rear sway bar link picture guide

[rickztahone]

I just wanted to do a step by step of how i replaced the rear sway bar link's. Enjoy!

Tools:
Vice Grips
15 Wrench
WD-40
metal rod


1. what the driver's side link looks like

2. place the 15 wrench on the nut

3. place vice grips right at the end of the screw. if this screw part moves, then your vice grip is not tight enough. try moving both hands inwards at the same time to loosen nut (righty-tighty for the vice grips, lefty loosy for the wrench)

4. you can place a metal rod where i placed mine after you have loosened the nut. this will release the tension on the nut and will allow you to screw off the nut by hand. make sure someone helps you if you can't multi-task, or else that nut might come flying at your face.

5. this pic just shows when i used the metal rod to help unscrew the nut.

6. do the same with the bottom

7. if you happen to be having an extremely difficult time with the bottom one as i was due to the tip of the screw slipping, use your vice grips to grip the screw at the place shown. use some WD40 to help you out

8. new part installed

thank you for the help i received from members for getting this job done. in reality, i had to have changed these parts a long time ago but i was lazy. i guess i made this step by step to show how easy it is to change. it doesn't take long to do either. so if you've been putting it off, just order the parts and set aside an hour of your weekend to put these on.

 

[Angel12]

How did you know they were bad ?

 

[rickztahone]

check out the very first pic. the were super cracked up and were all dried up. you can visually tell they were in need of replacement.

 

[Angel12]

Yeah going to change mine there worn but the boot is intact but yeah should change mine too, sweet thanks for the write up!

 

[hite337]

i use a 1/4" drive 7mm socket and wratchet to hold the suspension shafts instead of vice grips. they just scar up the steel but if you are changing the parts it doesnt really matter much. the front links are the same way. the ball joints too. does it ride better? i need to do my rear links as well.

 

[lseguy]

great writeup but could you tell they were bad from any noise or from the ride? Was there any improvement (non-placebo) after they were replaced?

 

[FASTLLS]

The way I tell if they are bad is to try to remove the bolt.. If it spins in the socket, it is usually bad.. Doing this method, you would need it get access to a new one though..

 

[rickztahone]

Yeah going to change mine there worn but the boot is intact but yeah should change mine too, sweet thanks for the write up!

no problem

i use a 1/4" drive 7mm socket and wratchet to hold the suspension shafts instead of vice grips. they just scar up the steel but if you are changing the parts it doesnt really matter much. the front links are the same way. the ball joints too. does it ride better? i need to do my rear links as well.

you are right, and i knew that they would scar up going into it. since they are getting replaced i really didn't care. i can't tell you if it rides better since i didn't give it a test run, i'm still sick and when i finished doing:
-both rear sway bar links
-flushing coolant
-replacing hydraulic fan liquid
-replacing power steering fan liquid
-checking serpentine belt which needs replacing (need a new water pump/tensioner?((sp.)) as well)

great writeup but could you tell they were bad from any noise or from the ride? Was there any improvement (non-placebo) after they were replaced?

i didn't hear any noise, and just went of visual inspection really. again, i haven't driven it but i will report back tomorrow. btw, i had put the wrong side on because when i called Max he informed me of which was left and which was right. the way i have always figured left from right was looking straight onto the car facing engine. so it happens that the "left" Max told me was really the right. i really should have matched the parts before i installed the first one but i was really not all there today. but at the end of the day it was my fault and not Max's for not checking.

The way I tell if they are bad is to try to remove the bolt.. If it spins in the socket, it is usually bad.. Doing this method, you would need it get access to a new one though..

this is true, with a new one you would not be able to turn the bolt. at that point if it does move, you would have to replace it though

 

[Silver_LS]

I remember having to remove the links to get my Eibachs in, I used an air ratchet to get the bolts off and didn't have to hold them at all, it was only after I'd broken a 1/4 drive ratchet trying to hold the rod still while wrenching with a #15 that I tried the air ratchet.. If you have access to one, go with the AIR first. Makes life so much easier.

Just my .02 (good write up Rick)

 

[rickztahone]

I remember having to remove the links to get my Eibachs in, I used an air ratchet to get the bolts off and didn't have to hold them at all, it was only after I'd broken a 1/4 drive ratchet trying to hold the rod still while wrenching with a #15 that I tried the air ratchet.. If you have access to one, go with the AIR first. Makes life so much easier.

Just my .02 (good write up Rick)

thanks, and i agree, if i had AIR it would have been my first choice for sure.

 

[cammerfe]

Having just done the job, what are your thoughts regarding a substitution of links constructed using Heim joints for the factory hardware? Do you see any problems? And, have you replaced your rear sway bar bushings ye?. No one seems to know what size poly bushings to order.
KS