oil light comes on when braking or idling

[mmm]

I browsed through most of the "common" issues members have with their lincoln LS' and did not seem to find anything associated with oil light. Has anyone ever had this issue with their LS?

Issue: The red oil light comes on when I slow down or idle at a stop light.

I checked the oil and it's fine both engine cold and engine hot. I'm guessing that the most obvious problems would be either Oil Pressure Switch or Oil Pump. Is there an easy way to determine which is most likely the culprit?

How hard is it to change Oil Pressure Switch?...Is it located near oil filter?...

make/model: 2003 Lincoln Ls V6

thanks.

 

[joegr]

... I'm guessing that the most obvious problems would be either Oil Pressure Switch or Oil Pump. Is there an easy way to determine which is most likely the culprit?...
thanks.

Temporarily install a mechanical oil pressure test gauge instead of the oil pressure switch, and see if the pressure is good or not. If not, then another possibility is that the engine (bearings mainly) is worn out such that it now requires too high a volume of oil to keep the pressure high enough.

This assumes that you are using the correct (5W20) weight oil, or at least close to it.

 

[mmm]

Temporarily install a mechanical oil pressure test gauge instead of the oil pressure switch, and see if the pressure is good or not. If not, then another possibility is that the engine (bearings mainly) is worn out such that it now requires too high a volume of oil to keep the pressure high enough.

This assumes that you are using the correct (5W20) weight oil, or at least close to it.

I don't have easy access to a mechanical pressure gauge, if I did would that be screwed in where the oil pressure switch goes?.....Where exactly is that, near the oil filter?

Wow, did not wanna hear "bad engine"....is this the only symptom of "bad engine bearings"?
Which is most common fix for this issue?

Ya, using 5W20....

 

[1bad4.6l]

Try the switch first it's cheap and easy. If no one tells you where it is located go buy the part and find the thing on the motor and replace it. If that don't fix it try a thicker weight oil. The only thing wrong is that things are worn and not broke yet. It's not trash yet don't worry.

I had a town car that had 350,000 miles on it and I had to run straight 50 weight oil in her to keep oil pressure at a stoplight. So don't worry yet.

 

[mmm]

Try the switch first it's cheap and easy. If no one tells you where it is located go buy the part and find the thing on the motor and replace it. If that don't fix it try a thicker weight oil. The only thing wrong is that things are worn and not broke yet. It's not trash yet don't worry.

I had a town car that had 350,000 miles on it and I had to run straight 50 weight oil in her to keep oil pressure at a stoplight. So don't worry yet.

Thanks for the info, that last post had me really worried, because I definitely can't afford to have my engine going bad. Mileage is at about 118,000 by the way.

I think I'm going to try the oil pressure switch, because it is only around $15 at the part store, definitely cheaper. I just have to find out where it goes, but I don't think that will be too much of a problem once I can get under there.

Do you know how you can tell if the oil pump is going bad?
The LS calls out for 5w/20 would switching to 5w30 be a good move?

thanks again.

 

[mmm]

Try the switch first it's cheap and easy. If no one tells you where it is located go buy the part and find the thing on the motor and replace it. If that don't fix it try a thicker weight oil. The only thing wrong is that things are worn and not broke yet. It's not trash yet don't worry.

I had a town car that had 350,000 miles on it and I had to run straight 50 weight oil in her to keep oil pressure at a stoplight. So don't worry yet.

I posted a reply earlier & for some reason it's gone now, hmmmm...

Thanks for the post, not as worried as I was earlier...definitely can't afford a new engine...

Imma gonna try the switch, only $15 at part store.
The manual calls out for 5W20, would switching to 5W30 be a good move?

Does anyone know of a way to tell if the oil pump is bad, what is a good tell-tell sign, assuming of course the switch doesn't fix & pressure is measured low...

Thanks again

 

[mmm]

I posted two replies and neither have shown up...hmmmm....

Thanks for the info, not stressing as much as I was earlier, definitely can't afford an engine. FYI: about 118,000

I'm going to try the oil pressure switch, only $15 at the parts store. I don't think it'll be too much trouble trying to find it, hopefully not getting it off either.

The manual says to use 5W20, do you think 5W30 is a good change?

Does anyone know if there is a specific way, other than the check oil light going on, to tell that the oil pump is going bad?....(assuming of course that the pressure switch doesn't fix it and the actual pressure reading using a guage is low)...

thanks again.

 

[oddball]

The manual says to use 5W20, do you think 5W30 is a good change?

If you see the issue when the engine is hot, then 5WXX will act the same. the second number is the weight when cold, first is when hot. Might need to move to a 10w30 or higher. The engine was designed for 5w20, so anything lighter should be a concern. At least a "motor won't make it another 100k" kind of concern.

 

[mmm]

If you see the issue when the engine is hot, then 5WXX will act the same. the second number is the weight when cold, first is when hot. Might need to move to a 10w30 or higher. The engine was designed for 5w20, so anything lighter should be a concern. At least a "motor won't make it another 100k" kind of concern.

I do see the issue when the engine is hot, well after driving about 5 miles, but not when I first start the car. So I guess that would indicate that if a change of oil would help it would be to go thicker. Right?

I believe the first number is associated with cold which in my case is 5w.
The second number is the performance of the oil at "normal" operating temperature of engine or hot.

So moving from 5w20 to 5w30 is actually moving to a thicker oil at "hot" temps. If I'm wrong, someone correct me.

 

[joegr]

I do see the issue when the engine is hot, well after driving about 5 miles, but not when I first start the car. So I guess that would indicate that if a change of oil would help it would be to go thicker. Right?

I believe the first number is associated with cold which in my case is 5w.
The second number is the performance of the oil at "normal" operating temperature of engine or hot.

So moving from 5w20 to 5w30 is actually moving to a thicker oil at "hot" temps. If I'm wrong, someone correct me.

I'm no oil expert. Here's someone who claims to be.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=frontpage&Itemid=1

I believe that you are right in that the 20 is the number that you may want to change, not the 5. (The best oil normally to use is 0W20, and Ford approves of it. The lower the first number, the better.) The LS engines were first designed for 5W30, and then moved to 5W20 when the improved oil became available. So, I think that 5W30 would be okay to buy you some extra time.

 

[mmm]

I believe that you are right in that the 20 is the number that you may want to change, not the 5. (The best oil normally to use is 0W20, and Ford approves of it. The lower the first number, the better.) The LS engines were first designed for 5W30, and then moved to 5W20 when the improved oil became available. So, I think that 5W30 would be okay to buy you some extra time.

Thanks for the info.

 

[mmm]

So I attempted to replace the Oil Pressure Switch and unless I'm wrong, it is almost impossible to get to without removing major components that definitely would turn into a project.

I am going to start a new thread asking for help with the location of the Oil Pressure Switch, just to make sure I am looking at the right part. I say this because the part I think is it, I can only see the harness going to it, thats how tight it is.

As for the oil switch, I think I am going to do that tomorrow. Gonna switch to 5w30, hopefully that helps, even if it's only a little.

 

[joegr]

So I attempted to replace the Oil Pressure Switch and unless I'm wrong, it is almost impossible to get to without removing major components that definitely would turn into a project.

I am going to start a new thread asking for help with the location of the Oil Pressure Switch, just to make sure I am looking at the right part. I say this because the part I think is it, I can only see the harness going to it, thats how tight it is.

As for the oil switch, I think I am going to do that tomorrow. Gonna switch to 5w30, hopefully that helps, even if it's only a little.

The service manual says that nothing has to be removed to change out the oil pressure switch. Of course, that could be wrong.

 

[mmm]

The service manual says that nothing has to be removed to change out the oil pressure switch. Of course, that could be wrong.

Really??....Well that throws me for a loop because I thought I found it, but what I found you'd have to remove parts, due to the tight space it's in.

I guess I need to get a hold of a diagram to verify.

Thanks.

 

[mmm]

Thanks to "LS4me" , was able to get a diagram from the manual for the oil pressure switch. Definitely not accessible "easily". There goes my "easy fix".

It was mentioned that I should try a mechanical pressure gauge, are these placed where pressure switch goes or can they be placed elsewhere, maybe in place of oil cap?

What should the pressure reading be?
(When I take to the shop tomorrow, don't want to be duped by the shop into thinking oil pump or engine is "bad" if you know what I'm saying.

I was able to get a picture of the pressure switch on my vehicle and it appears that there is a fresh oil film on the threads and the base of the connector.

Am I wrong to assume that this is a good sign that the pressure switch is the culprit?

Thanks once again.

 

[joegr]

The pressure should be over 60 PSI. No, you can't measure it anywhere other than the oil pressure switch, unless you could modify an oil filter to add a pressure gauge.

 

[mmm]

The pressure should be over 60 PSI. No, you can't measure it anywhere other than the oil pressure switch, unless you could modify an oil filter to add a pressure gauge.

Thanks so much for the info. That's probably a good thing, because the shop only charges a $90 flat fee to check my oil pressure / troubleshoot. That means I can get them to replace the oil pressure switch for part cost only, since they have to remove for gauge anyways. The oil on the threads tells me, good or not, probably should be replaced. Hopefully that's all it takes.

Thanks again.

 

[Arkansas Chris]

Did you ever get it fixed? I'm having same problems... Any help would do...