Ontario guys I need help!!!

SPSully

SPSully

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I'm looking for a place in south central Ontario that oes custom machining. I am pulling the motor apart this winter and want to get some parts made for the turbo build. I'm in orangeville, but can travel a bit. I can send it out to non local places, but I prefer to have someone I can choke if need be lol
 
ok so after looking at a map.... I can do upper michigan and the buffalo area as well.
 
If this is in regards to custom engine internals then I would stick with the bigger named companies like Oliver for the rods and so on. The tolerance at which they manufacture items is very high and they do it all the time. It will be expensive but you will get what you paid for. Oliver can do a billet crank for you too. Manley, Mahle and Oliver are three bigger and well proven rod makers that I can think of off the top.
 
yeah I had thought of that. I just dont like shipping things to people.... it does seem like the smarter way to go
 
i wouldn't cheap out now... sounds like you have a huge plan for this thing... I know you would hate to waste money... mahle or oliver i have delt with both and they make GREAT products
 
Manley replied today. The minimum purchase would be 40 pieces of each (rods and pistons only no crank) so unless I have 4 other turbo LS's that want some SERIOUS power, they are out of the question.
 
know how hard it is to convince people that thier 350-400hp should be more like 550-600?
 
NHLSV8 said:
Manley replied today. The minimum purchase would be 40 pieces of each (rods and pistons only no crank) so unless I have 4 other turbo LS's that want some SERIOUS power, they are out of the question.
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That is probably a forged rod pricing. They cannot make forged rods in small quantities because of the tooling process required for it. Ask for billet rods. They can make those in much much smaller runs because they are CNC machined versus forged.


contact: support@oliver-rods.com

"The cranks that we have made for the Jaguar, were 3.250" stroke so we could use the same crank and stroke it out to 3.350". Ball park price for the rods will be in the $250 per rod range and a crank (also a billet) will be $2744."


This is the email reply I received from Oliver Racing as of January 2005.
 
NHLSV8 said:
someone get that man a beer!!!!



wait a tic.... 05? you been holding out on me? LMAO
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I have mentioned that Oliver Racing will make custom billet rods and crank for these cars probably about 5 times on various occasions on this forum over the last few years.
 
NHLSV8 said:
Manley replied today. The minimum purchase would be 40 pieces of each (rods and pistons only no crank) so unless I have 4 other turbo LS's that want some SERIOUS power, they are out of the question.
Click to expand...

Give me some kind of price and I'd have to go from there. Wouldn't be for 6 months or so...
 
i didnt get a price from them, but I'm guessing about 5k for rods and pistons.... plus you'll need some kind of FI to benifit and a crank would be a massive help as well.
 
For custom pistons you might want to talk to Ross, CP, or Diamond. They make good pistons and do custom orders. Expect to pay around $800-$1000 for a set of custom pistons unless they can adapt an existing one of theirs easily.

What I would do if I were you is:

1) Get a stocker piston, crank, connecting rod in hand. This will allow measurements and mockup to take place much more easily.

2) Get the pistons first. If the company you do end up going through has a similar enough one in stock then it would probably be best to go with that. However if the wrist pin depth is different than the stocker one then you will run into a problem where you are pushing the piston too far into the cylinder (or not enough) with a stock length rod. You will want the depth to be very similar to stock but if it is just a hair off then you can work through that. If it is too far off then you could run into possible issues of rod contact with bottom cylinder skirt wall due to the modified rod geometry which would not be good.

3) Get your connecting rods and crank done. Now you can get your crank and rods done. Based upon what you encountered with the pistons in step 2 will dictate whether you go with a stock length rod or have the design slightly shortened or lengthened to keep the same total length as stock.
 
Custom Internals

As those who've been following the very slow progress of my engine build ('Land Speed LS') know, I've done a somewhat different progression. After doing the necessary 'book study', I went to Moldex Tool for my crank. The stroke has stayed at the factory 86 MM of the 4 litre Jaguar. By using the commonly-utilized 1.88 crank throw of the Indy Olds/Chevrolet/Honda Pro Stock, I've availed myself of readily-found HP bearings and almost-production-dimension rods. Working with the guys at Ross, we've built a set of pistons that have the nominal 86 MM diameter of the aforementioned 4 liter Jag (or, for that matter, the LS 3.9). They also utilize the .927 wrist pin of the SBC for extra strength and because there's a plethora of HP items available in this size. The pin is at the factory 4 litre location in the piston. There's still room to locate a ring package without interfering with the pin. I have both the pistons and the crank 'in hand'.

The rods (aluminium) are being made to the size necessary to fit the pin on the small end and the 1.88 race bearing on the other and to be of a length to properly fill the space between so that the pistons are 'zero-decked'.

The rods are close enough to SBC size as to cause no problems for the manufacturer. Even at that, they are taking a LOOOONG time to be finished. But that's what you must expect when going for full-custom pieces.

KS
 
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My intentions are to sell my LS just before I head overseas for a while, at which time I'm going to buy an 04 Cobra. When I return, I'm interested in buying an 06 LS and an additional daily driver with good mileage (condition not a factor! :) ). Anyhow, I'd then have most all of the automotive toys I realistically want short of a Jeep (I'd love a Ford GT, but that's a bit out of my ballpark right now). The LS would be seeing some attention in the suspension and engine departments. I'd like to see 350-400 RWHP on the LS after building the engine and utilizing quik's supercharger kit. So a cost efficient (relative that is) engine build up is something i'm interested in.

I'd be happy with a billet steel crank, forged steel rods and forged alum pistons; that should in theory be good for more HP than I want to make (or realistically could make with the M90 blower). Ken, if you had to take a guesstimate at what I'd be looking at for costs, care to take a stab at it? Being in Lansing, I'd likely get the crank from the same shop you got yours; they should already have a good idea of what I'm shooting for.
 
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