No heat!! I know another one, but i've tried everything! Help needed please

Adam_Dawg78

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I am in disparate need of help on my no heat issue!

I have tried and tried to fix this no heat issue, but cannot get it fixed. Below is a brief history of repairs. I apologize for the long message, but besides the pressure test I'm about to do, I don't have any idea what else I can do, so I just want to make sure I don't leave something out that could help lead to a fix.

02 LS V6 about 150,000 miles

Each repair included a cooling system drain and fill

1st repair January 2013
spark plugs had gone bad, changed all six

February
Misfire code, ended up changing the right side (driver side) coils

couple weeks later
changed the left 3 coils and electrical connectors for all six, pcv valve and elbow (big mistake)

ever since then engine light has remained on and code was for an air leak. Since the pcv elbow is no longer available, I tried to find the closest match. it didn't work and was leaking a small amount of air. Since it wasn't that bad I just left it.

Mid summer, bad hesitation, shaking at stop and around 60. Replaced the passenger side head gaskets. Broke a bolt, bitch to get out, put new bolts in, last one broke, but it broke in a way that it could still be tightened. I was so pissed by then, I just tightened it and left it. Hesitation/shaking gone

I asked my wife late summer if it was me or if the air wasn't as cold as usual, she said it felt a little warm too. didn't think much of it until Late October when my wife said the heat wasn't working

After a ton of research, I thought there was probably air in the system, because each time I refilled the system, I couldn't open the engine air bleed because it was stripped, so I took off the upper intake hose and used that as a guide.

I ordered a new radiator hose, also put in a new thermostat while I was in there.

still no heat.

drained cooling system again,

Used a flush kit. drove it a couple days, then flushed it out.
Back-flushed the heater core, by removing quick connect hoses from metal lines, all lines sent water in and back out.

put it all back together, no heat

This week, the small air leak became an annoying loud whistling sound. Fed up with the whole pcv elbow thing, I just ran a hose from the pcv valve directly to the manifold. no more whistle, no more leak, no more engine light. but still no heat.

Here is everything I have tried:
Drained and filled system approximately 6 times
Flush and fill, back flushed heater core
checked fuses under hood and in cabin
DATC Test, Floor and off then auto, one side counts to 25 the other down from 25, then all the lights illuminate. No codes displayed. Also during the test you can hear the doors in dash opening and closing or whatever they do, sound like an house door opening, so I figured this ruled out the Bypass door being stuck. Also no code figured it wasn't a bad evaporator discharge air temp sensor
new upper radiator hose (Upper radiator hose screen not clogged)
unplugged DCCV
cleaned DCCV
broke DCCV while doing the flush and fill, I ended up putting it back with some of the rubber plumbing still in tack. Flushed the cleaner, filled system, NO heat. Took DCCV back off, took the rubber parts off, the little rod inside that part was covered in sandy gunk, after gutting it as much as I could, I cleaned the gunk off and reinstalled.

I filled the system, following instructions to a T, replaced engine air bleed when coolant escaped, closed bleeder valve when stream of coolant came out, ran it at 1500 rpms, released air, drove it couple days, opened heater air bleed...... BUT
NO HEAT

I feel I have tried everything and with DCCV gutted, I can't think of any reason why there is still no heat, unless its an air leak. So last night I spent 3 hours trying to get air out. When I idle at 1500 for 3 mins and open heater air bleed, it seems to release air, coolant sprays out, has some bubbles, then stops and nothing comes out. Opened it up and let it idle for a while and nothing would come out. When engine is revved and returns to idle a small burst of coolant comes out and usually the first part of the burst has bubbles (its not just solid fluid, seems to have air in it) but then nothing after that. If I squeeze the upper or lower radiator hose, coolant spits out heater air bleed hose, but then nothing.

I touched the metal lines on passenger side, the top 2 where a little warm, the bottom one, which I believe is the return is too hot to touch.

I just rented a pressure tester and am about to go try that. I will post the results of the pressure test.

Could it be because a lot of air got into the system and it all isn't out yet? If this could be the reason is there a way to get the air out, maybe using a vacuum pump to pull the air out the heater air bleed?

If any one has any other ideas, please send them my way.
 
Hairline cracks in your DEGAS bottle causing not enough pressure to built up, system not functioning as intended thus allowing air into the system.
you can bleed that until the cows come home, still no heat. inspect degas bottle, get it out, clean it off and hold up against a light to see cracks.
 
If I read that correctly you need a new DCCV. Gutting the DCCV makes it non-functional and probably the source of no heat.

YMMV
 
Last I posted I was about to check the pressure on the cooling system. BigRig you were correct, there was a leak somewhere in the threads of the degas bottle neck. Couldn't build any pressure with any of the pressure kit's caps, but I did get to test the system by using one of the kit's plugs and it held just fine.

Bought a new degas bottle, had limited time to install and bleed bc wife was leaving for out of town. Got it all hooked up, bleed some and off she went. no heat. figured system had air.

Day before Christmas I bleed it forever, couldn't get any heat, then found out the new degas bottle wouldn't hold pressure, ended up getting new bottle yesterday, while I was there I figured it would suck worse to put this on and then for the 100th time have to drain everything again to install a DCCV, so I spent the 188 bones and got it.

While I had everything off, I ended up plugging water hose up to hot water tank and flushed the remaining parts, back flushed the heater core. Just to make sure any remaining crud left over from the cleaning wouldn't gum up my new dccv.

Finally after installing a new upper radiator hose, thermostat & o ring, degas bottle (twice damn it) and dccv I finally have......HEAT!!!!!!

I do still wonder if the gutted DCCV would have worked. In theory I figured it would, but then I thought it may just send coolant the easiest route and that would be towards the water pump, plus figured the little rod inside might just sit down and not open up to let coolant to the core.

Thank you BigRigLS and LS4me for the help!
 
Are you getting the Dorman degas bottle? If so, you'll be replacing this one very soon too. Get the Motorcraft one and you'll be good for several years.
 
... leak somewhere in the threads of the degas bottle neck. Couldn't build any pressure with ...


That's enough of a statement to realize it was the Dorman brand product, (has to be) which we all know,
is cheap imitated crap with a thread to pressure cap problem. Always purchase the OEM Motorcraft Degas bottle.

Replace Degas Bottle with OEM part only. (p/n 5W4Z-8A080-AA).

Re&Re - OEM Degas Bottle - GEN 1 V8


There is a reason why this is brought up on this site a least once per week.
 

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