New rear rotor and pad problems

Ken

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I just replace my rear rotors and pads with Bendix. I went for a 5 minute test drive in the neighborhood. Towards the end of the test I notice a little drag and smell. I had the care in drive with no acceleration and the car moves .001 miles per hour. I accelerated up to 5 miles per hour and put it in neutral. The car completed stopped within 2 seconds. I made it back home and took a visual check, both rotors were extremely hot with a faint burning smoke emitting from the rotors.

Question: Is there a burn in procedure for new rotors and pads?
Are both rear calipers malfunctioning?
 
i didnt read lous post, but when i got new pads and rotors, i noticed immeditally (cause a passing driver told me) that there was an abundant amount of smoke coming from the wheels. i took it back to midas and they said its normal, its just removing the factory film, and glue that comes on the rotors.
Never go to midas for brake work, they suck. long story.
 
I usually clean the rotors off with brake cleaner before installing and never had a problem. When I installed Satisfied ceramics on my F150 I did follow their break in procedure anyway.
 
Thanks for the replys. I was scared that I will mess up a brand new pair of rotors and pads. I guess I will use the burn in procedures to season the rotors.
 
Rear Breaks Known Problems on 2000 and 2001 LS

I wore out approximately 1/10 inch on a pair of new Bendix brake pads unevenly after driving 20 miles. I rechecked alignment on my rotors and wheels. Everything looks OK, but didn't realize that one of my retractable pistons inside my brake caliper bracket was welded with rust, which cause the outer pads to wear uneven and the inner pads to wear quickly. That's right, THE CALPER BRACKET. This was on both wheels. I had to verify with my friends LS to see if it's an isolated problem with just my car. He had 1 bad on his car and didn't know it. He had NO inner pad left and was breaking with just medal on medal. To see if you rear caliper bracket is bad, just look at your inner brake pads.

I change mines out and it rides and brakes like a new car again. And thanks to Advance Auto Part in exchanging my brake pads, although it was my fault.
 
Just remember when you install pads on the rear calipers that there are notches on the piston that corresponds to a peg on the back of the pads. When you press/turn the piston into the caliper, the notches have to be at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock to mate up with the pad correctly... if not, you could have problems. Not sure if it would cause heated smoking brakes, but something to check.
 
Well... I was going to mention my particular trials and tribulations with countless brake jobs I did at the ECG sessions... but I didn't want to show off ;)

Good to see you here Bill.
 
Ken said:
I just replace my rear rotors and pads with Bendix. I went for a 5 minute test drive in the neighborhood. Towards the end of the test I notice a little drag and smell. I had the care in drive with no acceleration and the car moves .001 miles per hour. I accelerated up to 5 miles per hour and put it in neutral. The car completed stopped within 2 seconds. I made it back home and took a visual check, both rotors were extremely hot with a faint burning smoke emitting from the rotors.

Question: Is there a burn in procedure for new rotors and pads?
Are both rear calipers malfunctioning?

There are break in procedures, but what you're describing definitely doesn't sound right. It sounds like the brakes are hanging up. Did you get the calipers screwed back in the way you're supposed to? Is the parking brake working and adjusted correctly? I don't care what the break in procedures are, you shouldn't have the car just stop like that when you kick it into neutral.
 
I was talking about the slide pins on the brake caliper bracket. They somehow get moisture inside the rubber sleeve and causes the pins to rust. This must be check before replacing your rear pads or replacing/resurfacing your rear rotors.
 

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