need help my 2002 lincoln ls wont start

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lil_rick

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okay guys here i go lol i have read alot of these post and everyone seems to be able to help. im a first time poster i guess u would say. i got a 2002 lincoln ls that wont start . it turns over and trys to crank and sometimes runs for a sec then just shuts off . i changed the fuel pump and all fuel filters still nothing . any help will be really apprectated i just cant seem to find the problem. and i called the local lincoln delership and all they said was to bring it in so i can spend more money
 
Have you tried any of the suggestions in the other "won't start" posts? What were the results? What is the PATS light doing? Give us something to work with here.
 
yeah i tried alot of them i search the internet for people with the same problem and still cant find a answer. i have cheacked all the fuses and i can hear my feul pump run for a sec . when i changed the pump and strainers in the tank there was only gas on one side of the tank would that have any thing to do with it its gettin gas to the fuel rail but it not shooting out real hard
 
A little like pulling teeth...

What does the PATS light do while you are cranking the car?
Will it start and run if you hold the gas pedal down about half way, before, during, and after starting the engine?
What is the actual fuel pressure?
Which side of the tank has gas? Is it about empty?
...
 
joegr said:
A little like pulling teeth...

What does the PATS light do while you are cranking the car?
Will it start and run if you hold the gas pedal down about half way, before, during, and after starting the engine?
What is the actual fuel pressure?
Which side of the tank has gas? Is it about empty?
...
Click to expand...

im sorry im new to the lincoln seen and dont know to much about them whats the PATS light ? and no it wont start even if i hold the gas pedal down and idk the actual pressure im going to get a tester tomorrow but it shoots about 5 to six inches and it the passenger side with the pump that has the gas on it and it has about a quarter of a tank the pump is fully submerged in gas . and im sorry about being difficult
 
For the gas pedal test, make sure that you hold the pedal only half way down. All the way down puts the PCM into clear flood mode.

The PATS light is the red light in the little gray dome near the base of the windshield at the center of the dash. It could be on steady while cranking the car. If it flashes rapidly, then wait for it to flash out a two digit repeating code. Tell us that code if it does.

If the dash gauges cycle while you are cranking, then you have a low or bad battery.
 
joegr said:
For the gas pedal test, make sure that you hold the pedal only half way down. All the way down puts the PCM into clear flood mode.

The PATS light is the red light in the little gray dome near the base of the windshield at the center of the dash. It could be on steady while cranking the car. If it flashes rapidly, then wait for it to flash out a two digit repeating code. Tell us that code if it does.

If the dash gauges cycle while you are cranking, then you have a low or bad battery.
Click to expand...

okay it looks like the PATS light isnt putting any codes out and my gauges was cycling so i put the charger on it and did a quick engin start and it started but then die within 2-3 sec . i left the charger on it to get a full charge . this is really confusing me its gettin gas and fire but just wont run . if i push the gas when i try to crank it it just sputters and wont run for that 2-3 sec as if i just crack it without pushing the gas . could i got a bad or weak pump from Oreilys or somthin?:confused:
 
and when it stoped running on me it just started sputting like i was out of gas then shut off thats what made me thing it was the fuel pump or filter
 
how long should the pump stay on when the key is turned on? mine only run for a half sec and its brand new
 
Could be a bad alt if it runs for a bit and then quits.. This car needs the constant voltage or the computers won't operate correctly.. If you have proper pressure at the rail, it shouldn't make a difference in the prime time..
 
that's all you get

you will hear a quick prime noise, then nothing. Just replaced my pump, turn the key and you hear a quick prime noise then stop.
 
lil_rick said:
how long should the pump stay on when the key is turned on? mine only run for a half sec and its brand new
Click to expand...

That's okay. I think it stops when it reaches pressure.

Anyway, it kind of sounds like a MAF problem or an air leak after the MAF.

Unplug the MAF sensor, and see if the engine will start and run then.
 
joegr said:
That's okay. I think it stops when it reaches pressure.

Anyway, it kind of sounds like a MAF problem or an air leak after the MAF.

Unplug the MAF sensor, and see if the engine will start and run then.
Click to expand...

i have unplugged MAF and still nothin
 
Well, that's it for my quick suggestions from a distance. Time for a OBDII scan and close inspection...
 
Any symptoms leading up to this?

Verify spark. Choose your favorite non-life-threatening method.
Verify fuel. Check rail pressure. Maybe even pull the rail and make sure the injectors are firing. That can be done pretty quickly.

I wonder if crap got past the filter and is clogging the rails or injectors.
 
There's a simple tool (just a 2 prong, wire, and light) to insert into the fuel injector plug. When you try to start the car, it will light up every time it gives power to the injector. Of course, that wouldn't tell you if there is a problem with the injector itself, just verifying it's getting power.
 
Probably could also check the resistance of the crank sensor with a multimeter.
 
okay well i dont have pressure tester but ill turn the key to on a few times to prime the pump and it has pressure at the rail and it will start for a sec and stop then i push the tester valve and no pressure??
 
You may need a full diagnostics scan instead of a tool that only reads DTC's.
 
pektel said:
You may need a full diagnostics scan instead of a tool that only reads DTC's.
Click to expand...

Yes, I was thinking of a scan with a Ford specific scanner. The generic scanners can't do much.
 
oddball said:
Any symptoms leading up to this?

Verify spark. Choose your favorite non-life-threatening method.
Verify fuel. Check rail pressure. Maybe even pull the rail and make sure the injectors are firing. That can be done pretty quickly.

I wonder if crap got past the filter and is clogging the rails or injectors.
Click to expand...

its getting spark and some fuel ill let the pump prime a few times and check the pressure and it spits out pretty good and then it will start for a few secs then shut off and then ill test it again and there is no pressure what would cause it not to keep pressure? i took my pump back out and had it checked and they said it was workin and i hooked it up outside of the tank and it turns on for sec then stops and when i turn the car over it seems to be workin when it was outside the tank
 
pektel said:
You may need a full diagnostics scan instead of a tool that only reads DTC's.
Click to expand...

ive got a appointment in two weeks thats the fastest they could get me in im gonna check it again with the obo scanner when my uncle gets off i think engin light is on now
 
lil_rick said:
its getting spark and some fuel ill let the pump prime a few times and check the pressure and it spits out pretty good and then it will start for a few secs then shut off and then ill test it again and there is no pressure what would cause it not to keep pressure? i took my pump back out and had it checked and they said it was workin and i hooked it up outside of the tank and it turns on for sec then stops and when i turn the car over it seems to be workin when it was outside the tank
Click to expand...

Communications failure between the PCM and the REM comes to mind as one possible cause.
 
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