First of all, I have turned the piston like a thousand times and it doesn't seem to go in anymore but it still won't fit over the new pads. Any Ideas what the problem is? And my 2nd question is does the bolts that hold the caliper bracket right or left hand thread. One of the sliders froze up on me which cause the need for replacement in the first place, so I need to remove the bracket to fix it. Any help would be appreciated. I'm stumped! Thanks
Rear Brake Problem 00 LS---Help!
- Thread starter gittyup87
- Start date
Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
you have to push in hard while turning - is it tough the first time. Loosen the bleeder valve and pop the top off the master cylinder to help.
The bracket bolts are normal thread but just facing away from you. Their are torqued down well - you'll need a long handle to loosen them to get the leverage....
The bracket bolts are normal thread but just facing away from you. Their are torqued down well - you'll need a long handle to loosen them to get the leverage....
eL eS
Dedicated LVC Member
Is the brake fluid cap off? It is not uncommon to spend the better part of a day twisting that pos back in.
eL eS
Dedicated LVC Member
I have been know to leave things like that on by accident so I thought I woud ask. try filing the tool down some if it didn't fit right and use as much down force as possible.
Dead President
Well-Known LVC Member
i agree, the rear pistons are a b!tch, i had to take a few breaks in between each side
the pliers work a lot better than the univ tool, imo
Chad
the pliers work a lot better than the univ tool, imo
Chad
Jim Henderson
Dedicated LVC Member
Does it look like the pads are fully seated against the piston and are the back of the pads agains the caliper body? If so then that is as far as you are going to get them. Sometimes the pads are just thick enough to make it really hard to slide them over the rotor. I would guess the pad maker went over tolerance.
Or if it is just a snug fit, you need to make sure the pads are fully compressed and perfectly straight as the slide over the rotor. It only takes a tiny bit of wrong angle to make it seem impossible.
If the pad is not seated flush then you need to get the piston down deeper, I like to use a big C clamp, something like a 10 incher should do it.
Sometimes the piston just isn't going to go deeper due to corrosion in the cylinder, in that case you will need to either rebuild the caliper, fairly easy if you have the cylinder hone and parts, or just buy rebuilds, often just as cheap as doing them your self.
With the age of your car, it is a fair bet you have some corrosion unless you maintained the brakes every couple years or so.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Or if it is just a snug fit, you need to make sure the pads are fully compressed and perfectly straight as the slide over the rotor. It only takes a tiny bit of wrong angle to make it seem impossible.
If the pad is not seated flush then you need to get the piston down deeper, I like to use a big C clamp, something like a 10 incher should do it.
Sometimes the piston just isn't going to go deeper due to corrosion in the cylinder, in that case you will need to either rebuild the caliper, fairly easy if you have the cylinder hone and parts, or just buy rebuilds, often just as cheap as doing them your self.
With the age of your car, it is a fair bet you have some corrosion unless you maintained the brakes every couple years or so.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
2001LS8Sport
Dedicated LVC Member
Excellent information Jim. And if you do manage to get the pistons all the way in and there is corrosion, you will now have a leak. That's why new calipers...loaded or unloaded....are always a good investment on a brake job.
Jim Henderson
Dedicated LVC Member
Leaks can happen, so it is always worth taking a peek inside the cylinder when you have it there anyway. At least clean it out. But sometimes, if you know your brake system is pretty clean it is awful easy to just slap some new pads in and go.
Rebuilt calipers are so cheap(at least on the other cars I have worked on) it almost doesn't make sense not to replace them unless you are really saving pennies.
While you are at it, get some high temp caliper grease and lube the slides and other metal to metal sliding surfaces, just a dab. Also helps to wire brush the sliding surfaces to remove the rust. Take a good look at the caliper as it sits on the rotor and you will see where the caliper rides back and forth on the mount. Keep the grease away from pads and rotor of course.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Rebuilt calipers are so cheap(at least on the other cars I have worked on) it almost doesn't make sense not to replace them unless you are really saving pennies.
While you are at it, get some high temp caliper grease and lube the slides and other metal to metal sliding surfaces, just a dab. Also helps to wire brush the sliding surfaces to remove the rust. Take a good look at the caliper as it sits on the rotor and you will see where the caliper rides back and forth on the mount. Keep the grease away from pads and rotor of course.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
O.k Got it all back together, now the brakes are a little spongy. Pumped them quite a few times and took it around the block for a test. Even did the reverse and jam trick, still soft. I didn't open the bleeder valves or loose any fluid when the cap was off. Is this common to have to bleed them out after turning the piston in? I've never had to do that on any other veh. that I've worked on. Any ideas? :Bang
pragmatic
Dedicated LVC Member
I also had problems turning one of my rear pistons in, you need to turn hard to get it started. As to the soft pedal, mine was soft for quite a while after the brake job, it is now normal. I think it takes many applications of the rear brakes to allow the pistons to return to their normal position, that is unscrew to the proper position.
JES_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
The Gt uses the same screw in type caliper and I experienced that same no rear brake soft pedal BS when I did them the first time.
The last time I changed the pads, I only cranked the piston in about one turn past the point where I could just squeeze the caliper over the pads. Other wise you will be pumping the brakes forever to get the caliper adjusted back out.
The last time I changed the pads, I only cranked the piston in about one turn past the point where I could just squeeze the caliper over the pads. Other wise you will be pumping the brakes forever to get the caliper adjusted back out.