Remote start/heated seats

M

Michael55123

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I have a viper 160XV installed on my car. Unit works great, remote start my car from the 7th story in my building when my car is parked on the street. It's nice in warm inside. Trunk pup, and keyless work great, windows up and down do great to. It completley replaced my stock remote. If you install it, or have it installed, make sure you tag the key sense wire, or else you'll have to move your automatic seat yourself everytime you get int, when it was remote started. I'm currently working on a very inexpensive circuit(maybe 20$) that will automatically turn on my heated seats when it's less than a cetain temperature outside. I'm also tagging the rear defrost to turn on at less than a certain temperature, this in turn also turns on the heated mirrors, and the heated windshield wiper fluid comes on automatically at less then 40 already. I'm going to have to tag the rear defrost from the trunk, I CANNOT for the life of me figure out what wire on the HVAC harness controls the rear defrost, it almost seems like it's databus. I get a few 14v readings on the harness, and the rest are almost all .5 volts. I get 0 voltage change when i hit the rear def switch on any of the wires. I just tagged the relay in the rear fuse block. I have figured out the heated seat wiring harnesses. If anyone is interested in the colors, and what they do let me know. I can get much more specific on the setup as well if anyone would like to know. Does anyone have access to a wiring diagram, it would be SO helpful in the future. I can't seem to find one anywhere.

Mike
 
Man a remote start is something I have thought about for a while, but I would be greatly interested in this "circuit" to turn on the heated seats et. al.
 
No idea. I don't have a chiltons or haynes. I need to look though. The circuit is a really easy circuit based on a 741 op-amp, and a thermistor, maybe cost like 5-15 dollars to make, depending on where you get the parts.

Mike
 
Michael55123 said:
No idea. I don't have a chiltons or haynes. I need to look though. The circuit is a really easy circuit based on a 741 op-amp, and a thermistor, maybe cost like 5-15 dollars to make, depending on where you get the parts.

Mike
Click to expand...

The HVAC controls are on a databus.. the rear defrost output comes from the REM in the trunk.

I like your idea for the heated seats... I'm sure some of my customers would be interrested in this. I did an 04 Audi A6 the other day, the customer was hell bent on me tieing the rear defrost into the starter. I had to 5wire the defrost grid input, and use 2nd ignition as turn on.... i explained to him that the grid would turn on anytime it was remote started, and it might not be a good idea to use on warm days.... he seemed to be fine with it however.


We do carry a universal module that is both temperature, and timer activated that i could have used (supplies a ground pulse to trigger neg. start input), but we sell the module for over $100. This would be a great alternative.


BTW if you are using a valet key for transponder... check out the new crimestopper FD-TB4, FD-TB5 self learning modules.... you program them just like a key (obviously). And you don't have to give up (or make) a key. (TB4 is for 00-02, TB5 is for 03 and up)
 
I saw the module, but me and my buddy made my own "U" to bypass the ignition, using a relay off the remote start, old voice coil wire out of a sub, and a cut valet key. I can give up the valet, and speding the 10 bucks on parts, rarther than 50-90 was tempting. That module sounds nice to, but for 100 bucks, I think I'd try to make my own. The audi's are a little different than the LS's, the relay in the trunk for rear def, see's a positive pulse, as do the heated seats. If you wanted to use the 2nd status(defrogger) output to trigger it, you could just use a 87a relay to get a positive 12v pulse. I'm coming straight off the starter relay, for the remote start though. So it sends a 12v pulse just when it's actually cranking. Which works fine for my application. I think I'm going to improve my design shortly. I'm going to use a digital temperature sensor instead of a 741 op-amp, along with mounting the thermistor hidden against the windshield, so it's more effected by outside temperatures. I also thought I neat idea would be to use the stock outside temperature sensor, but when sitting still it's effected heavily by engine heat, and I don't know the resistance values of it. You definatley sound like you know what your doing, and I might try to get some input from you on other things I do. Eventaully when I get this little circuit acting just right, I'm going to put up a schematic and parts list for everyone to see, and then list what wires I tapped where. I might even make them for people if they want to pay me for parts, and like 10 bucks for my time. Anyhow, this reply has gotten long, will update with future happenings.

Mike
 
I was also thinking it would be fairly easy to add rear heated seats. You can get the elements(upper and lower) for 60 bucks from ford parts network. The big killer is the switches, maybe I could find them on another LS, or junked out. Then mount the switches on the left and right side of the rear of the console, with some VERY careful surgerey on it. Then a little decent size wire fromt he rear fuse box, a 15 A fuse, and the elements, 2 relays, and I think you'd be good to go. Let me know if you see any issues with this.

Mike
 
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