Need help quick!

Schaefft

Schaefft

Active LVC Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
149
Reaction score
4
Location
Germany/UK
Alright, so I drove home from Amsterdam today (about 450 miles) which was the first time I could actually drive the car (the '95 LSC) for a while.

I noticed a couple of things that are pretty annoying (seems like the air compressor is about to go out, pretty loud and coming on randomly) but one thing thats concerning me is my horn is not working. I searched for a couple of reasons and the clock spring seems to be a common problem. My cruise control buttons are still working though and I do not get any airbag warning light. For some reason my traction control button says its off all the time and I cannot switch it back on. Also my ABS light came on. Everything else is working though. The fuse (#1) under the bonnet is good, too!

Could it be the clock spring or can I rule it out because the rest of the steering wheels buttons work perfectly fine? I didnt try the alarm yet because I didnt have a remote, will have to reprogram my old one tomorrow to see if its working. But since a horn thats not working is a guaranteed fails in the inspection Id like to fix it asap.
 
Also, in case its just the horn, where can I find it and whats the easiest way to replace it?
 
1 air compressor is probably loud cause the rubber mounts are gone
2 its probably the mfs you can take it apart and do a continuity test to make sure
3 a abs sensor has probably gone bad
 
I reprogrammed my key fob, its working with the LSC now. I cannot hear the horn when in panic mode so its probably not the clock spring? I guess there isnt much that could go bust apart the horn itself I guess?

Also, are you sure its the multi function switch? Everything on there is working, its just the horn thats not.
 
I'm not sure its the mfs its just common
Start by seeing if thers power at the horn when activated.
That's also why I said do a continuity test on the mfs.
 
GMAN said:
The horn is inside the crash bumper. You have to take off the bumper cover.
Click to expand...

Where do you come up with some of your suggestions..

Horns are behind crash bumper... remove hood latch release bar (the part with the yellow piece of plastic on it) remove headlight cover... look down
 
Okay, the horn fixed itself it seems, its working now after a couple of tries.

But when theres a problem fixed another one appears. The car overheated yesterday out of nowhere when I entered a parking garage and a cheaply bodged hose blew which emptied half of the coolant on the floor (it was there to bypass the heater matrix inside the car which is leaking). We replaced the hose and refilled the system (pressure cap was off to get the air out until only water was pressed out). Now the problem is, after filling the system and reservior up the max it sucked the whole tank empty, so we filled it up again. It sucked out a bit more but quickly started to rise again (probably overcooking). Could it be the thermostat thats causing this because its blocked or something or could it be the head gasket that is starting to cause problems (and messing around with the coolant system pressure)? We tried to fill it a couple of times but got the same problem after just a couple of minutes.

EDIT: Never mind, we were stupid and didnt know the reservoir cap was a pressure cap...
 
Well I hope she's running good now
You can bypass the heater core at the fire wall
Just connect the 2 hoses together so they don't go through the core
 
Yeah, thats like it was before, just incredibly stupidly made (probably before 2007 when the Mark was imported from Florida to the UK) which is why the hose cracked yesterday. The heater core is still bypassed now but the new hose should hold a bit longer. I really hope all that crap yesterday didnt damage anything in the engine when it pissed all its coolant on the floor.

At least it didn't overheat on my drive back home on the autobahn and the city today so it should be fixed now.

ABS and traction control off light (on the switch) is still on though, have to check that tomorrow.
 
Well, I couldn't really enjoy it yet with a spare wheel on or after getting new tires while concentrating on the engine temp gauge and driving without traction control in the rain. :D

Is there a way to delete the engine fault codes after writing them down without having an obd1 reader (only got one for obd2)?

And is this one the right list for my car:

http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/eec-iv.shtml

or this one at the bottom of this page:

http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

I have an early '95 LSC so its still OBD I/EEC-IV right?
 
Clearing Codes

1. Perform KOEO self test.
2. When DTCs begin to display, deactivate self test as follows: Analog Volt/Ohmmeter, remove jumper wire from self test input connector and signal return pin of self test connector.
Click to expand...

so after you put the paper clip or jumper wire in to read the codes, just pull the wire out while it is blinking out the codes, that will clear the codes.
or just unhook the battery for a while, but pulling the jumper is easier.
 
Sapperfire said:
Where do you come up with some of your suggestions..

Horns are behind crash bumper... remove hood latch release bar (the part with the yellow piece of plastic on it) remove headlight cover... look down
Click to expand...

Sapp is absolutely correct. Don't go condemning any other parts until you check for power at the horn while you have someone hit the horn button. I replaced my horn recently, took like 2 minutes. All you have to remove is that black shroud that is over the headlights.

As for the ABS light and Traction control staying off... it is because there is a fault in the ABS system, the TC system will not work as long as you have an ABS code.

Also, there is a bleed procedure for refilling the cooling system, involving removing the cap on the coolant cross-over tube.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 100 (members: 1, guests: 99)
Back
Top