Rear 6x9 deck speakers blown - Options?

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rcvxl14

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Well both of my rear deck speakers/woofers are blown in my '06 with the THX system. I have searched extensively on this site and others for what people have used to replace them (other than OEM) with no luck. I have also searched online for 6x9 woofers that are 2ohm and there's basically nothing out there that I can find.

I did however find a speaker foam repair kit and I was wondering if anyone has had luck with those? Just from looking at my woofers that's what seems to be wrong with them. If that's not a good route, who out there has used an aftermarket woofer that will run on the stock amp with no other modifications?

Thanks in advance!
 
I bought a Bazooka tube with 6” woofers. 4 ohm. I think if you run them in series they drop to 2 ohm. I need to do that.
 
I replaced the surrounds on my '02 6x9s a while back. Take your time and it's pretty easy.
 
I'm dealing with the same issue. Car audio store recommended I disconnect the rear deck speakers and just put in a sub. I would rather stay factory or find a better version of the same speaker for direct replacement.

I have a 2004 LSV8 Ultimate with THX system. Is this the right part:
6U5Z-18808-AA
6U5Z-18808-AA - Ford Parts Giant

If so, does anyone know of an aftermarket 6x9 sub that can replace it? I'm looking for something that has solid mids and isn't "boomy" on the base? I like a tight response on the lows... don't like too much bass.
 
theg1ft said:
...
6U5Z-18808-AA
6U5Z-18808-AA - Ford Parts Giant

If so, does anyone know of an aftermarket 6x9 sub that can replace it? I'm looking for something that has solid mids and isn't "boomy" on the base? I like a tight response on the lows... don't like too much bass.
Click to expand...

Yes, that's the correct ones.
The stock headunit does not send any mids to the rear deck subs, so looking for something with good mids isn't going to help. The stock amp doesn't do well with mids anyway.

I used some Infinity ones, but they don't make them anymore.
Infinity Reference 9632cf
 
joegr said:
Yes, that's the correct ones.
The stock headunit does not send any mids to the rear deck subs, so looking for something with good mids isn't going to help. The stock amp doesn't do well with mids anyway.

I used some Infinity ones, but they don't make them anymore.
Infinity Reference 9632cf
Click to expand...
Thanks Joe. What would I do without you! :)

The shop I took my car to expressed concern over using 6x9s with a tweeter saying "they would blow or end up frying eventually". Did you experience this with your infinity units?
 
theg1ft said:
Thanks Joe. What would I do without you! :)

The shop I took my car to expressed concern over using 6x9s with a tweeter saying "they would blow or end up frying eventually". Did you experience this with your infinity units?
Click to expand...

No. The tweeter simply never gets anything to tweet. It doesn't do anything, but it doesn't hurt anything either.

The speaker has a crossover builtin that keeps the lows from going to the tweeter. If it didn't, how would it ever not "fry" (or at least sound badly) in normal usage?

It is important that the speaker have 2 ohm impedance. Otherwise, you won't get much sound out of it and might blow the factory amp.
 
A few months back I was forced to do a full speaker replacement,,, and went with these in the rear deck.

Polk Audio DB 692

They are 4 ohm... but sound good at normal to high, (not blasting), volume levels. But then again i replaced all speakers with the Polk DB series, and no extra amplification. Like Joe said... the tweeters wont get any signal due to the fact the amp is low pass only to the rear deck.
 
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joegr said:
No. The tweeter simply never gets anything to tweet. It doesn't do anything, but it doesn't hurt anything either.

The speaker has a crossover builtin that keeps the lows from going to the tweeter. If it didn't, how would it ever not "fry" (or at least sound badly) in normal usage?

It is important that the speaker have 2 ohm impedance. Otherwise, you won't get much sound out of it and might blow the factory amp.
Click to expand...
When you put it like that I'm kind of mad at myself for not sniffing out the bullshit they were layin down. :)

I guess the factory subs are 45w rms? Need to match 45w rms as well as matching to a total impedance of 2 ohms on the entire sub+tweeter combo? Or does one look at the impedance of the sub alone?
 
04_Sport_LS said:
A few months back I was forced to do a full speaker replacement,,, and went with these in the rear deck.

Polk Audio DB 692

They are 4 ohm... but sound good at normal to high, (not blasting), volume levels. But then again i replaced all speakers with the Polk DB series, and no extra amplification. Like Joe said... the tweeters wont get any signal due to the fact the amp is low pass only to the rear deck.
Click to expand...


I love my polk bookshelf speakers. I don't want to worry too much about blowing my new speakers out though. I tend to crank the tunes a bit.
 
The DB's sound even better with matching door speakers. You could always put in a different amp for the subs. The 2 ohms would normally be for the whole speaker... but since the tweeters on a normal speaker wouldn't be driven by the sub amp,,, I'm not so sure that the amp would see the load of the tweeter because the signal wouldn't pass to the tweeter.
 
Yes, two ohms for the main driver. The tweeter impedance is irrelevant in this case.
 
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