Replacing Door Check/Stop

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broncos91

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The Door Check/Stop has broke on my 01 LS. The black piece between the door frame and the door broke off. It was pretty simple removing the two Hex bolts from the door frame, but how do you remove the part from the door? I see the two bolts on the door, but how are you supposed to remove the part once you remove the bolts. Do I have to remove the door panel?

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Im not sure but i have to do the same on mine just noticed the other day, I think you have to remove the door panel and the window all the way up to access where it is located.
 
Agreed!! I think that's what you have to do.
Of not, I'd like to find out cause I need to do
Mine as well here in the near future.
 
What joegr posted looks like how to replace the gen 1 check from what I remember when I did mine a few years ago.
 
Ok. Nows my time to be of use to someone on here i guess!!

I actually just did this replacement on my drivers door about 2 months ago. PITA, but very do able with some patience and a few tools.

TAKE the LINKS advice and use a plybar (see pic for the style i used) and a LONG bar flathead screwdriver wrapped in duct tape as not to scratch the paint. use the screwdriver to get right down next to the pins and push the door pannel out(this was the safest method i came up with after breaking the first two only using the plybar to peel the door panel away from the door. and get the sockets he recommends aswell and you should be well on ur way, btw the part is about 40$ i wanna say???? wish i remembered the part number....
no offence here...that pic that joegr linked is garbage even compared to the print out i had the local dealership print me out, so grab one from there if u want b4 u go diggin in and u will have a little clearer image of what ur workin with.


The thread pertaining to how to replace a window regulator will be very usefull here in telling you how to remove the panel with out breaking the 7$ each white plastic pins that hold ur stuff together. here is the link.
Window Regulator Replacement. How-To w/ Pictures.

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=25687&highlight=Door+Handle

side note...one of the bolts that hold the window on the regulator are hidden unless u drop the window about 3 inches (front have 2bolts, rears have 1)
once u get to the loosening of the bolt that hold ur window to the regulator...make sure u have someone to palm the window on both sides n hold it up, once lose, they can slide the window up into the channel, i then took a (padded/rubber headed) clap and hooked it over the topside of the window so they could help me remove the rest of the stuff. I believe i also dropped the regulator another 5 inches(important to do here or u will keep having to reconnect the stupid clips and make adjustments as i did) to make the removal of the pannel its attached physically able to be removed from the door.

Once ur in there, im a tell ya now, them bolts didnt like comming out at first and its a tight fit up in there regaurdless of taking out all that crap.

once the window is free, losen all the remaining bolts noted in the LINK and go for figuring out how that stupid thing gets out of the door (imo it went back in the door easier than out, only hard part was making sure the window went back to the channels right, but just dont tighten ur window nuts 100% right away, do like 90% and roll it up in the jam then back down n tighten the rest of the way)


Also another side note,,,,the wire that leads from ur door lock switch to the door jam itself will have to be removed from the lock (its real easy though it kinda wiggels out if u mess with it a lil bit)

HOPE this help u out, n i wish i had taken pics while i was workin on it but the idea never crossed my mind sad to say.
If u need ne more input pm me or just reply in the thread n ill get back soon as i can.

crowbar.jpg
 
joegr said:
This is for gen II, but it may help. It looks pretty simple.

http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x13004.htm~gen~ref.htm
Click to expand...
Thank you Looks pretty simple.
Geldtron said:
Ok. Nows my time to be of use to someone on here i guess!!

I actually just did this replacement on my drivers door about 2 months ago. PITA, but very do able with some patience and a few tools.

TAKE the LINKS advice and use a plybar (see pic for the style i used) and a LONG bar flathead screwdriver wrapped in duct tape as not to scratch the paint. use the screwdriver to get right down next to the pins and push the door pannel out(this was the safest method i came up with after breaking the first two only using the plybar to peel the door panel away from the door. and get the sockets he recommends aswell and you should be well on ur way, btw the part is about 40$ i wanna say???? wish i remembered the part number....
no offence here...that pic that joegr linked is garbage even compared to the print out i had the local dealership print me out, so grab one from there if u want b4 u go diggin in and u will have a little clearer image of what ur workin with.


The thread pertaining to how to replace a window regulator will be very usefull here in telling you how to remove the panel with out breaking the 7$ each white plastic pins that hold ur stuff together. here is the link.
Window Regulator Replacement. How-To w/ Pictures.

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=25687&highlight=Door+Handle

side note...one of the bolts that hold the window on the regulator are hidden unless u drop the window about 3 inches (front have 2bolts, rears have 1)
once u get to the loosening of the bolt that hold ur window to the regulator...make sure u have someone to palm the window on both sides n hold it up, once lose, they can slide the window up into the channel, i then took a (padded/rubber headed) clap and hooked it over the topside of the window so they could help me remove the rest of the stuff. I believe i also dropped the regulator another 5 inches(important to do here or u will keep having to reconnect the stupid clips and make adjustments as i did) to make the removal of the pannel its attached physically able to be removed from the door.

Once ur in there, im a tell ya now, them bolts didnt like comming out at first and its a tight fit up in there regaurdless of taking out all that crap.

once the window is free, losen all the remaining bolts noted in the LINK and go for figuring out how that stupid thing gets out of the door (imo it went back in the door easier than out, only hard part was making sure the window went back to the channels right, but just dont tighten ur window nuts 100% right away, do like 90% and roll it up in the jam then back down n tighten the rest of the way)


Also another side note,,,,the wire that leads from ur door lock switch to the door jam itself will have to be removed from the lock (its real easy though it kinda wiggels out if u mess with it a lil bit)

HOPE this help u out, n i wish i had taken pics while i was workin on it but the idea never crossed my mind sad to say.
If u need ne more input pm me or just reply in the thread n ill get back soon as i can.
Click to expand...

confused from the link that joeger posted I would think to just remove the door panel and then to remove the speaker and get to it from there? or do you have to remove the window reg. as well?
 
I guess if you want to try and deal with going through the speaker hole to fix your door check/stop issue. GO FOR IT. Removing the speaker from ur door pannel is a well worth shot....and now that i look at the pic joger linked that is what its showing u to do.... i misinterpreted it earlier.
my door had other issues at the time concerning the door acutally opening so i wanted to take it entirely apart anyways and clean it (solved my door handle not opening the door issue with an air hose and a can of WD40 cleaned it up and got it working vs buying a new handle set)

Manoli, look at the link i posted dealing with window regulators. If you go the way i described, you do not need to remove the speaker from the metal pannel behind the sound deadening stuff ((admittedly you can prolly go the way joger posted, im just voicing my opinion on something i just did myself and telling you that i found it....not so bad in the end))

Just unplug all the wiring and the door lock wire + release window from regulator and undo all 7 brass bolts....
This WILL release the metal panel entirely and after you wiggle it out, you will be able to look and see what your doing instead of working blind and reaching up through a 5x9 speaker hole....
Not to mention gen 1 speakers are at the btm of the door (not sure where gen2 is set up) and the door check/stopper is at the top middle of the door.... seems more of a PITA to work up and around in that hole than to remove that pannel. As i stated get the door asembly pic from the dealership, it will show you the distance u need to cover if u go through the speaker hole better than that one does, the pic joegr linked makes it look like its directly to the right of the speaker whole....this is not true. (i can only verify gen1 here of course)

Honestly the white pins holding the plastic panel are the worst of the door disassemble process (IMO)... the interior metal panel is only a pain casue of releasing the window, with two ppl however and a standard hand clamp its easy as cake. (i used my brother for all of 5 min to hold the window while i released it and found a clamp)
(in my case was a dam good thing i checked it, turns out one of the clips was holding onto the window by less than 1/8 of an inch and was why the back part of my window did not like to meet the top of the channel window seal at the same moment the front reached it)

...as i said i just did this... do what ever you want to do.... remove the speaker and work through that hole...or remove the panel. EITHER WAY WORKS JUST FINE I ASSUME at this point.
I just was follwing V-8's thread on how to replace the regulator even though it was not my goal, MY GOAL was to clean the door handles and replace the door stoper. I found it a VERY doable way to get in there so that i could get the job done. I only wanted to pass on my xperience to a fellow LVC member in trouble with the same issue i had.


SO IF you decided to try my way......here are the important things to note....
1. The pannel is removed W/O acutally remvoing the regulator from the interrior metal door pannel thing (look at the pics in the link to the regulator fix). i figured it would be easier to remove two window bolts and the 7 brass 7/16" bolts, plus the wire on the door lock (its really super easy to do n goes back together easily)
2. the window must be released from the regulator b4 doing so, and the regulator must be drooped about 3-5 inches below the window in order to remove the metal pannel from the door (a little tricky considering you have to grab the interior door panel and hook up the window controls to do such, but again the brother came in handy for about 5min)
3. and if your going to go this route, you really dont have to remove the lock cable,,,, you can choose to prop the pannel up against the door as you work on the door stop...but i wanted to be on the safe side and not risk it falling over while i was working....so i did remove it and the pannel was released from the door entirely allowing me all the room i needed to work and clean on the interior of my door.
4. all together took me about n hour, 2 1/2 hrs considering i took apart the rear door and ended up fixing the broken clip on the rear window simply by putting a bolt wrapped in electrical tape through the existing hole of what ever used to hold the rear window to the clip and now that works too.
 
JB Weld is pretty good, but I suspect that replacement is the better option.
 
This door check was the very first thing I replaced on my 01 (bought it broken like that), overall easy process but yeah, to get to the hardware at the door one has to remove the panel & speaker.
 
Just replaced the front driver's door arm check on my 2006 Lincoln Ls. Half an hour job and a very straightforward procedure as joegr suggested. Remove the door panel, remove the speaker, remove the arm check from the speakers opening, replace everything and Bob's your uncle. Be sure to have 8mm, 10mm, and 6 mm sockets and a 1/4 ratchet and some extensions, and a Phillips screwdriver or you will have a hard time wrestling out the assembly. Good luck.
 
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