Previous mechanic of my car...

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Zr0

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Was a gorilla named Magoo. Seriously.

I went to change the fuel filter the other day and then realized that my OEM tire iron doesn't fit the lugs because some tard (Magoo) apparently rounded the lug nuts. ALL of them!

So uh...does anybody have any idea of how much a tire shop will charge me roughly to get all these damn things off?
 
Had that same problem with mine. It's the crappy metal over the actual nut. I ended up tapping a 6 point socket on them and getting then off. The aggravating part is knocking the Lugnuts out of the socket.
 
Step 1: throw away the factory lug "wrench"

Step 2: buy a proper-sized X-wrench, or preferrably if you have the money, an 18" breaker bar and the necessary 6-pt socket. Factory lugs are 19mm I think

The factory Lugs do that. They're not chrome plated, but rather chrome/tin wrapped. One of mine was cranked on so hard that the socket spun the chrome wrap when I tried using bolt extractors. I had to mutilate and cut the chrome until I could hammer a 1mm-smaller socket between the nut and chrome (18mm). If you've only been using the factory wrench and 12pt sockets, a 6pt socket MAY still work.

When you get the lugs off, get a set of Dorman lug nuts for a 2004 Sebring or 1989 Mitsubishi Galant, IIRC. They're chrome plated, 21mm, a little longer, but shouldn't hit the rotor. I'm happy with them.

Use the proper tools. I learned the hard way. Always use 6pt sockets and breaker bars on high-torque applications. Save torque wrenches for the last few turns. Only use specialty tools (ratcheting wrenches, flex head ratchets, etc) when required.
 
From another thread

LDM said:
Option #1: Dorman 611-117 lug nuts (Autozone, Amazon, RockAuto)
Option #2: Chrysler Sebring/Mitsubishi MB579290 (manufacturer date of 4/1/97 or after)

I bought the Dorman's (as have others on LVC) and I am happy with them.
Click to expand...
 
I have the Dormans, they rusted within 4 months of use. Thought I was on to something big when using the Sebring nuts but ended up with the same problem again! My first LS got totaled but had the proper solid stainless ones from Chrysler, have gone through two sets of Dormans since, totally unhappy with them in the Northeast rust belt. Funny thing is, I saw one on the ground in a store parking lot one day last summer, and grabbed it. I replaced one of my rusty dormans with it and now, I have 19 rusty effing lug nuts and one that is pristine! I really need to get the right ones again. The dormans tend to rust and then get stuck in the 6 point socket. You can wire wheel them fairly clean, but they rust right back up. It ain't pretty.
 
+1 on the Dormans rusting (also in the NE)

Mine haven't gotten stuck though and haven't rusted too bad. It's just the corners. I didn't know the Chryslers were any different. I may give them a go if I run into problems again getting my nuts off ;)
 
I do have a proper x wrench for the lugs. My concern is that if I get a six point socket what are the chances of one of these little bastards getting impossibly stuck in the socket!? There are twenty of them...

Damn you Magoo...damn you.
 
for the very worst ones on mine, I had better luck hammering on a 6 point deep well impact socket, then using a breaker bar. The X wrenches are fine on good lugs, but they're pretty sloppy, and will round off really stuck lugs very easily. And IF you get a lug stuck in an X wrench, good luck getting it out.

Some of the lugs WILL get stuck (at least half on mine), at which point you have to put the socket in a vice, and use a drift (socket extension works pretty good if you don't have an actual drift) to bang the lug out. It took me well over 2 hours to pull my wheels off the first time 2 months ago.....not fun, but FAR better to do it in the garage than get the car towed once you get a flat and can't pull off a wheel on the side of the road.

Take some time and clean the studs and hub with a wire wheel or brush when you're done.
 
When they got stuck, I thread the lug/socket back onto the car 5+ turns. then hit the socket with a hammer. I think it was just moderate tapping, constantly changing direction. You can also stick a socket extension into the socket and push it to the sides in a circle like an N64 joystick in Mario Party's tug of war
 
I don't know why but the best advice I can think of is to do some dukes of hazzard style launches with your LS. the wheels will come right off when you land.
 
Zr0 said:
... Damn you Magoo...damn you.
Click to expand...



magoo.jpg

Oh Mr. Magoo, you've done it again!​


​












magoo.jpg
 
you can always get a new set from a discout tire type place.
i've used the gorilla lugs on all my rides, as well as friends
of mine and no issues with those.
 
elephantrider said:
you can always get a new set from a discout tire type place.
i've used the gorilla lugs on all my rides, as well as friends
of mine and no issues with those.
Click to expand...

I tried their spline drives. Went right through the wheel. The LS NEEDS that captive washer
 
LSFrank said:
I tried their spline drives. Went right through the wheel. The LS NEEDS that captive washer
Click to expand...

And the shaft on the nut. The LS wheels are hub-centric not lug centric; an acorn type nut won't work correctly.
 
On the socket, smear a little anti-sieze inside the socket. It will make getting the socket on the lug easier, and getting the stuck lug out a little easier. May need repeated applications.
 
Telco said:
On the socket, smear a little anti-sieze inside the socket. It will make getting the socket on the lug easier, and getting the stuck lug out a little easier. May need repeated applications.
Click to expand...

That's a damn good idea, now I feel a lot better about giving it a go...didn't want to have to buy a bunch of sockets after the lugs got stuck in them :lol:
 
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