Sct livelink data logging help....

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jjasek2003

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I am trying to data log my 2002 lincoln ls with sct livelink but im not too sure on what pids to choose. Does any one have a configuration file i could download or any info on the pids i should use. Trying to data log for nitous.
 
How much nitrous? Hopefully you're using a progressive controller. Wet system only.

fuel pump duty cycle is most important. If the pump is stock and is old, I'd be nervous to let it get to 90% duty cycle at WOT (shows up as .45) Stay at or below 100 shot if its stock pump.

Its been a while, but some others that come to mind are:
fuel pressure
air fuel ratio
knock sensor
cylinder head temp

installing wideband O2 is preferable
 
Im spraying 100 shot, been running it for awhile now here and there. Its a dry system and has been tuned for it, just wanted to do some data logging but just not sure on pids because there are so many.
 
so you're injecting the N2O before the MAF? yikes

nothing like rolling the dice every time you press the button
 
I'm guessing the nitrous is injected after the last bend in the intake, before the throttle body.

What is the overhead on those injectors since it sounds like they're stock, are they at the hairy edge of capacity at 40% more flow?
 
Its injected before maf. Not sure i know fuel pump duty cycle is around .40-.42 i want to upgrade them soon tho, but not sure on what injectors will work, 02lincls what are you running?
 
Mine's wet so its stock injectors with a nitrous solenoid and a fuel solenoid injecting before throttle body. I modified the pump basket and put in a ford GT pump so that I had some overhead at 125 shot. The car is essentially blind to the nitrous so the only tuning is for timing pulling at various RPM ranges. I also went wet system because the LS is a returnless fuel system.

Your A/F ratio is ideal. If your pump is new, you're likely okay (the number means the pump is at 84% duty cycle). You may want a fuel pressure shutoff switch at minimum to kill the nitrous if something goes wrong on fuel delivery. Your spray location is correct for dry system.
 
Have never bothered with a dyno. I suspect its running on the rich side when nitrous is flowing which is fine. I did take it to the track back when it was 100 shot. It had 245 all seasons that spun through first and part of second despite having the controller kick the nitrous on at only 50% and ramp it to full in 2 seconds. It would shut the nitrous off just before redline, so I could shift under reduced load, and then re-ramp it. So while being on the super safe side, it still managed a 13.7 @ 100.8 mph. The guy that helped talk me through my install did dyno and got 325hp and 340 tq.
After the fuel pump work, and 285's out back, I'm guessing it might sneak a 13.1 or even a very high 12 second run, but I have not been so eager to go to the track with this many miles. I suspect now its 350+ rwhp but the torque is much more significant improvement. Its likely 375+ ft-lbs rwtq (richer trades HP for Tq). Better traction, while letting you ramp the shot faster and increase overall area under the power curve, beats the driveline up more.
 
THAT'S RESPECTABLE. AS WE SPEAK IM INSTALLING A RPM WINDOW SWITCH TO REPLACE MY WOT SWITCH. GONNA ACTIVATE AT 3000RPMS AND SHUT OFF AROUND 6000RPMS BEFORE THE GEARS SHIFT. THEN MAYBE IN A COUPLE WEEKS TAKE IT TO THE DYNO TO SEE WHAT ITS MAKING. WITH THE NITROUS TUNE 100SHOT, CAI, CUSTOM 2.5" CATBACK X-PIPE TO PYPES M80s.
 
jjasek2003 said:
THAT'S RESPECTABLE. AS WE SPEAK IM INSTALLING A RPM WINDOW SWITCH TO REPLACE MY WOT SWITCH. GONNA ACTIVATE AT 3000RPMS AND SHUT OFF AROUND 6000RPMS BEFORE THE GEARS SHIFT. THEN MAYBE IN A COUPLE WEEKS TAKE IT TO THE DYNO TO SEE WHAT ITS MAKING. WITH THE NITROUS TUNE 100SHOT, CAI, CUSTOM 2.5" CATBACK X-PIPE TO PYPES M80s.
Click to expand...

The real damage will be the full 100HP slamming on at 3000 rpms. The progressive controller softens the blow. I have mine come on 50% at 2500 RPM. This also makes you faster because the throttle motion is smoother and you're much less likely to break the tires free... aka, be slow. Best money spent (I passed on a remote bottle opener and bottle heater but did get a heater eventually).
Try this instead http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nos-15974nos/overview/


 
02lincls said:
the real damage will be the full 100hp slamming on at 3000 rpms. The progressive controller softens the blow. I have mine come on 50% at 2500 rpm. This also makes you faster because the throttle motion is smoother and you're much less likely to break the tires free... Aka, be slow. Best money spent (i passed on a remote bottle opener and bottle heater but did get a heater eventually).
Try this instead http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nos-15974nos/overview/
Click to expand...

cool thanks for the info ill look into it.
 
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