, so either swapping the COP or putting in a motorcraft spark plug solved that problem. Armed with this new information I replaced the MAF. My lady friend claimed that the car ran better, but was STILL having the stalling problem. That brings us up to the present. I would like to fix the misfiring cylinders and the stalling problem. I have also taken an unlit propane torch to look for a vacuum leak but have not found one. I understand misfires could also be caused by fuel injectors, but the autozone dude said that if they were faulty they would store a code. I am hoping the vast knowledge base here will help me answer some questions.

Is there some problem that will cause misfires AND stalling while idling?
According the code the MAF was bad, but I replaced it and the car is still stalling, could the computer take time to re learn the proper air and fuel mixture after replacing the MAF, and is there a way to help it along in that process?
Is there a particular vacuum connection I could focus on that commonly fails?
I understand that the next thing that could be faulty and needing replaced is the Idle Air Control valve. Is there a way to test it before I spend 100+ on a part I may not need? Is it possible that the MAF and misfires are related to the IACV? I find it hard to believe the MAF and the IACV both failed simultaneously.
What am I missing? What do I do next? Any and all help and advice would be greatly appreciated.

Right now the CEL is back on and I am going to take it to get the codes read. I am assuming they will be the same as above when I had it read last week. A motor craft plug seemed to fix the Cylinder 1 misfire, so if 6 is still misfiring today I will replace the plug, and probably the whole driver side bank with Motorcraft plugs.
 
Last edited:
1. You need to replace all the coils with new Motorcraft ones!
2. You need to replace all the spark plugs (again) with new ones and set the gaps to 1.0mm (don't care what the box says about them already being set).
3. Autozone dude is wrong. (If he really knew anything about it, he wouldn't be working at Autozone.) A fuel injector issue will usually only set the same misfire code as an ignition problem. Check the fuel injector connectors.
4. There is no re-learn you need to worry about for the MAF. Anyway, every time you have cleared the codes, it has forced a relearn (which is more or less continuous anyway).
5. Your cats may be starting to suffer by now.
 
1. Really? It is hard for me to accept that the ones I bought on amazon came faulty but I guess I should have known better. That is good advice and I will follow it.
2. I was going to do the driver side bank tonight anyway, if you think it is important I might as well do the passenger side with motorcraft and set the gaps. Is it important to do them all simultaneously?
3.Good point. I couldn't find the fuel injector connectors when I looked before but I will google where to find them. You think it could be just the connectors and not the injectors themselves? That might explain why I am consistently getting misfires on a particular cylinder. Could a fuel injector problem cause the car to stall at idle? This may be the single problem I have been looking for.
4. Good information, thanks. So I know that replacing the MAF did not solve the Idle problem.
5. Crap crap crap. I will get this fixed asap. If the cats start to fail they will trip an appropriate code right? That would not cause the stalling problem I have experienced would it?

Thank you so much for the quick reply. I will try what you suggest.
The frustrating thing is I don't know if I am dealing with 2 different problems or a single issue causing misfires AND stalling. Does anyone have an idea about where to find a vacuum leak or if I can figure out if the IACV is faulty? Or am I looking in the wrong place for the problem? Any other ideas on what to try to fix the stalling issue?
 
I took the car to Autozone last night and got the codes read again. It had a ton of sensor related codes which I don't know what to make of maybe it is because when I replaced the MAF I forgot to disconnect the battery first? Maybe they are all related to the misfire and/or stalling problem we are experiencing. The guy said two were "confirmed" which he said meant they occurred more than once, I am not really sure what that means. The two "confirmed" were P0306 cylinder 6 misfire again and P1309. His computer called this camshaft position sensor and said that if I replaced that sensor it would fix that problem, but the list on this forum called that code something else. Maybe I will look into replacing that sensor. Here are the other codes: P0717 P1000 P1100 P1112 P1117 P1125.

The guy at autozone said (I know, I know) that some people were able to solve similar problems to mine by replacing their fuel filter. So I replaced the fuel filter and of course it did not help. I also checked the fuel injector connections per the above advice, they were super easy to find. I also put my ohm meter on the injectors and they all read around 12.6, which I gather is what they are supposed to read. The car is still stalling and the CEL is back on so I assume I still have a misfire on cylinder six. While I was checking the connections I noticed that the injector on number six would rotate easily about five degrees back and forth. It wasn't loose in the sense that I could pull it out but it did definitely rotate. Is this a problem? Even though the injectors all read the correct resistance could they still be clogged? I saw above that a bad injector could cause a misfire, but would a clogged one cause a misfire and the engine to stall?

I will order new motorcraft COPs and put them and motorcraft plugs in as soon as they get here. I understand that would probably help my misfire problem, but bad COPs would not cause the car to stall would it? In the mean time I still need to fix the stalling while at a stoplight problem. I will continue to look at the fuel system. I thought I saw a thread about checking for clogged injectors around but I think it required special tools, still I will look it up and give it a shot. I still have a couple questions.

Is there a way to test the IACV valve? or is it unlikely to be causing my stalling problem?
Is there is single component that would cause a cylinder six misfire and the car to stall at idle?
I did a more thorough check for a vacuum leak last night and could not find one, what else would cause the car to stall only while sitting at a stoplight. If it is helpful my lady friend told me today that if she shifts into neutral while at a stoplight it will keep the car from stalling. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
 
I did a more thorough check for a vacuum leak last night and could not find one, what else would cause the car to stall only while sitting at a stoplight. If it is helpful my lady friend told me today that if she shifts into neutral while at a stoplight it will keep the car from stalling. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Low trans fluid. Been there, done that, have the t-shirt...
 
Low trans fluid. Been there, done that, have the t-shirt...

No way! Much appreciated. I was going to check it but with no dipstick its sort of a pain. I will get some transmission fluid tomorrow and give that a try. Thanks.
 
Low trans fluid. Been there, done that, have the t-shirt...

I jacked the car up and leveled it and checked the transmission fluid per the procedure I found posted on this forum. With the car warmed up and running I took out the fluid level plug on the bottom of the trans. Some fluid dripped out so it wasn't super low. I did notice the fluid was mostly black so I think the fluid needs to flushed and replaced completely. I refilled it with this contraption I made. My question for you is if you think old fluid could cause the stalling problem as well as low fluid.
I've included some pictures. The first is the old transmission fluid smeared on a white surface so one can get an idea of the color. To me that fluid looks bad and needs to be replaced, but I would welcome any other opinions or confirmations. The second is the thing I made to pump fluid into the transmission. It is overkill but I wanted to make life as easy as possible for myself while I was under a running vehicle. If you are thinking that this contraption will just end up falling apart and spilling fluid everywhere you would be correct. I did eventually get it to work though. I ended up just sticking the end of the tube into the tranny fill hole instead of using the brass fitting on the end. If anyone is interested in the details of how I made this I would be happy to share. I have searched through a few pages of a search I ran on flushing out the transmission but haven't found a thread with clear instructions on how to do it. Several people said to have the dealer do it but they want $329 and I would prefer not to have to pay that. If someone can help me out with instructions on how to properly flush the transmission and replace the filter I would very much appreciate it. Thanks.

Old Transmission Fluid on white.jpg


Transmission fluid filling machine.jpg
 
Low trans fluid. Been there, done that, have the t-shirt...
This did not solve the stalling problem but since I flushed the fluid the check engine light has not come back on. Not sure how changing the tranny fluid fixed the cylinder six misfire but go figure. It goes to the local dealership tomorrow for diagnosis. Well see what they say. Unless somebody has something to add I'll stop replying to my own thread until I find the solution. Thanks to everyone who helped.
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top