overheating on 200ls

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mpetro126

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i replaced the fan the thermostat did the bleeding steps still overheats. i can drive for hours with no problem but when i turn the a/c on it overheats after awhile when i stop driving.it also overheated on a hot day when i a was parked in idle waiting to get my car wash it was about 10 min of wait time i shut it of wait for it to cool down only about 20 min started the car up temp was ok drove let it sit in driveway temp went 3/4 but didnt over heat gave the engine a litttle reving overheated
 
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mpetro126 said:
i replaced the fan the thermostat did the bleeding steps still overheats. i can drive for hours with no problem but when i turn the a/c on it overheats after awhile when i stop driving.it also overheated on a hot day when i a was parked in idle waiting to get my car wash it was about 10 min of wait time i shut it of wait for it to cool down only about 20 min started the car up temp was ok drove let it sit in driveway temp went 3/4 but didnt over heat gave the engine a litttle reving overheated
Click to expand...

There is more to bleeding the system than opening the bleed valve by the brake master cylinder. Did you leave the cap off near the front of the intake manifold as you filled the system? If not, you may have trapped some air.

Another idea is to check for debris between the radiator and A/C condenser coil. For some reason, leaves and stuff likes to find its way up in there, possibly blocking off some airflow.
 
Actually, the cap in front of the intake (10mm hex) is the highest point of the system, and if you look a little closer at it, you will see that the hose for the overflow is right up top of it. Check a service man. the bleed point is on the overflow, the point of that cap on the intake is simply for filling. if you were to use the fill port as your bleed port, you would still have an air bubble in the top section of that poort, as well as the hose at the thermostat.

On another note, get your overflow cap pressure tested. if it is not able to hold 15psi the system will not function properly.
 
mikepietras04 said:
Actually, the cap in front of the intake (10mm hex) is the highest point of the system, and if you look a little closer at it, you will see that the hose for the overflow is right up top of it. Check a service man. the bleed point is on the overflow, the point of that cap on the intake is simply for filling. if you were to use the fill port as your bleed port, you would still have an air bubble in the top section of that poort, as well as the hose at the thermostat.

On another note, get your overflow cap pressure tested. if it is not able to hold 15psi the system will not function properly.
Click to expand...

There is more than one bleed point. That's what helps make the LS a little tricky to flush & fill.
 
Fill Port: in front of intake manifold atop of thermostat housing

ECT Sensor: on pass side head below intake manifold

TB preheat: bottom two ports on TB, connect to therm housing

Heater Core Send/Return: Under cowl next to cabin air filter housing

These are all highpoints in the system that could be possible points of trapped air.
To bleed the system: First pressure test the overflow cap. Remove the fill cap atop the thermostat housing and fill to top with coolant. Let the car reach operating temperature, and allow thermostat to open fully (the LS V8 uses a waxstat and will take time to fully open, you can feel the return hose after the thermostsat to see if it is fully opened). To help get air bubbles to the top/front, jack up the front end only, and let system run. Open the bleed valve on the overflow and let all air out (some coolant will come out as well).

Apparently some of you think there is another bleed point, so instead of saying "there is more than one bleed point" why don't you humor me, and let me know of it. Seems like you know of a point that ford doesn't know about.
 
mikepietras04 said:
Apparently some of you think there is another bleed point, so instead of saying "there is more than one bleed point" why don't you humor me, and let me know of it. Seems like you know of a point that ford doesn't know about.
Click to expand...

*owned*
 
If you remove the cover over the radiator and headlights (4 twist clips) then remove the two radiator shock mount brackets, you can rock the radiator back towards the engine and clean debris between the radiator and condensor better. Try to flush with water, or light compressed air not damaging any fins.
 
Apparently some of you think there is another bleed point, so instead of saying "there is more than one bleed point" why don't you humor me, and let me know of it. Seems like you know of a point that ford doesn't know about.[/QUOTE]


I would post the procedure from the service cd, if I knew how.

SECTION 303-03: Engine Cooling 2000 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

GENERAL PROCEDURES

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Cooling System Draining, Filling And Bleeding

Draining

WARNING: Never remove the pressure relief cap while the engine is operating or when the cooling system is hot. Failure to follow these instructions can result in damage to the cooling system or engine or personal injury. To avoid having scalding hot coolant or steam blow out of the degas bottle when removing the pressure relief cap, wait until the engine has cooled, then wrap a thick cloth around the pressure relief cap and turn it slowly. Step back while the pressure is released from the cooling system. When you are sure all the pressure has been released, (still with a cloth) turn and remove the pressure relief cap.

CAUTION: The coolant must be recovered in a suitable, clean container for reuse. If the coolant is contaminated it must be recycled or disposed of correctly.

CAUTION: Care must be taken to ensure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine coolant.

Release the pressure in the cooling system by slowly turning the pressure relief cap one half turn counterclockwise. When the pressure is released, remove the pressure relief cap.
NOTE: Approximately four liters will drain from the radiator.

Place a suitable container below the radiator draincock. If equipped, disconnect the coolant return hose at the oil cooler.
Close the radiator draincock when finished.

Filling—Bleeding

On 3.9L engines


Remove the engine fill cap.

On 3.0L engines


Open the engine air bleed.

On all engines


Open the heater air bleed.

Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added.
On 3.0L engines


Close the engine air bleed when coolant begins to escape.

On all engines


Replace the degas bottle cap.
On 3.9L engines


CAUTION: Care must be taken to ensure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine coolant.

Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open.
Replace the engine fill cap.

On all engines


NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.

Start the engine and turn the heater to MAX position.
Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant comes from it, during engine idle.

Allow the engine to idle for five minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark.
Reopen the heater air bleed to release any entrapped air and close again.

On 3.9L engines


Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.
Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
On 3.0L engines


Maintain engine speed of 1,500 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.
Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
On all engines


Set the heater temperature setting to 24° C (75° F) and allow the vehicle to idle for two minutes.
Shut the engine off and allow to cool.
After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Did this work??
 
that is only for a complete flush/drain... the purpose of the process is to get coolant through the heater core.

if there was a significantly large air pocket in the heater core, heat output from the vents would be minimal, if any.
 
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mikepietras04 said:
that is only for a complete flush/drain... the purpose of the process is to get coolant through the heater core.

if there was a significantly large air pocket in the heater core, heat output from the vents would be minimal, if any.
Click to expand...

Actually, the LS doesn't need a very big air bubble at all to cause an overheat situation.
 
For clarification, the V6s have 2 bleed ports and the V8s only have the one "heater air bleed" above the brake booster, near the "degas" bottle (as noted in the above procedure, however since I have a V8 I don't know the location of the "engine air bleed" on the V6s).

Yes, this procedure must be followed closely to get all the air out. Any trapped air, even if it is only in the heater coil, will eventually find its way to a location that will cause overheating.
 
LS4me said:
Actually, the LS doesn't need a very big air bubble at all to cause an overheat situation.
Click to expand...


So you post a system drain/fill procedure. You muigh want to notice that the person in this post is referring to a 3.9, which only has one bleed. Okay, you are obviously the expert on this. Considering you have worked on ONLY your own LS, and you have your cool little service manual CD. The fact that i work on cars daily, and we buy atleast 3 LS's a month at our dealer (www.rouenauto.com) must not mean anything. My DEALER service manuals, and DVD's must all be wrong. And if my word isnt enough, then you must know alot more than my dad, who agree's with me on this procedure. (http://www.thecarshow.com/stars.htm) Not too many World Class Technician's out there, now are there?

Now, mind you I am not looking to insult you, or try to put myself above you. But, it is wrong for you to mislead someone with nonsense.

So, since you have the LS experience, all around automotive experience for that matter... ill let you take over this thread.
 
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mikepietras04 said:
So you post a system drain/fill procedure. You muigh want to notice that the person in this post is referring to a 3.9, which only has one bleed. Okay, you are obviously the expert on this. Considering you have worked on ONLY your own LS, and you have your cool little service manual CD. The fact that i work on cars daily, and we buy atleast 3 LS's a month at our dealer (www.rouenauto.com) must not mean anything. My DEALER service manuals, and DVD's must all be wrong. And if my word isnt enough, then you must know alot more than my dad, who agree's with me on this procedure. (http://www.thecarshow.com/stars.htm) Not too many World Class Technician's out there, now are there?

Now, mind you I am not looking to insult you, or try to put myself above you. But, it is wrong for you to mislead someone with nonsense.

So, since you have the LS experience, all around automotive experience for that matter... ill let you take over this thread.
Click to expand...


Why don't you take a valium and wake up in the morning? My only point was that it doesn't take much of an airpocket to cause an overheat situation. I guess the book "How to win friends and influence enemies" has never crossed your desk. SHEEEESH!

Later
 
Hey, I appologize..I didn't mean to piss you off or anything. But the being up late thing was a bit much, had some problems with the woman last night and was out late. (i wont get too personal)

Anyways, I do NOT dissagree with your post about the LS only needing a small air pocket...you are totally right. I was simply arguing the bleed procedure on the 3.9. :thread:
 
mine did the same thing when i was on the highway doing about 80 come to find out my radiator hose was busted i was out about $125 it was the hard plastic part had split down the center
 
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