GMAN
Dedicated LVC Member
Well, I am starting to get nickel and dimed with little thing. Now My passenger window will not go up unless I pull up on it as I depress the power window button. What needs to be fixed or replaced?
Passenger Window
- Thread starter GMAN
- Start date
TheBigRedOne
Well-Known LVC Member
GMAN said:
Does the motor run when you push the button? If so, the gear inside is stripped. There is a metal gear inside the main driven gear than is splined with 3 nylon cylinders.
The metal gear has 3 semi-circular notches in it that fit over the 3 cylinders. The cylinders are designed to shatter if any excessive loadsor binding are placed on the motor so the motor won't burn up.
All you have to do is remove the door panel following the directions here. Unplug the window motor, unscrew the three bolts holding the motor in and remove the motor.
There are directions for opening up the motor here.
You can buy the nylon cylinders at any auto parts store like Advance or Auto Zonein the HELP section, or you can get them at MN-12Performance wiith a new main gear.
Hope this helps.
GMAN
Dedicated LVC Member
Thanks, Looks like it's going to be a serious project for me this weekend. :Bang
JC1994
Dedicated LVC Member
I hear ya on the nickel and dime, seems like I get one thing fixed and something else breaks. oh well beats makin' a monthly car payment.GMAN said:
Lincolns Own
Beast In Disguise
that happened to the drivers window on mine...heres what i did
go to advanced auto parts and buy a used one for $80 or around that.
then replace it, and take ur broke one back to them, and they will give you $20 back. (they fix them and sell them back)
lifetime guaranty :wrench
go to advanced auto parts and buy a used one for $80 or around that.
then replace it, and take ur broke one back to them, and they will give you $20 back. (they fix them and sell them back)
lifetime guaranty :wrench
GMAN
Dedicated LVC Member
Just wondering, I can buy a repair kit and repair the bushings in the motor, or I can buy a nother motor on Ebay for $30.00. What would you do?
TheBigRedOne
Well-Known LVC Member
GMAN said:
I would buy the nylon pieces and fix it, because you don't know what condition the ebay motor is in, and the nylon pieces may be bad in it as well or it may work now, but on the verge of going bad. The HELP kit is part number 74410 and is only 7.98 HERE. It only takes an hour or two to do it yourself (if you've never done it before) Plus you would have to wait for it to be shipped.
Mike Donley
GMAN
Dedicated LVC Member
Well, I finished the job. It was relatively easy to do. My only grip is how weak the clips are. I lost the clips on the power lock module, and the clip that covers the mirror. That one broke off completely.
As far as the power window motor is concerned. I bough the three bushings at the auto parts store for $4.99. When I opened the housing, the old ones looked like shredded cheese. It was totally obliterated. If anyone has to do this fix, on the difficulty scale, it is about a 2.
As far as the power window motor is concerned. I bough the three bushings at the auto parts store for $4.99. When I opened the housing, the old ones looked like shredded cheese. It was totally obliterated. If anyone has to do this fix, on the difficulty scale, it is about a 2.
JC1994
Dedicated LVC Member
good to know...:Beer
Ok, my driverside window hasn't been working, I can hear the motor, but it requires manual assistance. I just replaced the 3 brushing and the old ones were "shredded cheese" as gman said. But I hooked back up the motor and it still doesn't work. The one thing I think may be pertinent to my issue is that I can manually open and close the window any time (i.e. from outside the car if I get a good enough grip). What is this indicative of?
I was for sure it would be working since the old brushings were toast and I replaced them. I followed the directions, but is there anything I might have done wrong? or is it as I suspect and there is something else wrong too?
I was for sure it would be working since the old brushings were toast and I replaced them. I followed the directions, but is there anything I might have done wrong? or is it as I suspect and there is something else wrong too?
GMAN
Dedicated LVC Member
Ok, my driverside window hasn't been working, I can hear the motor, but it requires manual assistance. I just replaced the 3 brushing and the old ones were "shredded cheese" as gman said. But I hooked back up the motor and it still doesn't work. The one thing I think may be pertinent to my issue is that I can manually open and close the window any time (i.e. from outside the car if I get a good enough grip). What is this indicative of?
I was for sure it would be working since the old brushings were toast and I replaced them. I followed the directions, but is there anything I might have done wrong? or is it as I suspect and there is something else wrong too?
Why don't you plan on coming to Houston next weekend. Hang out with me and we can get her going. Drop me a PM.
Moes8
Dedicated LVC Member
Damn you guys amaze me with your offers of hospitality.
too bad the whole world isnt as good as guys like Gman.
Heres the post
Application: Mark series, Tbird/Cougar, others with round-style window lift motor, generally1980’s.
Problem: window motor runs but is ‘stripping by’ and will not raise glass or may raise only with assistance of pulling up on the glass. This is such a universal problem that you virtually cannot own a car with this type of window lift for any time at all without running into this, especially now with aging vehicles. However, the solution is as simple as it is ingenious, as you will see.
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First, the motor/lift assembly must be removed from the door. It will be helpful to get the window into a raised or mostly raised position if possible. The door panel comes off first. There is a tubular piloting rod for the window which will need to come out so that the motor/lift will have clearance to be removed/replaced through the door inner opening. Remove its two fasteners at the top and bottom of door frame and angle it to remove it downward through the window slider. The motor/lift assembly is secured to the door frame by four aluminum rivets if it has not been previously removed. Unplug its electrical connector. The rivets will need to be drilled or cut out. I use a small angle grinder. After the rivets have been cut, the assembly will fall free and will only have to have the lift arm moved out of the window slide by moving the assembly slightly forward in order to then remove it rearward through the doorframe opening.
Now, with the motor/lift assembly at the bench, remove the three fasteners holding the motor/drive to the lift. Use care as the lift will have some spring pressure and travel as the motor unit is removed. With the motor/drive unit separated from the lift, you will observe a single Phillips-head screw remaining holding the backing plate. Remove this screw and then the backing plate. Lift out the steel drive gear. Now you will see the cause of the trouble - ‘chewed up’ pieces of plastic within the ‘three-lobed’ center of the larger nylon ring gear. For some reason of which I’m not aware, Ford Motor chose to insert three cylindrical chunks of plastic as the engagement between the nylon ring gear and the steel drive gear, and they just invariably eventually fail. I do not see any safety or noise issue as for why this design was done. Ford has in the past offered a ‘rebuilding kit’ containing a replacement nylon ring gear, the 3 plastic &# 8216;barrels’ and grease, but the ‘kit’ was quite expensive, and might not be available anymore. (Editor's note: check for availability at your local parts store). Though the first thought might be that the nylon ring gear has failed that is invariably not the case and therefore a replacement for it is usually not needed. The only replacement need is for those three plastic ‘slugs’ that fit into the three lobes between the two gears.
Oddly, and very fortunately, a common hardware item, ¼" nuts (the type that fit a 7/16” wrench) are an exact fit. Six will be needed. Remove remaining chunks of plastic from the ring gear lobes. You don’t have to get every little scrap or have to remove the grease already present. De-burr the bottoms of the three lobe openings in the ring gear with a screwdriver. Stack two of the ¼" nuts in each of the three lobe openings, then set the steel gear on top of them and start working it down into place. A little patience will help, as well as maybe turning the nuts slightly so that their flats face the center. If the nuts come out of position, just start over. It will go together quickly, with maybe a tap or two on the gear. Even if there were to remain some play between the gears this would work, but the fit is so precise and perfect that it’s scary. Add some grease and replace the backing plate/Phillips screw. The lift will need to be held in position against its spring pressure in order to reattach the motor unit. Insert assembly back into the door and insert the lift arm pivot into the window slider. Re-install the pilot rod. Reattach the motor/lift assembly to the frame with short ¼" bolts and nuts. The lower two fasteners will be more difficult to insert and nut. Having a smaller arm that can reach through the doorframe opening helps. Reconnect the power plug, test the lift, and replace door panel.
Have you ever seen a better, cheaper fix for anything?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Application: Mark series, Tbird/Cougar, others with round-style window lift motor, generally1980’s.
Problem: window motor runs but is ‘stripping by’ and will not raise glass or may raise only with assistance of pulling up on the glass. This is such a universal problem that you virtually cannot own a car with this type of window lift for any time at all without running into this, especially now with aging vehicles. However, the solution is as simple as it is ingenious, as you will see.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
First, the motor/lift assembly must be removed from the door. It will be helpful to get the window into a raised or mostly raised position if possible. The door panel comes off first. There is a tubular piloting rod for the window which will need to come out so that the motor/lift will have clearance to be removed/replaced through the door inner opening. Remove its two fasteners at the top and bottom of door frame and angle it to remove it downward through the window slider. The motor/lift assembly is secured to the door frame by four aluminum rivets if it has not been previously removed. Unplug its electrical connector. The rivets will need to be drilled or cut out. I use a small angle grinder. After the rivets have been cut, the assembly will fall free and will only have to have the lift arm moved out of the window slide by moving the assembly slightly forward in order to then remove it rearward through the doorframe opening.
Now, with the motor/lift assembly at the bench, remove the three fasteners holding the motor/drive to the lift. Use care as the lift will have some spring pressure and travel as the motor unit is removed. With the motor/drive unit separated from the lift, you will observe a single Phillips-head screw remaining holding the backing plate. Remove this screw and then the backing plate. Lift out the steel drive gear. Now you will see the cause of the trouble - ‘chewed up’ pieces of plastic within the ‘three-lobed’ center of the larger nylon ring gear. For some reason of which I’m not aware, Ford Motor chose to insert three cylindrical chunks of plastic as the engagement between the nylon ring gear and the steel drive gear, and they just invariably eventually fail. I do not see any safety or noise issue as for why this design was done. Ford has in the past offered a ‘rebuilding kit’ containing a replacement nylon ring gear, the 3 plastic &# 8216;barrels’ and grease, but the ‘kit’ was quite expensive, and might not be available anymore. (Editor's note: check for availability at your local parts store). Though the first thought might be that the nylon ring gear has failed that is invariably not the case and therefore a replacement for it is usually not needed. The only replacement need is for those three plastic ‘slugs’ that fit into the three lobes between the two gears.
Oddly, and very fortunately, a common hardware item, ¼" nuts (the type that fit a 7/16” wrench) are an exact fit. Six will be needed. Remove remaining chunks of plastic from the ring gear lobes. You don’t have to get every little scrap or have to remove the grease already present. De-burr the bottoms of the three lobe openings in the ring gear with a screwdriver. Stack two of the ¼" nuts in each of the three lobe openings, then set the steel gear on top of them and start working it down into place. A little patience will help, as well as maybe turning the nuts slightly so that their flats face the center. If the nuts come out of position, just start over. It will go together quickly, with maybe a tap or two on the gear. Even if there were to remain some play between the gears this would work, but the fit is so precise and perfect that it’s scary. Add some grease and replace the backing plate/Phillips screw. The lift will need to be held in position against its spring pressure in order to reattach the motor unit. Insert assembly back into the door and insert the lift arm pivot into the window slider. Re-install the pilot rod. Reattach the motor/lift assembly to the frame with short ¼" bolts and nuts. The lower two fasteners will be more difficult to insert and nut. Having a smaller arm that can reach through the doorframe opening helps. Reconnect the power plug, test the lift, and replace door panel.
Have you ever seen a better, cheaper fix for anything?
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