Damit dudes! I was on my way to work in th emorning when my 2000 LS flashed the engine temperature alarm and right after that engine power reduced. Luckily iy happened as I was exiting the highway and my dealer is only half a block away from my job place. I get a call back from them telling me I have a hydraulic coolant pump sutdown and coolant fan as well as replacing the thermostat. Basically $1,609 worth of problems. Is this stuff something I can do myself and does anyone know a way to work arounf this high cost and problem?
Overheating Problems
- Thread starter rrrick
- Start date
Motts
Dedicated LVC Member
'rrrick said:
did they say that your warranty wouldnt cover it?
1wykdmk8
LvC Dues Collector
If you can use basic hand tools you can perform what need to be done. Other than the factory parts you will need to get some antifreeze.
Give Max a call at 1-800-866-1520 ext.236 for the parts that you need. He can get them for you......and it will save you ALOT of money. :Beer
Give Max a call at 1-800-866-1520 ext.236 for the parts that you need. He can get them for you......and it will save you ALOT of money. :Beer
Motts
Dedicated LVC Member
MAN THATS ROUGH.... I had the same problem but it was a broken radiator hose.. i would attempt this job myself if i were you.. give Max a call
Jim Henderson
Dedicated LVC Member
Whew, boy am I glad I have the electric fans and not that funky hydraulic one.
From what I have read on this site, the job is not technically difficult other than tight spaces.
I need to remember to quit buying cars that have "special" components that cost an arm and a leg to buy or replace.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
From what I have read on this site, the job is not technically difficult other than tight spaces.
I need to remember to quit buying cars that have "special" components that cost an arm and a leg to buy or replace.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Sounds to be like a crock. Rather than troubleshoot to find the problem, it looks like they are content just to throw parts at it and hope it fixes it. I highly doubt all of these parts need replaced......in fact, these are a few of the most common problems with the 2000-2002 LS. I would scan through a few of the threads to isolate your problem a little bit more. There are ways to see which components are bad..........I have posted on several of them. Before you shell out 1600, do some homework and get back to us.rrrick said:
To put this in perspective, I took my car in to the FLM shop to have them fix the overheating and they replaced the thermostat. I still had the problem and I took it back and they said I needed the hydraulic pump and fan motor.......after talking to the service advisor, he told me just to replace both of them since they weren't sure which part was bad. I took it home and replaced the pump and have been problem free.
They are using the shotgun approach. That's the best thing to do when money is no object, but money is an object. 
I would see if your fan is working. Maybe it is a thermostat or resevoir cap.
Good luck...I feel for ya..
I would see if your fan is working. Maybe it is a thermostat or resevoir cap.Good luck...I feel for ya..
pdzcallday
Active LVC Member
I have been fighting this coolent system in these car for over a year now. I am have another problem with this system. When I turn the a/c on it blows some what cold and if the car is not moving it will start to over heat. The temp gauge will only go to abot 3/4 of the way up. I checked the fan, works good. Just had a new resevoir and cap put in for a leak before. Is it the thermostat? If so, how hard is it to replace? any guieds....
Thanks.
Thanks.
dbuseman
New LVC Member
I had the same problem on my 2000 LS. TRY THE COOLANT RESERVOIR CAP first. It solved the problem and is worth a shot for $5. Good Luck.
shuman
LVC Member
Where canyou get the cap from? Do you need a specific cap or any radiator ca will do?
2001LS8Sport
Dedicated LVC Member
I would convert the thing to an electric fan before I would pay that. That's insane. I know it can be converted too. If my son's ever loses his hydraulic fan, I will convert it in a heart beat.
immusicman
LVC Member
help for you
Hello, I Just about guarantee that all those problems are not happening at the same time. First, start the car and see if the hydraulic fan is turning at all. If it is, then the pump is pumping. It will turn the fan very slowly even if the computer is not requesting the hydraulic fan solenoid to open. If it doesn't turn at all, even when the vehicle is above normal operating temperature, then shut the vehicle off and loosen the pressure line where it connects to the fan. Start the vehicle and see if it begins to blow alot of fluid out..DO NOT loosen it too much..just enough to allow some fluid to leak out..it will blow out like crazy if the pump is working. If it does, then your fan is bad..If it doesn't your pump is bad..I have a fan used with about 19000 miles on it. My pump malfunctioned on my car and I removed the fan and installed an electric fan made for the V-6 (though mine is a v-8) Then, I added two small 12" pusher fans on the condensor..I then installed a temp prob into the fins of the radiator and wired the fans through that and the A/C relay to kick them on all the time when the A/C is on. I bought the relay kit from advance auto parts for 62.00. The temperature is adjustable. You can then buy an imperial aftermarket fan and install it in place of your hydraulic one. I would be glad to draw up a wiring diagram for you if you decide to change to electric as I did. Or, I will sell you this hydraulic fan if you need it, for 150.00 and shipping. But pinpoint your problem first, this will save you a ton of money either way. My fan was not under warranty because my vehicle was wrecked, I bought it that way and fixed it myself..it has a reconstructed title..so I had to fix it on my own.. I was tired of the hydraulic fan anyway..I hated it. If you go to change the pump yourself..your in for lots of pain. It is very hard to remove..you have to remove the alternator, and remove the pulley from the pump which requires a puller and the bolts are very difficult to get to even then. I removed mine while the core support was not installed and it was still difficult. I had to remove it to replace a cracked timing cover. Anyway, best of luck...email me if I can help..immusicman@hotmail.com I am a mechanic who has had a little experience with this vehicle and I am glad to help in any way that I can. By the way, no matter what you do..you will have to leave your hydraulic pump on the car so that the belt will have the pulley to complete the belt travel cycle. It will function just fine as an idler pulley if you leave the resevoir half full to lubricate it.
.
Hello, I Just about guarantee that all those problems are not happening at the same time. First, start the car and see if the hydraulic fan is turning at all. If it is, then the pump is pumping. It will turn the fan very slowly even if the computer is not requesting the hydraulic fan solenoid to open. If it doesn't turn at all, even when the vehicle is above normal operating temperature, then shut the vehicle off and loosen the pressure line where it connects to the fan. Start the vehicle and see if it begins to blow alot of fluid out..DO NOT loosen it too much..just enough to allow some fluid to leak out..it will blow out like crazy if the pump is working. If it does, then your fan is bad..If it doesn't your pump is bad..I have a fan used with about 19000 miles on it. My pump malfunctioned on my car and I removed the fan and installed an electric fan made for the V-6 (though mine is a v-8) Then, I added two small 12" pusher fans on the condensor..I then installed a temp prob into the fins of the radiator and wired the fans through that and the A/C relay to kick them on all the time when the A/C is on. I bought the relay kit from advance auto parts for 62.00. The temperature is adjustable. You can then buy an imperial aftermarket fan and install it in place of your hydraulic one. I would be glad to draw up a wiring diagram for you if you decide to change to electric as I did. Or, I will sell you this hydraulic fan if you need it, for 150.00 and shipping. But pinpoint your problem first, this will save you a ton of money either way. My fan was not under warranty because my vehicle was wrecked, I bought it that way and fixed it myself..it has a reconstructed title..so I had to fix it on my own.. I was tired of the hydraulic fan anyway..I hated it. If you go to change the pump yourself..your in for lots of pain. It is very hard to remove..you have to remove the alternator, and remove the pulley from the pump which requires a puller and the bolts are very difficult to get to even then. I removed mine while the core support was not installed and it was still difficult. I had to remove it to replace a cracked timing cover. Anyway, best of luck...email me if I can help..immusicman@hotmail.com I am a mechanic who has had a little experience with this vehicle and I am glad to help in any way that I can. By the way, no matter what you do..you will have to leave your hydraulic pump on the car so that the belt will have the pulley to complete the belt travel cycle. It will function just fine as an idler pulley if you leave the resevoir half full to lubricate it.
.
Last edited:
Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
immusicman said:
welcome!!! great post.
2001LS8Sport
Dedicated LVC Member
I never thought about leaving the pump there for the idler. Great idea! That way you could leave the solenoid hooked up just fine too so no codes are thrown. I was thinking about having to have an idler built or a different belt routing. This idea might work! I am also looking into the switching process the ECM uses to control the fan speed with the solenoid. It is very possible you could use that to control some very low amp relays so the electric fan would be totally ECM controlled. But now I'm just thinking out loud...
But I know for a fact that an electric fan out of an 03 and up car and be installed and made to work just fine. Getting total control of the operation...and just how far you want to go are the only variables.
But I know for a fact that an electric fan out of an 03 and up car and be installed and made to work just fine. Getting total control of the operation...and just how far you want to go are the only variables.
shuman
LVC Member
I replaced my radiator overflow cap with one from strauss and that fixed my problem.
Original Thread here
Guess what guys! Those dealers are vultures just waiting for people to bring in their cars to rip you off. I took my car to a reputable place, this place was highly recommended. They took a look at my car and ran some checks. They were unsure what the problem was at first but they started with the least expensive thing, the thermostat. Turns out after the thermostat was installed
they found a bubble in the coolant system. Its been a month now and the LS isn't overheating anymore. So my advice is stay away from the dealer. They wanted $1600, to fix something I paid $168 for.
Guess what guys! Those dealers are vultures just waiting for people to bring in their cars to rip you off. I took my car to a reputable place, this place was highly recommended. They took a look at my car and ran some checks. They were unsure what the problem was at first but they started with the least expensive thing, the thermostat. Turns out after the thermostat was installed
they found a bubble in the coolant system. Its been a month now and the LS isn't overheating anymore. So my advice is stay away from the dealer. They wanted $1600, to fix something I paid $168 for.
lexdiamondz10304
Dedicated LVC Member
rrrick said:
Great for you, and great head up for us!!!!......thanks..