power window problems yet again

[Jeramy]

2004 ls v8
only the drivers side window switch will work.

i have checked all fuses

everything else works.express up and down on both front windows work with drivers side switch, i can roll all the windows up and down using the key in the driver side door lock, both door lock switches work, the roof operates flawlessly , all functions of the key pad work properly. i have tried a different drivers side window switch thinking maybe the window lock has stuck in the on position, but no change.

so my question is , i guess, does this sound like a need to reprogram or replace the REM?

is the REM even reprogrammable?

any help would be appreciated and thank you in advance

 

[fudge12]

Check the harness in the door panel, iirc the harness that plugs into the switches also plugs into another harness that goes through the door jamb into the drivers side foot well. Probably has corrosion from years of water buildup in the door. (Common problem on these cars.)

 

[Jeramy]

thank you will check into that tomorrow.

 

[joegr]

Gen II window control:
Window lock: Controlled by the master window switch and read by the DDM. The DDM then communicates the lock state to the REM. Note that the physical lock signal does not leave the driver's door. It goes on the CAN bus.
Driver's window: Controlled by the master window switch and the global open/close signal from the DDM (Driver's Door Module)
Passenger window: Controlled by the master window switch, the global open/close signal from the DDM (Driver's Door Module), the local switch on the door, and the local switch can be locked out by the REM.
Rear windows: Controlled by the REM only. The REM reads the local door switches and also receives the master window switch state and the global open/close signal from the DDM.

So, from your symptoms, the DDM is communicating with the REM. I would check the lock signal at the master switch and the DDM. This is the yellow blue wire. It goes from pin 3 of the master switch to pin 22 of the DDM. With a volt meter measure between ground and this wire. It should change between zero and some reference voltage as you turn the lock switch on and off. If not, the switch is bad. If it does, verify that this is still true at the DDM itself. If so, your DDM may be bad.

There should be nothing to reprogram to resolve this, and it doesn't sound like it will be related to any wiring coming out of the door. I haven't heard of any common wiring corrosion problems with the door wiring, while I suppose it is possible, the whole door would have to be over half full of water for it to get up to this wiring.

 

[bigdawgz]

What did you find as the problem I am having the same issue on a first gen

 

[Jeramy]

problem still exist. admittedly all i did was pull the panel and clean the connections using crc electric contact cleaner. i have tried a new switch before cleaning contacts but not after. no change in window operation. i did clean the plugins on the REM which has stopped my random service park brake light but also had no affect on the window switches. once i get caught up on some more projects around here i will break out the volt meter and wiring schematics and start chasing wires to see where the signal dies.

 

[cammerfe]

Gen II window control:
Window lock: Controlled by the master window switch and read by the DDM. The DDM then communicates the lock state to the REM. Note that the physical lock signal does not leave the driver's door. It goes on the CAN bus.
Driver's window: Controlled by the master window switch and the global open/close signal from the DDM (Driver's Door Module)
Passenger window: Controlled by the master window switch, the global open/close signal from the DDM (Driver's Door Module), the local switch on the door, and the local switch can be locked out by the REM.
Rear windows: Controlled by the REM only. The REM reads the local door switches and also receives the master window switch state and the global open/close signal from the DDM.

So, from your symptoms, the DDM is communicating with the REM. I would check the lock signal at the master switch and the DDM. This is the yellow blue wire. It goes from pin 3 of the master switch to pin 22 of the DDM. With a volt meter measure between ground and this wire. It should change between zero and some reference voltage as you turn the lock switch on and off. If not, the switch is bad. If it does, verify that this is still true at the DDM itself. If so, your DDM may be bad.

There should be nothing to reprogram to resolve this, and it doesn't sound like it will be related to any wiring coming out of the door. I haven't heard of any common wiring corrosion problems with the door wiring, while I suppose it is possible, the whole door would have to be over half full of water for it to get up to this wiring.

As always, Joe---Wow---Just WOW!
KS