luccianoduckman
LVC Member
Is there a procedure posted here for replacing the strut-rod-to-arm bushings?
Any tips would be most appreciated.
Thanks!
Any tips would be most appreciated.
Thanks!
replacing the strut rod to arm bushings
- Thread starter luccianoduckman
- Start date
luccianoduckman
LVC Member
forgot to mention....
I just got finished replacing the upper and lower control arms, and tie rod ends, and brake master cylinder (had to remove it to get to the driver side upper control arm). After doing the work, I had the car aligned.
Now when I hit the brake hard, the steering wheel turns to the left, and takes the rest of the car with it. After I take my foot off the brake, the steering goes back straight. It didn't do this before.
One stupid thing I did: I couldn't get the nut to tighten on the lower ball joint on the driver's side. The stud just kept on spinning. So I stuck a pry bar between the spindle (where the ball joint stud goes through) and the strut rod, and pushed like crazy, thus binding the stud in the ball joint, and I could successfully torque the ball joint nut.
Yeah, I feel stupid now. I think I damaged the strut rod bushing....I think.
What else could cause this steering problem, if not the bushing? I don't think the brakes are a problem because they have been working fine, and pads are wearing evenly, etc. This just started happening since I finished replacing all the other suspension crap.
I just got finished replacing the upper and lower control arms, and tie rod ends, and brake master cylinder (had to remove it to get to the driver side upper control arm). After doing the work, I had the car aligned.
Now when I hit the brake hard, the steering wheel turns to the left, and takes the rest of the car with it. After I take my foot off the brake, the steering goes back straight. It didn't do this before.
One stupid thing I did: I couldn't get the nut to tighten on the lower ball joint on the driver's side. The stud just kept on spinning. So I stuck a pry bar between the spindle (where the ball joint stud goes through) and the strut rod, and pushed like crazy, thus binding the stud in the ball joint, and I could successfully torque the ball joint nut.
Yeah, I feel stupid now. I think I damaged the strut rod bushing....I think.
What else could cause this steering problem, if not the bushing? I don't think the brakes are a problem because they have been working fine, and pads are wearing evenly, etc. This just started happening since I finished replacing all the other suspension crap.
One of two things. Either your strut rod bushing at the frame is so destroyed that there's pretty much nothing left allowing massive movement or your lower control arm is not adjusted correctly at the frame for alignment.
You should be able to tell just by looking at it if the strut rod bushings are wiped out. It'll be fairly obvious such as the cup plates that sit up against it being tweaked and the thing dry rotted to hell. If it's not I'd look at the concentric washer adjustment on the lower control arm. I don't know about anyone else but for me it is extremely difficult to find a shop that understands how to align this car. They all think you can only adjust toe and steering wheel position using the tie rods. Hopefully you remember how exactly you put the lower control arms on, take a look, did the alignment shop even touch the adjustment plates? Even if they did they probably did it wrong.
You should be able to tell just by looking at it if the strut rod bushings are wiped out. It'll be fairly obvious such as the cup plates that sit up against it being tweaked and the thing dry rotted to hell. If it's not I'd look at the concentric washer adjustment on the lower control arm. I don't know about anyone else but for me it is extremely difficult to find a shop that understands how to align this car. They all think you can only adjust toe and steering wheel position using the tie rods. Hopefully you remember how exactly you put the lower control arms on, take a look, did the alignment shop even touch the adjustment plates? Even if they did they probably did it wrong.
luccianoduckman
LVC Member
So this thing seems to be inconsistent. The pull to the left only happens if I'm driving over 50mph, and only when I hit the brakes. But even then it's inconsistent. I was getting off the freeway today on a straight off ramp going 70mph, and I hit the brakes and the dang thing didn't pull. While I was going straight down the freeway I hit the brakes a few times and sometimes it would pull to the left, sometimes it wouldn't. I'm wondering at this point if it is related to the brakes. Maybe when the brakes are hotter it pulls more. Don't know.
Regarding the alignment, here are the particulars:
BEFORE ALIGNMENT:
Left Front:
toe: -1.27
cam: -0.5
caster: +3.5
===
Right Front:
toe: +0.43
cam: -0.3
caster: +6.0
===
Left Rear:
toe: +0.05
cam: -0.8
====
Right Rear:
toe: -0.1
cam: -0.6
Total toe: -0.05
Thrust angle: +0.08
=================
AFTER ALIGNMENT:
Left Front:
toe: +0.15
cam: -0.7
caster: +3.5
=====
Right Front:
toe: +0.14
cam: -0.5
caster: +6.0
=====
Left Rear:
toe: +0.04
cam: -0.9
=====
Right Rear:
toe: -0.08
cam: -0.8
================
Total toe: -0.04
Thrist angle: +0.06
=======
According to their computer the only thing that's out of range now is the left front caster. He said that the car may pull slightly left. But the car seems to track straight as I'm driving down the road. The only time it pulls left is when I hit the brake on the freeway, and even that's inconsistent. But when it pulls, it's very obvious.
Regarding my earlier post, I'm afraid I may have damaged the strut rod bushing when I used the pry bar to torque the ball joint nut. But the bushing and washers don't look damaged or malformed. They are the original bushings, and the car has 86k miles.
Regarding the alignment, here are the particulars:
BEFORE ALIGNMENT:
Left Front:
toe: -1.27
cam: -0.5
caster: +3.5
===
Right Front:
toe: +0.43
cam: -0.3
caster: +6.0
===
Left Rear:
toe: +0.05
cam: -0.8
====
Right Rear:
toe: -0.1
cam: -0.6
Total toe: -0.05
Thrust angle: +0.08
=================
AFTER ALIGNMENT:
Left Front:
toe: +0.15
cam: -0.7
caster: +3.5
=====
Right Front:
toe: +0.14
cam: -0.5
caster: +6.0
=====
Left Rear:
toe: +0.04
cam: -0.9
=====
Right Rear:
toe: -0.08
cam: -0.8
================
Total toe: -0.04
Thrist angle: +0.06
=======
According to their computer the only thing that's out of range now is the left front caster. He said that the car may pull slightly left. But the car seems to track straight as I'm driving down the road. The only time it pulls left is when I hit the brake on the freeway, and even that's inconsistent. But when it pulls, it's very obvious.
Regarding my earlier post, I'm afraid I may have damaged the strut rod bushing when I used the pry bar to torque the ball joint nut. But the bushing and washers don't look damaged or malformed. They are the original bushings, and the car has 86k miles.
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
i usually see this pull under braking (has happened twice to me) when the lower ball joints are bad. but, it was consistent.
another possibility is a bad brake caliper or line, some kind of uneven braking.
i have blown out two sets of frame side strut rod bushings, and did not experience a pull under braking.
another possibility is a bad brake caliper or line, some kind of uneven braking.
i have blown out two sets of frame side strut rod bushings, and did not experience a pull under braking.
luccianoduckman
LVC Member
If it's related to braking, I'm thinking it's that the right front caliper is not grabbing consistently. I'm thinking I can try replacing 1 caliper at a time, starting with the right front (plus the rubber brake line). Does that make sense? Normally I'd replace calipers in pairs, but I've already spent so much $$ on this car that I want to proceed sparingly.
I've just finished replacing the upper and lower control arms and tie rod ends. I used MOOG parts (which I now know was a mistake) but I'm at least hoping that I didn't get a defective ball joint!
I've just finished replacing the upper and lower control arms and tie rod ends. I used MOOG parts (which I now know was a mistake) but I'm at least hoping that I didn't get a defective ball joint!
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
i like MOOG, generally speaking. not quite what they used to be though.
i would start with the brake lines.
they go bad and collapse internally.
i just replaced a rear recently because i got no fluid when trying to bleed the brakes.
i would start with the brake lines.
they go bad and collapse internally.
i just replaced a rear recently because i got no fluid when trying to bleed the brakes.
luccianoduckman
LVC Member
Can out of range caster cause a pull when braking?