new, car guy, pls help

LINKAGE03LS

LINKAGE03LS

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hey guys,
so i did introduce myself. 03 p sport lsv8.
just got car. 0223 n 2106 hi tps volts eng.code
new gaskets plugs coils. pass side was full of oil.. claimed and tested ebay stuff..
runs better.. idles as it should.. breaks up after 3k and stumbles and shakes a lil coming back to idle.. in falsafe mode.. reset codes come back.. also pulled batt and did the compasitor drain pos to neg.. not sure how to check 4 wire tps yet..great info on here.. maybe some imput from u vet.ls owners can save me some time...
 
Not to be an ass but you need to write this more clearly... Im having a hard time understanding what you're asking.
 
SeaPro said:
Not to be an ass but you need to write this more clearly... Im having a hard time understanding what you're asking.
Click to expand...
ok guys. got it.. I was a little rushed on writing this post.
Just bought 03 ls8 running bad with p0223 and 2106. etc failsafe mode on...
changed valve cover gaskets, plugs and coils, (plugs filled with oil..) reset computer and did the battery drain positive to neg.
NOW..
codes still on..
engine idles as it should but will stumble and shake coming back to idle.. bogs when going up in RPM, starts up fine..
so im curious if anyone on here can give me some input on how to check 4 wire tps before i put one on. or what else i need to check
 
LINKAGE03LS said:
... breaks up after 3k and stumbles and shakes ...
Click to expand...

This is normal behavior in Park or Neutral. It's the 3K rev limiter.

All coils should have been OEM, plenty of di-electric grease up the boots, all coils should have been firmly seated. all coil connectors should have fully clicked in, all Plugs should have been NGK and correctly gapped.


.
 
ngk plugs set to 39
pre greased boots but added some white grease in boot.
not sure of clicked in but i made sure they were in correctly an tight.. with all wire connections to coil clicked in.. they are ebay coils ..add said tested, quality, etc.. thanks in advance, Mike
 
ok, your saying ebay coils?.. i did read some saying they had good luck with them.. i ordered before i started reading on here.. should i do a check.. i do see your well experenced so im all ears here...thank in advance..
 
If it is in fact the coils, RockAuto.com is probably your best bet for OEM coils. They're the cheapest I've found, and they're probably the best parts website I've ever used. Very highly recommended. I also made the mistake of non-oem coils.

This thread may help you:
coil #4 causing TB codes?

As hard as it is to believe, bad coils can apparently cripple this car. I fought this idea for a long time, given how expensive they are. Long story short, there is basically no aftermarket for our cars, and almost all non-OEM parts are complete sh!t. I've spent so much money buying things twice, trying to save when I should have bit the bullet and gone ford.
 
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thanks for info seapro and all, just out there idling and slow reving car in park it finally threw p2321 p0202 and 2106 could this mean i could have a bad new coil on #2 cyl..or injector issue..remember i just picked up car, did the plugs gaskets and coils...BTW my coils are ECCPP brand out of CA. if anyone heard of these.. they seem to have a good rep. from what ive read so far, thanks in advance to all
 
LINKAGE03LS said:
coils are ECCPP brand
Click to expand...

^ This, them ECCPP brand coils out of China are the issue, they've been reported as total crap and several instances of several members reporting defective units straight out of the box. Those coils are not held to OEM Ford standards, I wouldn't put them in anything I own even if you paid me. Total crap, You bought them because they were 8 for 80$ ... They are misfiring right out of the box.

ECCPP coils are as junk as "Deutsche Parts" is for suspension components for this car.
Avoid both and don't even think about using "Dorman" for a degas bottle.


Member GrizzlyLS will be along shortly advocating his preferred brand over OEM. Which to date seem legit based on his experience. OEM is indeed a bit pricey but best bang for buck.

Good luck.
 
RigsLS said:
Avoid both and don't even think about using "Dorman" for a degas bottle.
Good luck.
Click to expand...

Lol I guess I'm going to regret this decision in a few months ehh? hahaha No way in hell I was giving ford $400 CAD for an OEM one.
 
are you using there coils now seapro...i also noticed in park held at about 2k it picks up and drops a cylinder, im a lil confused since its trowing injector open circut code..im brand new to this car got it cheap with these issues...........HELP..someone
 
RigsLS said:
This is normal behavior in Park or Neutral. It's the 3K rev limiter....
Click to expand...

Actually, no. Stumbling/missing due to the neutral limiter is not normal for his gen II LS. The gen I had to cut fuel to limit the max RPM in park, so the engine did get very rough when this happened. However, the gen II simply keeps from opening the throttle any further to limit RPM. Both my 04 and my 06 run very smooth when they hit the neutral limiter.

LINKAGE03LS, the codes you have for gas pedal position and throttle Forced Limited Power are pretty commonly known to almost always be due to RFI from bad coils, rather then actual problems with the pedal or throttle assemblies. You really do need to get the Motorcraft (or at least the Delphi) coils. When you do, you need to change the spark plugs at the same time. (Yes, I know you just did that but your bad coils may have damaged the new plugs. The damaged plugs will damage your new coils, and the cycle will keep repeating.)

For the fuel injector code, I would look closely at the connector for that injector. The latches on those connectors break if you look at them wrong. (It's also possible that this is a false code due to the RFI from those ebay coils, but it would be the first time I have heard of this one.)

Also, be aware that the PCM is not very robust. It is possible that it has already been damaged by the bad coils (either the ones you put in, or the ones that were in there before). It is also possible to damage the catalytic converters (raw gasoline from misfires can melt the internals together) and even the cylinder walls and rings can be damaged (raw gasoline washes the oil off and then it's metal on metal). For these reasons, I prefer to play it safe with the coils.
 
Thanks so much Joegr,
the coils are almost 30dls delphi at rock auto.. is there any better price that you know of?.. also my idle is smooth no indications of smoke or anything.. injector is plugged in.. how will i know if i have computer issue..and also wasnt getting the injector code till i changed coils..ive owned car for two weeks now and fuss with it when i can! thanks in advance once again
 
I'd get good coils in there before worrying about the rest. Motorcraft are just over $50. Personally, I'd (and I have) pay the extra $160 to be sure about it. I do believe that Delphi is a good brand, but I haven't tried their coils.
 
Rofl was not going to since i just posted last week, but since Rigs 'requested' it....

Delphi still going strong!

The reason I decided going Delphi is They are GM's version of what Visteon used to be for Ford. The faith in Motorcraft comes from the Visteon years, and now that Motorcraft is sourced Chinese (Standard Motor Products company) I just didnt have the faith in them I wanted. Especially when price comparing. Lot of physical hands on testing and comparing with actual units made me decide to use Delphi. Glad I did so far.

As a side note the OEM one I purchased to compare the spring was slightly LARGER than the plug tip end. That means it would have easily went over the plug tip, but not really made complete contact. Delphi was a far more 'supple' spring and always 'popped' in place.
 
just kills me that they can sell crap and get away with it.. i will wind up paying as much for the coils as i payed for the car, but everything else seem the work as it should and the car was garaged and driven 180k must mean its not a lemon or P.O.s had deep pockets and loved there lemonade!
 
joegr said:
... the gen II simply keeps from opening the throttle any further to limit RPM. Both my 04 and my 06 run very smooth when they hit the neutral limiter.
Click to expand...

Correct you are! ... happens when you own both GENs at the same time.

1st GEN rough at limited 3K
2nd GEN smooth at limited 3K

10-4

.
 
grizzlyls said:
... and now that Motorcraft is sourced Chinese (Standard Motor Products company) I just didnt have the faith in them ...
Click to expand...

Keeping in mind they are held to Ford's standards and specs, not just any sweat shop pumping out crap and getting away with it. Safe to speculate they sourced a reputable company which is held to batch testing and would be held liable.
 
I haven't found any place cheaper than rockauto, I'd be curious if anyone has any better suggestions. Don't worry, you'll get very used to ordering parts for this car lol. Your cooling system should be on its way out very shortly if it hasn't already been completely replaced. This car is amazing, but requires a few dollars here and there. Like I said, I fought the idea of buying OEM parts because like you I trusted that off brand manufactures had some level of decency. Turns out they don't, and that if you want to play you've gotta pay.

Buy new plugs and return the ones you just bought if you decide to purchase new coils. Maybe you can claim they were defective upon purchase if you bought them at a large retailer? hahaha
 
getting ready to buy new coils but still a little puzzled here..
having codes pointing to # 2 injector and coil code..#s p2321,0202,2106...
what i did ,
changed #2 coil twice so far with 2 other coils from old batch that had no contamination .
no difference in running..
listened for injector fire (clicking) and it dose.
car starts rite up all the time..
idles smooth..
hold throttle steady in between 1500 and 2800 in park and u can hear it picking up and dropping a cylinder , could it a different coil not trowing code also?..
also the P.O. i just got it from just changed thermostat,I heared something about how pcm can go into pump mode if it got hot?.. also i do have the elms 327 and android free app to read and reset codes.. i also pull neg. of battery sometimes for a while..

Thanks in advance for all input..
 
I really think that your life will be easier if you replace all plugs and coils with known good ones before you go chasing after other issues. Yes, you probably do have other problems too, but they should be easier to diagnose after you get rid of the electrical noise from the coils.

For the injector, you could have a bad injector, bad wiring to the injector, bad FET in the PCM, or it could be that the PCM is being fooled by noise from the coils.

I think that you are talking about failsafe cooling. You will know if you are in failsafe cooling. The temperature gauge will go all the way to "H", a red high temperature light will come on, a warning chime will sound, and the message center will display a failsafe cooling message. (Do not confuse this with ETC failsafe, which is a very different thing.) Once in cooling failsafe, it won't just be one cylinder dropped, it will effectively be four, but these will rotate. (Each cylinder will not fire every other time that it would normally have.)

It is almost certain that once you get past the misfire issues, you will have cooling system issues. All the parts not recently replaced will need to be replaced, but for now, one thing at a time.
GenII LS8 Cooling System Overhaul
 
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