I was trying to do my pads today and the rear pistons will not go back in. I rented the tool and they spin but they will not go in far enough to go over the new pads. They just spin but are not going anywhere. If I get new calipers how do I go about getting the ebrake cable off the old one? Do you leave it attached to the bracket or try to pry it out of the old one? I would really like for them to just go back in but I am not having any luck.
rear caliper problems
- Thread starter 005speed
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i got them, used a hammer and hit the piston a few times must have loosened them up. Im trying to bleed the brakes but doing the standard push the pedal down and open the bleeder doesn't seem to be doing much. Do I have to do something different with this car?
Hope they work okay for you. How many miles on these calipers? Might be time for remanufactured or NEW ones? Reman Gen I, 71 bucks each at AutoZone lifetime warranty. Reman, Gen II, 92 bucks at AutoZone each Lifetime warranty. OR you can pay bigger bucks for better stuff.
If you have a lot of miles on them,they might leak after screwing the calipers all the way back in. don-ohio
^)
If you have a lot of miles on them,they might leak after screwing the calipers all the way back in. don-ohio
^)cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
I don't see that he claimed to have 'hammered them in'. I take it that he rapped them a few times to jar them a little loose and then screwed them in. As a matter of fact, I've found that a bit of jarring helps. I've been screwing the pistons back in, on occasion, since Ford started the design back in the mid 70s. My first time was on my '75 Mk IV.
KS
RigsLS
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Just because anything is possible and people have tried the most weirdest things as of late.
You are getting another person to apply pressure as you are opening the bleed, correct?
Please tell me you are not doing this job yourself!
i just hit the piston a few times with a hammer to start the retracting process. They were turning but must have been stuck and not wanting to retract and hitting them must have knocked them loose to start going back in when I started turning them again. I got the brakes bleed for some reason it just took a while to start getting fluid out of the back caliper where I started or I wasn't opening the bleeder far enough to really get the fluid going but after 4 or 5 bleeds it started working like normal.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
When I did mine I had to push hard the entire time I was screwing it in. One of the tools with the plate that screws against the backside of the caliper would be easier than the cheap square tool. I think it's best to open the bleed screw while doing this to prevent old, nasty fluid from being backflushed through the ABS system. I don't know if it will cause harm to Ford ABS but I know GM ABS does NOT like dirty old fluid pushed back through it. In any case I see no reason to chance it.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Major understatement. The correct tool is very well worth it.
I fully agree, and it is what I always do. I know that master cylinder seals are sometimes damaged by this if you don't.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
to be honest, its probably the most used harbor freight tool I own.