Possibly a related problem??

[Bermuda]

ok so my A/C has been temperamental sense I got the car (95 LSC) but since I live in MI it hasnt been a big deal, but the other day I started the car and it stuttered like there was a vacuum leak or bad gas or something and then died and when I started it again all was fine and I havent been able to recreate the problem.

now back to the A/C issue: A/C doesnt get cold, but heat gets hot. Also, when you turn it on you can hear the blend door open and close (it blows out of the panel for a hot second, no pun intended).

you guys think these two are related/there's a vacuum leak somewhere?

 

[unity]

The heater core is always hot on a Mark VIII. If the AC does not get cold, then its probably a low charge. Until you check the charge, there is little one can go on.

 

[Bermuda]

The pipe near the low pressure of the A?C system gets cold when i turn it on (so I assume my charge is good).

EATC self test gives me a "02" code (blend door)
it only checks for electronic problems I know.

I hear the door opening (and then closing shortly after) when I turn I direct the Heat/AC to VENT

 

[Sapperfire]

What...vent is just ambient air ...pop the hood, start car, hit max ac button, see if ac clutch on the compressor is cycling.
Or go buy a can of freon that has the guage attached and check the pressure, should have 2 lbs

 

[LaserSVT]

The pipe near the low pressure of the A?C system gets cold when i turn it on (so I assume my charge is good).

EATC self test gives me a "02" code (blend door)
it only checks for electronic problems I know.

I hear the door opening (and then closing shortly after) when I turn I direct the Heat/AC to VENT

Never assume. First check is as dumb ass points out, see if the AC clutch is engaged and if it stays engaged.

What...vent is just ambient air ...pop the hood, start car, hit max ac button, see if ac clutch on the compressor is cycling.
Or go buy a can of freon that has the guage attached and check the pressure, should have 2 lbs

Ugh, I thought I taught you better then that. You CAN NOT tell how much refrigerant (Freon is a brand and also refers to R-12) is in a system without evacuating it on a reclaim system and weigh how much came out.

A suicide kit can only give you low side pressure. That can change due to a lot of things. Compressor head pressure, ambient temps, water in the system, oil amount etc etc. It gives you a decent idea how much refrigerant is in the system assuming everything else is in order but by no means is it exact.

Thats why the PROPER way to do an AC recharge yourself (minus the first part, which is illegal) is to empty the system then put a vac in the system using a vac pump. Then have 2lbs (well 34oz to be exact)of R-134a that also contains oil and fill the system back up. I usually get one can of the synthetic stuff in the larger 18-22oz can and fill that first. Then using a 12oz can of the synthetic and oil add that. Usually the pressure is to high to drain the can so you have to add another 12oz can and use about half of it. Using the gauge just add until the needle is in the middle of the green scale.

I have added like that for many years and always have ice freakin cold systems. It works well cause you know the moister is out and you have fresh oil in the system. Plus the synthetic stuff is a good 10* colder and acts more like r-12. The large can will run about $20, one small can with removable hose and gauge will be another $20 and then a small can will be around $10. You can get it all from wally-world. The vac pump can be rented from Autozone for free. Just use the filler hose from the refrigerant cans on the pump, make sure the valve is open.

 

[Sapperfire]

I just didn't feel like typing it all AGAIN...it's in search