New to me 98 Continental in MA with a few questions/mechanic recommendation

Terrapin88

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Hey guys. Great site. I've been on here for days sponging up as much info as I can specific to these cars. Glad I found this site. I wanted to say hello and thanks for the wealth of info I've picked up so far.

I bought a 98 Continental a few days ago for short money. 155K, runs and drives very well for the most part, seems to shift well, all the gadgets work, Ice cold AC, JBL w/6 disc changer, good tires all around, body is very clean except for a couple of small less than perfect rust repairs w/touch up paint near both rear fenders. Even still the car is very presentable, and coming from a well used and tired 2000 Buick Regal with 200K on it, this Conti is like floating around on a fast, plush leather couch with lumbar support. So far I am loving it. Haven't had a V8 in many years so the power is a nice change of pace. Even the audio system is reasonably good considering its age and technology.

I may find more issues as I learn this car, but so far it only has a few things that I need to deal with like a noisy pulley (praying for idler), an occasional sputtering or maybe light bucking...not sure exactly what word to use to describe it properly but it immediately makes me think coils and plugs, a slight pull to the left for a quick second when braking, and for the first few minutes after starting and driving I can smell light exhaust fumes in the cabin. After a few minutes the smell is gone. It's not overwhelming but I can smell it so diagnosing the cause is on my to do list. The exhaust seems too quiet for a leak, but I haven't had time to really dig into it and look it over good yet. Any thoughts on the exhaust smell? Also the console shifter is stiff and does not slide as easily as I believe it should. Is there some common issue with those? Maybe a cable to lubricate?

I've replaced the pcv valve and hose as well as the breather hose. This weekend I'll pop in the new pcv and breather gaskets that I forgot to get when I did the pcv. I've replaced the air filter, cabin filter (I've never seen one that nasty before). I've got new plugs, coils and a fuel filter, oil filter to install this weekend so far. I also picked up a 3 book factory service manual from Ebay that is taking it's sweet time to arrive. I have no maintenance records or any idea what has or hasn't been done to the car by the PO. I'm replacing the normal "tune up" parts that I do whenever I buy a used car. I am hoping that will cure the sputtering I feel occasionally. Cleaning the MAF is on my list too. Am I missing anything that I should arbitrarily replace or inspect when I do the coils, plugs and fuel filter this weekend?

Ideally I would like to have the car looked over by a shop that actually knows these cars so they can give me a list of any issues they can find that might need attention. Is there anyone near Plymouth, MA that could recommend an honest shop? I'd drive 45 minutes or so if the mechanic was worth it.

Thanks for looking.
C-
 
it most probably is the idler pulley and the surging is the coils....get yourself a new set of motorcraft coils and you'll be good to go.
 
Thanks for the reply Modular. I'm going to yank the belt today or tomorrow and see what I see. I'm looking forward to replacing the plugs and coils to see if that solves the surging problem.
 
You can bet the farm it won't be the easy to reach, $17 idler pulley on the top. Ohhh, no, it will be the one built into the tensioner for sure. Those pullies are identical btw, but if you're going through all the trouble of removing a very old tensioner you might as well replace the whole item instead of just the pulley on it. Read my how-to post on what it takes -- you might as well replace everything while you're in there but it ranks pretty high on the PITA meter!

Go with a Goodyear Gatorback belt too. I had to order mine from Summit Racing since it isn't stocked by AutoZone, Advance, O'Reilly's, or NAPA.
 
MooJohn, why you wanna stomp all over my positive mojo, man? If it's not the idler I am going to hold you personally responsible now. ;) I had read your how-to post already. Very informative, thanks.

Even though I just KNOW it's going to be the idler, I've been reading up on how to replace the tensioner, AC Comp, and water pump on this car just in case. Hope for the best, plan for the worst.
 
You jinxed me MooJohn! I think it is the tensioner pulley. The tensioner assembly is pulsing back and forth while the motor is idling. According to the factory service manual, the tensioner assy is allowed to move under hard acceleration or when the AC kicks on, but otherwise "excessive" movement indicates bad pulley. I also put my stethoscope on it and it sounded terrible. The idler pulley didn't sound so hot either, and I can wiggle it a little so looks like I'm doing both of them. The alternator sounded nasty through the stethoscope too. Kind of screechy. I've never really listen to one before so I'm not sure what it should sound like.

On a related note, I woke up stupid the day I ordered my coils because I ordered the ones that do not fit my car. I'm sending them back for the right ones. I still replaced all the plugs. The plugs I pulled out were autolite ap104's that looked good but were gapped out of spec somewhere below .050. I had some oil on the coil and plug from cylinder #1. From what I've read that indicates valve cover gasket leak, correct?
 
Have you seen my coil-changing thread?

I've had one of the coils go bad in the ~ 1.5 years since the swap. You can get an 8-pack of coils, then maybe 1 or 2 singles to keep as spares. Even if you had to buy two whole sets of their brand it's cheaper than one set of OEM, and they're not bad coils.

Nothing beats an NGK plug either. That post includes the NGK part info if you want to go that route.
 
Yup, I saw that post on the summit coils. Good price. Do you know who makes them?

I pulled all my coils out to eyeball them looking for cracks or anything obvious. I put motorcraft plugs in. Replacing Plugs and coils is no biggie on that motor. I was expecting more drama. The worst part of the job was getting something sharp jabbed up under my thumbnail. Still smarts too.
 
Coils & plugs is the only time when we FWD guys actually have an easier time over the RWD cars! It's a main reason I wasn't worried about using "unproven" coils. I'm not down 20 minutes if one does go bad.

Plugs on my former Dodge Stealth were much harder because you have to remove the intake manifold to access the rear bank. I miss boost - one day I hope to again have something with a hair dryer or two under the hood.
 
I'm not worried about unproven coils either, especially when I can get 8 copper coils on ebay or Amazon for the price of one Motorcraft or some no name parts store coil. I'm pretty sure a lot of the coils are being made in China regardless of the brand name on them anyway. I'll hang on to the 8 I'm removing as emergency spares.

Last boost I had was in my F350 and F250, but I'm guessing that's not the kind of boost your missing.
 

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