Need help Identifying OBD1 trouble codes.

[warrioralumni08]

Hello everyone, I am glad to be here. I just purchased a Mark VIII yesterday for 800 dollars. Its a 1994 and has 155,000 miles and is black on black, slick looking car I must say. Was cheap due to failed air suspension, but will be converting soon. I know how to read codes on OBD2, but had no idea this is what OBD1 is like. Can anyone help me? I have a video posted on Youtube. This is with the KOEO setup. I feel stupid but I can just understand how to read them, so please someone help me.


YouTube - ‪Video0016.mp4‬‏

 

[87TTOPGT420]

The flash/beep first digit of code the second is second digit think I counted code 33 and code 13

 

[warrioralumni08]

Ok well, it looks like I came up with the same codes as you did then, I just wasnt sure at all. What are the last 3 beeps for then?

 

[chris2523]

nah bro. those are 3 digit codes.
it counts out codes with flashes.
yours did:
flash short pause flash short pause flash. longer pause. repeat.
111. pass.
then it goes for deeper codes. yours again:
(after the long pause and a single separator flash and another long pause.) flash short pause flash short pause flash. repeat.
also 111.
your computer has zero codes.

 

[marco]

And I thought I was the only one who couldn't figure out how to read the obd1 codes! I was going to ask the same thing in a week or so.

 

[Moes8]

buy one of these if you can for future use, i have this one, works nice and has memory.
i can read the codes and then go inside to analyze them later

Amazon.com: Equus 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader: Automotive

 

[warrioralumni08]

Alright everyone, thanks for the help. I have one more for y'all, if y'all don't mind analyzing it for me. This one is with the the engine running, it doesn't run so great anyways, so I am pretty sure it is throwing codes. Any help at all is appreciated! Thank you all very much for your contributions in helping me diagnose the problems.

YouTube - ‪Video0017‬‏

 

[marco]

buy one of these if you can for future use, i have this one, works nice and has memory.
i can read the codes and then go inside to analyze them later

Amazon.com: Equus 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader: Automotive

I have that in my cart on Amazon, just need that money for the oil pan and stuff.

Alright everyone, thanks for the help. I have one more for y'all, if y'all don't mind analyzing it for me. This one is with the the engine running, it doesn't run so great anyways, so I am pretty sure it is throwing codes. Any help at all is appreciated! Thank you all very much for your contributions in helping me diagnose the problems.

YouTube - ‪Video0017‬‏

Does it have a shutter/miss at all rpm's? Kind of sounds like how mine was running until I replaced one coil pack, still need to do a road test to make sure it's fixed.

 

[chris2523]

i believe...
136, 538, 536, 632 and repeat.

136 - Oxygen sensor not switching/system lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control

538 - System did not receive "goose" test - TESTS

536 - Brake On Off open or shorted to ground - BOO

632 - E4OD - Transmission Control Switch (TCS) should be cycled once between engine ID and Goose test

those last 3 codes are for things you should do to get into the cylinder balance test.

 

[warrioralumni08]

Marco -

No telling, I mean the oil life has 18 % life left, the driver side spark plugs were coated with carbon build up, no telling how long it has been since the oil has been changed, the valve cover gasket is no good at all on both sides, the engine is ticking and shakes the inside of the car, I believe it has the wrong firing order but when I correct it, it shakes even worse!!!

 

[warrioralumni08]

i believe...
136, 538, 536, 632 and repeat.

136 - Oxygen sensor not switching/system lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control

538 - System did not receive "goose" test - TESTS

536 - Brake On Off open or shorted to ground - BOO

632 - E4OD - Transmission Control Switch (TCS) should be cycled once between engine ID and Goose test

those last 3 codes are for things you should do to get into the cylinder balance test.

I appreciate it, thank you very much for helping me, looks like I will need a new motor though.

 

[warrioralumni08]

Ok, 1994 Mark VIII LSC firing order is 1234 5678 from front to back correct?

This is what it is currently set on....

Cyl 1-connected to ignition coil 5
Cyl 2-connected to ignition coil 8
Cyl 3-connected to ignition coil 6
Cyl 4-connected to ignition coil 7
Cyl 5-connected to ignition coil 3
Cyl 6-connected to ignition coil 1
Cyl 7-connected to ignition coil 2
Cyl 8-connected to ignition coil 4

 

[chris2523]

looks like I will need a new motor though.

well that sucks.

 

[ratdog442]

I appreciate it, thank you very much for helping me, looks like I will need a new motor though.

Welcome to a great site with many personalities where the people here are knowledgeable.

why do you think you need a new engine?

the first thing after making sure the firing order is correct is to disconnect the map sensor then start the car...my car was running like crap just as you are describing with the sensor connected then ran completley fine with it disco'd...the first time I had a bad sensor which I replaced with a used donor...the second time just needed to be cleaned...chances are the previous owner never maintained this very sensitive sensor. Also make sure the air intake is in proper working condition ie. no leaks, cracks, etc.

Since it sound like the engine has not been properly maintained I would highly recommend going to your local Sears automotive or equivalent shop to have the fuel system cleaned with their 3 step process (this increased my mpg by 1.5 on the highway as well as increased power) also have them do a chemical cleaning flush of the engine...have them change the oil adding a bottle of the lucas oil treatment as the sixth quart...of course first address your leaking valve cover gaskets, change the plugs, fuel filter etc...once you have this cleaning done you can feel confident you are staring somewhat fresh...the lucas treatment in my experience has helped keeping my car from leaking oil...I did have to change the front main seal and the oil sensor unit but no leaks anywhere else... the leaks were all prior to me using the lucas. Stay away from the synthetic oil at this point...I am a do it yourselfer but I am also smart on when it pays to have something done...the $120 at Sears is well worth the money in the short and long run on a car you have no idea on how it has been maintained.

Good luck with your new ride...as far as a performance upgrade the first thing I would do is get your hands on a w3Z2 computer for your car...Nolimit95 swapped to this on his gen 1 and shaved a full second off his 0-60...I just changed mine from a z4ho chipped and picked up a 1/4 second...I picked my ecu up for 65.00 off ebay...the next mod would be the exhaust then a 4.10 gear with a trac lock...that should get you in the low 14's no problem.

 

[McMkVIII94]

buy one of these if you can for future use, i have this one, works nice and has memory.
i can read the codes and then go inside to analyze them later

Amazon.com: Equus 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader: Automotive

I found that and bought it last week... the BEST 25 bucks I've spent on the car so far. The manual alone is worth the 25! It has a well-organized table of all the vehicles it works with, a nice little tutorial on OBD1, a short history of Ford EEC systems, a glossary of acronyms, it does KOEO, KOER, Timing and Advance check (on '92 and older), Cylinder Balance and "Wiggle" tests, erases stored codes from the computer; and has a full list of 2- and 3-digit fault codes. It also does MCU systems (whatever that is ). And, if you don't understand English, it has full French and Spanish sections too!

Best of all, I don't have to count blinks and pauses... short pauses, long pauses, etc. etc.

Now all I need is a troubleshooting flowchart for each of the fault codes.

ETA: Oh, and take the advice about the MAF sensor. Along with the Equus reader, I bought some CRC MAF cleaner from Amazon... made a world of difference, and cleared the 157 code I was getting.

 

[marco]

ETA: Oh, and take the advice about the MAF sensor. Along with the Equus reader, I bought some CRC MAF cleaner from Amazon... made a world of difference, and cleared the 157 code I was getting.

CRC MAF cleaner is good stuff, I just stop at Autozone last weekend and bought some smoothed my car out some.

 

[warrioralumni08]

Welcome to a great site with many personalities where the people here are knowledgeable.

why do you think you need a new engine?

the first thing after making sure the firing order is correct is to disconnect the map sensor then start the car...my car was running like crap just as you are describing with the sensor connected then ran completley fine with it disco'd...the first time I had a bad sensor which I replaced with a used donor...the second time just needed to be cleaned...chances are the previous owner never maintained this very sensitive sensor. Also make sure the air intake is in proper working condition ie. no leaks, cracks, etc.

Since it sound like the engine has not been properly maintained I would highly recommend going to your local Sears automotive or equivalent shop to have the fuel system cleaned with their 3 step process (this increased my mpg by 1.5 on the highway as well as increased power) also have them do a chemical cleaning flush of the engine...have them change the oil adding a bottle of the lucas oil treatment as the sixth quart...of course first address your leaking valve cover gaskets, change the plugs, fuel filter etc...once you have this cleaning done you can feel confident you are staring somewhat fresh...the lucas treatment in my experience has helped keeping my car from leaking oil...I did have to change the front main seal and the oil sensor unit but no leaks anywhere else... the leaks were all prior to me using the lucas. Stay away from the synthetic oil at this point...I am a do it yourselfer but I am also smart on when it pays to have something done...the $120 at Sears is well worth the money in the short and long run on a car you have no idea on how it has been maintained.

Good luck with your new ride...as far as a performance upgrade the first thing I would do is get your hands on a w3Z2 computer for your car...Nolimit95 swapped to this on his gen 1 and shaved a full second off his 0-60...I just changed mine from a z4ho chipped and picked up a 1/4 second...I picked my ecu up for 65.00 off ebay...the next mod would be the exhaust then a 4.10 gear with a trac lock...that should get you in the low 14's no problem.

Well, after warming up for a bit, it will start to black smoke, and leaves it on the ground where ever it sits. Give it some gas and it just pours out the exhaust. So pretty much the motor needs a rebuild. I have come to believe it has bad piston rings and also my brother said when he tried to load it on the trailer, he gave it gas , but is wasn't going anywhere, maybe some clogged fuel injectors? No telling though. I would like to get into the tear down of it this week but am limited on funds. So, I would do the simple things like just get the title in my name and get it insured, then after I will convert the suspension over. Then that's when the fun begins. Car will hopefully be finished in 3 months or less. Just saddens me to watch it sit there everyday, it's so pretty, I have already fell in love with it! =[ No doubt, it will get a major tune up. Oh by the way, what sites does everyone use to get their performance parts?

 

[ratdog442]

Black smoke is usually associated with to much fuel so it may not be as bad as you think...sounds like something a major tuneup may take care off..if not the consensus is to find a donor motor before rebuilding...while the motor is out that would be the time to do headers which can only be purchased from one vendor otherwise you need to do custom....from the sounds of it you probably should look for a trans at the same time...craigslist can be good to find the diamond in the rough...I have used ebay...SCP and LMS as well as bought stuff from guys on this site. Rockauto can be a good source as well but be careful about the suspension parts...how is the rest of car?

 

[chris2523]

black smoke would be way rich. too much fuel.
a blue-ish white is usually burning oil.
and white smoke would be antifreeze.
nothing you have said so far indicates major damage or head gasket problems. just major neglect.

as far as performance parts, shop around. don't be limited to one place.
a lot of people don't like supercoupe performance (scp). the owner seems to be a jerk.
and lincoln motorsports (lms) has good people.

 

[warrioralumni08]

Ahh yes, I have visited both scp and lms so far, it seems though scp has more products, but if the guy is a jerk, then I will rule that place out. I work hard to earn my money, and if I am buying something, I expect you to at least respect me for purchasing your product and answer any questions I have and not rip me off.

The rest of the car, ehh it's decent. Has a couple small dents here and there. I suppose dry ice will do the trick. The weather stripping on the sunroof could be redone as well as the rest around the rear glass. Somebody tried to repaint the trunk lid in one spot, didn't do a good job, just looks like blotches. Believe the sunroof does not work, radio buttons and ac buttons, you cant even read them. Door panels need to be attention. Other then that, car looks good. Like I said it's black with black interior and has black tint. Looks pretty sick. I will have photos of it soon. Also a video to show how it is currently running and just a walk around of it. I cannot wait to get my hands on it though, just wish the motor wasn't so expensive lol.