Rust?!

m1i2k9e

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Hey guys, I have a 2001 LS8 (silver if that matters) and noticed that around the rear passenger side wheelwell there seems to be a very tiny amount of rust that is actually beginging to form. Has anyone experienced this and if so does warrenty cover it? I bought the car used however i have a 4 year 48,000 mile extended coverage on the car. I don't know what to do! Can anyone help with this?
 
m1i2k9e said:
Hey guys, I have a 2001 LS8 (silver if that matters) and noticed that around the rear passenger side wheelwell there seems to be a very tiny amount of rust that is actually beginging to form. Has anyone experienced this and if so does warrenty cover it? I bought the car used however i have a 4 year 48,000 mile extended coverage on the car. I don't know what to do! Can anyone help with this?
Post a picture of the tiny amount of rust you speak of. It could very well be rail dust......brake dust.......anything that gets embedded into your paint. If you show me a picture, I will tell you if there is anything you can do for it. On a lot of silver, white, or light colored car you can really notice little specks of rust covering the car around the lowers and wheel wells. This is a common problem for all cars but there is a solution. Get the pic and I'll try to help you out more. If you can't get the pic, go to a dealership or parts store and ask for their clay bar. It will eliminate these rust specks.
 
You can often (if you're good and careful with high rpm wheels) do a light coat of heavier grit 3m compound and wheel the paint out a bit, and follow it with an egg carton foam pad with some polish.

If you're doing any edges, make sure the wheel is spinning off the edge, not toward it, and for any decklids, put pads under it so it raises it up off the level of the back lines of the car, same goes for the hood on the front fenders.

P.S If you even wanted to take it further, and i only recommend this if you've done it is maybe take an 1500 wet/dry sand paper, soak it and hit the areas lightly, and take out some orange peel if your car has it, follow the 1500 up with some 3000 wet/dry soaked sand paper over the 1500 marks, then just do the steps above with heavier grit compound to bring the paint back, then polish with egg carton foam pad on the wheel for stunning results.

Just be careful with all of it and go slow, i love my car so i'll eat up 4 hours sanding down giving spots, or re-clearing a section to sand down to get to look exactly as it should, very wet and shiney looking, yet dry and orange peel free.

Probably a bit much for this particular thread, just FYI kinda stuff =)


-DIDJI
 
didjital| said:
Probably a bit much for this particular thread, just FYI kinda stuff =)
-DIDJI

Good tips! I haven't had the guts to do that work yet. When you clear certain areas, do you always use a spray gun? I have a spray gun and have never even used it. I would probably destroy my garage. :) You should have seen what my garage looked like after spending a little time with a cutting torch! WHOA!

I have used spray bombs to patch areas before, and it didn't come out TOO bad, but nothing I would call great.
 
lsbit said:
Good tips! I haven't had the guts to do that work yet. When you clear certain areas, do you always use a spray gun? I have a spray gun and have never even used it. I would probably destroy my garage. :) You should have seen what my garage looked like after spending a little time with a cutting torch! WHOA!

I have used spray bombs to patch areas before, and it didn't come out TOO bad, but nothing I would call great.

I'd imagine it was suit heavn with nice confetti strings of black everywhere from the torches? hehe ..

I actually have a few types of gravity feed systems for spraying, i optionally clean the area I'm working with very well, if its cleared on it stays on, unless you sand it out, and sanding small bugs and flys out isn't fun if it happens :D So keep the area clean, run a hose and wet the entire floor so if you spray down nothing kicks up, the floor will be wet and hold down all loose particles.

Otherwise * and this is a GREAT paint chip technique.

1.) Find the area you wish to fix the chip in, (provided chip is atleast entire piece of colored paint missing).

2.) Take a small horse hair detailing brush and dab your exact paint on the tip, and simply just hold the brush over the chip or dab it ONCE if its on a verticle piece where you can't "drop" the paint into it. Do this ONCE and let it dry, depending how deep the chip is drop it again in a few hours until it apperas its about even .

3.) Take some clear coat and hardening catalyst (from your local auto paint store) and mix some and put it in a 2 liter, or 20oz bottle cap from a coke bottle. Simply layer and dab the clear on the scratch until it is above the normal paint (as if it were a bump)

MAKE SURE YOU WAIT A GOOD 3 or 4 HOURS FOR THE CLEAR TO DRY!!!
If you can lightly setup a heat source for it, don't sand to early, if anything wait over night in a dry environment, that isn't damp. Outside or in a Garage depending your location/climate.

Finally, take some 3000 grain wet/dry sand paper, soak it very well in warm soapy water (auto soap not dish soap!!) and lightly knock it down flat in that area and a little around it, so when its buffed out it all buffs evenly on the chip and just around it so it blends.

I dont recommend a wheel for getting the clear to shine, just rub hard with the same heavy grit 3m compound, follow it with a polish and you'll find that chip completely disappear and shines just as nice as the rest of the car.

The object is build the base of paint up, then clear over the normal paint so its bumpy, knock it down to even, and buff clean.

-DIDJI
 
didjital| said:
I'd imagine it was suit heavn with nice confetti strings of black everywhere from the torches? hehe ..

You got it! Thanks for the extra tips too.
 

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