My first ball joint

GoneBoatN

New LVC Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2014
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Location
NorCal Bay Area
I have a 2001 Lincoln LS V8 Sport Package; first and only owner.

I got a quote from my mechanic to fix the bad lower ball joints and the inner tie rod on the right hand side - $1200. Decided to take a crack at it myself for that kind of money. Although I'm not a mechanic I am a bit adept at figuring things out and getting the job done. I've just received my Moog lower ball joints from rockauto and the inner tie rod. So now the planning begins.

From what I read and found on the internet it sounds like this may be quite the experience getting the old one out and the new one in. I seen an youtube video where a couple of shaddy looking characters use a welder or torch or something and then beat it out like a 500 lb gorella - a fightening video to watch. Then I read that there is a kit for pressing them out and in. But I just read where the steering knuckle shaped such that it might make using such a tool difficult. I just got done watching an video from Eric The Car Guy where he used an Air Hammer and the old one came out sooo easy and then he used the same air hammer to insert the new one. I'm thinking I might try that.

My question: anyone have any constructive advice on replacing the lower ball joint?

Worse case is that I screw it up and have to buy new knuckle with ball joint already installed. Still much less than $1200! The car still has less than 100k miles so I'd like to get a couple more years out of it. Just paid to have the AC compressor replace and that cost an arm and a leg but from what I read it is worth it to have that job professionally done.
 
I have a 2001 Lincoln LS V8 Sport Package; first and only owner.

I got a quote from my mechanic to fix the bad lower ball joints and the inner tie rod on the right hand side - $1200. Decided to take a crack at it myself for that kind of money. Although I'm not a mechanic I am a bit adept at figuring things out and getting the job done. I've just received my Moog lower ball joints from rockauto and the inner tie rod. So now the planning begins.

From what I read and found on the internet it sounds like this may be quite the experience getting the old one out and the new one in. I seen an youtube video where a couple of shaddy looking characters use a welder or torch or something and then beat it out like a 500 lb gorella - a fightening video to watch. Then I read that there is a kit for pressing them out and in. But I just read where the steering knuckle shaped such that it might make using such a tool difficult. I just got done watching an video from Eric The Car Guy where he used an Air Hammer and the old one came out sooo easy and then he used the same air hammer to insert the new one. I'm thinking I might try that.

My question: anyone have any constructive advice on replacing the lower ball joint?

Worse case is that I screw it up and have to buy new knuckle with ball joint already installed. Still much less than $1200! The car still has less than 100k miles so I'd like to get a couple more years out of it. Just paid to have the AC compressor replace and that cost an arm and a leg but from what I read it is worth it to have that job professionally done.

You want to be careful to make sure the new ball joint goes in straight so as not to crack the cast aluminum knuckle. I did the A/C compressor in my daughter's 2000 (my old LS, purchased new) and my wife's '06. It wasn't bad at all. Much easier than the alternator! I gladly paid the hour's labor for that job!!
 
Yep, that is the part that concerns me.

Although I haven't done it in my LS it is very similar to Continental. Just rent a ball joint service kit (the large one) from any of the parts store . An air impact helps a lot to push the ball joint in and out. As long as the ball joint is the correct size for the knuckle I wouldn't worry about cracking it.

The welder/torch/hammer method is a red-neck approach and should be avoided. Using the ball joint service kit is the correct way.

here's pic for the tool and setup
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.392361544169978.91554.121024831303652&type=3
 
Thanks for the pics. Just found a deal on ball joints on Rock Auto and will be taking on this job soon. Your pictures are great.
 
Changing the ball joint isn't a hard task at all, I've done it before and it wasn't a big deal. Get a Moog ball joint and get it pressed at a local shop. Please do a favor and inspect the other side and all other suspension components as you're at it. Don't play with luck since I had gotten out lucky due to a feeling that made me switch over to the right lane and luckily landed in a bus stop. My story with pictures is here: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?94310-Lookie-what-I-learned-today!-CHANGE-DEM-BALL-JOINTS!&highlight=fudge12


If you can't do the job, get another mechanic because that is waay too much money; as a side note don't forget to get the right diameter. Gen 1 has 14mm and gen2 has 16mm ball joints. Some 02-03's have a mix up between the two since that was when they varied the generations.
 
Best advice I can give is, hand a machine shop the removed steering knuckle and new ball joint and have them to the job. These things are quite easy to mess up. I had mine going in nearly straight and ended up hoping that it would straighten out as I pressed further. You can guess what happened. The ring in the steering knuckle cracked, junk. Also, stay away from the meveco or whatever brand they sell on rockauto for $75. I had 3 or 4 of them go in 6 months. Very dangerous, as the friction from the dried up ball joint was strong enough to loosen the nut. I ended up with around 3 turns of looseness on a 100 mile trip. The steering error was unbelievable, with the car nearly changing lanes on bridge transitions! I installed a pair of Moog ball joints and all has been quiet ever since. One other note, heating the knuckle seems to be needed to break the bond of the loctite adhesive that the joints are assembled with. However, since the knuckle is aluminum, the entire knuckle absorbs the heat and only after some serious time with a torch, does the area of the ball joint become very warm. I had to modify the pressing cup on my ball joint tool in order to fit the c clamp around the entire mess. I took around 2" of the open end off the cup with a lathe to get the clearance. It's best to have a shop do this. I spent hours on my jobs simply removing and replacing one ball joint at a time. If you plan on using a c clamp style ball joint tool, remember to oil the threads of that tool. The force required to push that ball joint around is tremendous and the oil can help apply the force to the right part of the job, instead of binding the threads.
 
just as fyi, and as a safety measure... i'd get under your car and double
check all of the suspension bits. i just bought a 2000 gen 1 with 97k miles
on it. driven by an elderly lady for the 1st 60k, then an older gentleman
for 37k. you can see from the pics that start on page 2 of my thread that
ALL of the suspension was SEVERELY worn and beat to hell. just be sure
that the rest of any suspension that you have NOT already changed out,
gets some attention. this was a texas car all its life as well.


http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?95732-new-owner-2000-ls
 

Members online

Back
Top