Overheating Issue in a 2003 LSV8

[JohnDoss01]

Hey all, I just recently replaced the Water Outlet and Thermostat on my LS, and I am now having an overheating problem. Before replacing the parts, I never had any problems with overheating but, now I can't drive the car for more than 15 minutes without the temp gauge maxing out. I tested the thermostat before I installed it, and it opened right around 195-200* so I know that is not the problem.
I have done a little research here, and my next plan is to bleed the system to see if that helps anything. Could someone supply me with the procedure for bleeding an '03 LS with the V8?

 

[AmsterDutch]

Hey all, I just recently replaced the Water Outlet and Thermostat on my LS, and I am now having an overheating problem. Before replacing the parts, I never had any problems with overheating but, now I can't drive the car for more than 15 minutes without the temp gauge maxing out. I tested the thermostat before I installed it, and it opened right around 195-200* so I know that is not the problem.
I have done a little research here, and my next plan is to bleed the system to see if that helps anything. Could someone supply me with the procedure for bleeding an '03 LS with the V8?

1. Remove the engine fill cap.

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1. Open the heater air bleed.

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1. Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added.

1. Install the degas bottle cap.

CAUTION: Care must be taken to make sure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine coolant.

1. Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open.

1. Install the engine fill cap.
   • Install the engine fill cap until contact is made and then tighten an additional 45 degrees (1/8 turn).

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1. NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.
   
   Start the engine and turn the heater to the defrost (90°F) position.

1. Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant escapes during engine idle.

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1. Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark.

1. Reopen the heater air bleed to release any trapped air and close again.

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1. Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.

1. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.

1. Set the heater temperature setting to 24°C (75°F) and allow the vehicle to idle for 2 minutes.

1. Shut the engine off and allow to cool.

1. After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark.

 

[AmsterDutch]

This is not the easiest car to bleed...I've had opportunities to talk to many Mechanics who tried the bleeding procedure by the Workshop manual with no success ...if this is the case I suggest having it professionally bled with the SNAP-ON pressurized tool that most Independent shops will have or go to a Ford Quick Lane Shop...Note: You may want the nose of the car pointing downward for better luck at bleeding the system ....Good Luck

 

[joegr]

Also, it works better if the front of the car is lower than the rest of the car. If you raise the front instead, then it is very difficult to get it bled correctly.

 

[tireman]

it may not be the bleeding procedure. check all connectors in the system from leaks, check the res bottle cap for tightness. the plastics in the system are prone to crack or gap allowing air into the system. watch the engine when started, have someone else start it and watch for leaks, sometimes they dry up before you can see them.